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MG MGF Technical - F cambelt change

I would like to know the part number of the cam belt required for the F 1.8 MPI. A few questions: most of the cars require a cambelt to be replaced around the 100.000k. Why so early in the F?. Any other belt brand better than Roverīs that may last longer? Thanks. Charles
Charles Pointer

Don't risk it - change at 60,000 miles or five years which ever come first - the consequences if you do not are just horrendous!
Ted Newman

Some Ford belts are scheduled for replacement at around the 60k mark. I'm sure that is true of many other makes as well. It is also a time replacement as well - 5 years isn't that early.
JohnP

My Mazda 323F required the cam changing at 60K miles. It was quite straightforward as a DIY job. I see that the K series requires the use of special tools to lock the flywheel and camshafts....On my 323 and a 626 all I had to do was to remove the spark plugs and line up marks on the flywheel and camshafts, and then slide off the old belt and replace it with a new one. Re-ajust the tensioner and that was it.

Anyone know why the K needs the special tools?

GrahamH

I know I will get flamed for this,but canīt resist:
Because it is British of course !
MG-Fan.

I have an F with less than 15000km but is 58mths old, the belt will be changed before it gets to 5 years old. My VVC that I use as daily transport and club events get's changed at 80,000km or every 4 years what ever comes first. I have seen the results of to many belts that break when they go over the mileage or age limit.
Andrew Regens

Graham, you could probably replace the cam belt using exactly the same way as you describe on a K - but it is considerably easier to lock everything in a set position first, and then simply take on belt off, put the new belt on and apply the tensioner... easy peasy.

The tricky bit is access - and you can thank the engine position (middle of the car) for that!
Rob Bell

Changing cambelt on the K is more complicated because you cannot fit the new belt without removing the alternator pulley (and, consequently, the crank pulley bolt).
BTW, there are 3 different cambelts for the K16, it depends on the cambelt tensioner type and pulley width.
Carlo

So, the part number for the belt is...?

Reading the workshop manual I come to the following conclusion, right or wrong?

I recon this job could be done with the car flat on the ground using a jack to support the engine.

You need tool 18G1742 and 18G1570. You need to remove the acess cover, one engine support (therfore the jack), alternator belt and pulley, the two cam belt covers, and the starter motor.

No other part needs to be replaced in conjunction, but the manual tensioner (which i have) needs to be reset.

Any other particular pitfalls with this as a DIY?

Cheers
O
O Sander

The cam locking tool is also available from the Draper tool catalogue - and probably cheaper too, than buying from X Part. :o)
Rob Bell

Belt p/n depends on ...
- VVC or MPI
- make year of the engine

For MPI, usually early until ??? have the belt for manual tensioner.
Newer with automatic tensioner have another.
The difference is the width. The old most frequent used is 23mm, the new for later is 26mm.
I sourced mine for MPI from an online shop and had to select the part *valid for K-Engine non VVC until MY1998*. This year is wrong. Manual tensioners got installed further on, but I don't know until when.

Find some ideas on the matter here.
http://www.mgfcar.de/k_engine/cambelt_mpi.htm
NO INSTRUCTIONS, just a collection to prepare my own works in next week.
[yes it will come true, including water pump] :)

Tool 18G1570 is most important.
18G1742 to block the crank can get substituted with several options. The archives are full with recommendations according to applicable tools or actions.

Branko had made his very own DIY flywheel locking tool @ http://www.mgfcar.de/gearbox/fig-02.jpg
Dieter

Thanks Dieter.

The tool I made was used to hold the flywheel when I had the gearbox seperated from the engine.

I'm not sure if it can be used in this case.
There are however other tools to lock the flywheel from the opening when you remove the starter motor.

As already stated above, Tool #18G1742 is shown in your web page (Link in previous post above from)


It may be helpful if anyone has the dimensions of this tool as it looks easy and inexpensive to make.

Cheers,
Branko.
Branko


Hi all,
did this work on my VVC last winter. The car was still on stands with the wheels barely touching the ground. Removal of the right rear wheel and the engine cover was needed for acess.
If one has compressed air and an airtool with minimum 200Nm torque there is no need to remove the starter or fix the locking tool where the starter is.
This makes things much more easy..
Space is very limited so appropriate good tools are needed. No "soft" Allen key for the tensioner!! Loosen and set apart the coolant reservoair gives space needed. Change the cambolts at the same time.
When comparing the main belt (Rover) with the one from Piper it is seen that the later is much more "heavy duty".
If Sander contacts me a camlock tool is available for loan.
/Carl.
Carl

Get it changed!

My F is approaching 10 yrs old!!
:ŽO

So I suppose I'll be looking at another cam belt change soon!
it's only done 51 K miles!
:Ž(

The wife's Fiat on the otherhand is 7 yrs old and still on it's original belt

82K miles up it was due for a change at 80k
BUT at approaching Ģ1400 for the belt change
IT AINT WORTH IT,
The car's value is about that!

So what do you do?
....Answer one of two things
1. just leave it until it goes ping! could be tomorrow
could be at 140,000 miles
2. Spend a long weekend or two on some serious DIY engine out surgery, replacing water pump and clutch at the same time!

hmmmmmmmm
any suggestions?

Neil

3. Change the cam belt tensioner

4. Fit PRT thermostat

5. consider oil/water cooler

6. Change the underbody coolant pipes and, more than likely, the radiator as well.
Rob Bell

Nothing to add but sources.

I'm not in connection with this seller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4550314195
Price seams not bad and this items are applicable for MPI engine (small cam belt 23mm).

The cam belt change at my MGf will happen on next Monday/Tuesday (if by boss lets me go for hols)
I found a small Garage, keen on K-Engine works and the guy has a big impact airtool :)))
So no need for the starter removal and requirement for the _Branko-Tool_ or 18G1742

Included works:
- cam belt
- tensioner
- MS engine Live saver bolts to cam wheels (even I have only an mpi)
- Water pump
- coolant swap to OAT (after flush through the head jiggle valve with water hose connected)
Glysantin Alu Protect Premium/G 30 *purple* coloured
http://www.basf.de/basf/html/d/produkte/gebiete/glysanti/produkte/g30.htm

- thermostat 82° with jiggle valve (mine's broken since 8k km's) ;-)

Carl, I didn't find a Pipe T-Joint to get the Biltema Remote Thermostat in to the front. So this mod delays _again_. Err, and I forgot to buy the underbody aluminum pipes.

Anything to add ?

>6 Radiator
Might be interesting to see for Tony's new _big_ uprated MS radiator.
http://www.apttony.co.uk/Servicing/Radiator.html
Dieter

This thread was discussed between 17/05/2005 and 18/05/2005

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