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MG MGF Technical - From bad to worse ;-(

Hi, everyone,

A couple of weeks ago, I posted re: a split drop link. As part of that post, I mentioned that I was having trouble removing the f/o/s locknut (having sheared the little bars out of the adapter).

Unfortunately, things have gotten marginally worse: the locknut has now sheared halfway along it's length and there's half a locknut still holding the wheel on! In addition, through a combination of power tools, big hammers and not-unwarranted frustration, the drive flange bolt is looking a little under the weather ;-(

I don't mind forking out for a new drive flange, but there's the whole chicken and egg thing happening: can't remove the flange without removing the wheel! Argh!

Thanks again,
Col

[Rob, I've done the drop link, complete with pics, so I'll do up some more words and mail 'em onto you. BTW, turns out handling is noticably better with a front ARB!]
Colin McIlwaine

Obviously, I meant to say... "Any ideas, please?" Duh.
Colin McIlwaine

Col, drill down the side of the remaining locknut with a cobolt drill untill it is weak enough to use a small cold chisel to remove it, the damaged stud can be knocked out and replaced without having to change the drive flange. HTH.
mike

Thanks Colin - have put your first instalment on the site already: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/suspension/ARB_bush_replacement.htm

Sorry to hear about the nightmare you're having at the moment - what a PITA! :o(
Rob Bell

@Mike, I assumed the studs were intergal parts, you *are* the master ;-)

So, assuming I drill the locknut off and get the wheel off, I can thump the stud back through the flange, right? Trusty 5lb lump hammer to the rescue again, huh? And I could get a new stud...?

@Rob, nice one, a definite Warhol moment! Hopefully email tomorrow, work permitting ;-(
Colin McIlwaine

Yeah, just knock out the stud rearwards (!) make sure you rotate the flange so they isn't anything at the rear to prevent it coming out. You can buy a new stud, if you have problems let me know as we have some.
HTH Mike.
mike

Just a word of advice re belting out wheel hub studs,

Don't just go at it with brute force as belting it out can damage the bearings that are behind the hub.

You could use a more gentle approach by using a puller of some sort.

If you choose to belt it out, then place a very, very heavy piece of steal block near area behind the stud. This heavy block will absorb most of the impact from the hammer instead of it being transmitted to the bearings.

Branko

There is a bit of an art to getting the new stud in too.... Ideally you should remove the flange from the hub but this is a bit of a sod to do. Simply tapping it a stud in from the back whilst insitu is not really possible. I took the approach of pressing the stud in place with a vice. Place a large socket over one side of the hole to allow the stud to press through and then press the stud through the hole with a vice (or similar device).... Good luck..
Tim
tim woolcott

Mike seems to have the right technique for stud removal. Guess he's done it a fair few times.
JohnP

Place the stud thru the hole, pack with a few washers, put on a nut and tighten the nut. Easy
Geoff F.
G. Farthing

The studs come out fairly easy, so i wouldn't worry about bearing damage - also my vote goes for pulling back in with a nut, if you have no washers then I find that the wheel is almost exactly the right thickness for some reason ;-)
Will Munns

LOL Will!
Rob Bell

Ah!! But then I would have to take the wheel off again to ensure that the stud is seated correctly.
Geoff F.
G. Farthing

True, but as long as you do the other nuts up first you know that the stud will be pulled up in exactly the right position, and at exatly the right angle (the seat on the wheel will make sure of this)
Will Munns

Thanks everyone... I nearly died when I saw the replies had jumped from 5ish to 14! Thought I was after saying something really daft ;-o

I'll be having a bash - no pun intended - at this at the weekend.

In other news, Dublin was hit quite badly with snow last night... I had to get tractor-pulled this morning after a slow navigation around an already ditched Corolla turned into a 180 degree spin across the road into the opposite ditch. No cosmetic damage... and I'm still working up the courage to look underneath ;-(

Col
Colin McIlwaine

Gentlemen,

Job done!

Mike, the cobolt drill bits were a godsend (though they did eventually give up their life for the cause!)

Branko/Will, I thought I'd go for the old rotational thumping (as per removing discs), but as it turned out (ta, Will), the stud popped on the first (gentle) tap.

Tim, the vice trick worked a treat, nice one!

Rob, will email pics and words today (Monday), thought it better to wait until I could write up some words on sheared locknut removal as well.

Thanks again, everyone,
Col
Colin McIlwaine

Col, glad you are back up and running.

We all look forward to next weeks thrilling tale of woe - while secretly hoping there isn't one.
JohnP

Phew! Good result Col - and look forward to seeing the pix when you get a chance to send them :o)
Rob Bell

LOL, John! Oddly, *I* am kinda hoping for something else to fall off or die or seize or stop working. Keeps me out of the pub on a Sunday afternoon! You've really gotta love the car, though...

Rob, ding! you have mail (@hotmail).

Col
Colin McIlwaine

This thread was discussed between 22/02/2005 and 28/02/2005

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