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MG MGF Technical - Front Disk Removal

I am in process of changing my front brake disks, I have removed the calipers and the two cross head screws that retain the disk to the hub, but the disk will not come free. I have tried a puller, squirted plenty of anti-seize fluid around the studs and centre spigot, given it a clout with a hammer etc in an attempt to budge it

The workshop manual says remove the cross heads screws and remove the disk, sounds simple!

Is this reluctance to come free normal? am I missing something? Is there a special technique required?

Your help and advice would be welcome as I do not want to break anything by using excess force.
A J Duthie

Special technique required? Big hammer, rotate disc 90-180 degrees between clouts, and apply blind ignorance and excessive force.

Keep at it!
Rob Bell

Did my rear ones today and now almost minus one knuckle Ouch!!not much room to swing lump hammer but it eventualy came off after about 10 minutes (which seemrd like an hour)of solid bashing and turning, Dave
DC Morris T6 DCM

Ten minutes, that's an easy one.
I've completed two cars now. I broke a ten ton hydraulic ram. Finally after buying a new ram, and being BRUTAL with a very large hammer at the same time as applying the ram the last disk shifted. Ridiculous force is required when they have really rusted on. Must be the west country air. Anyway if the bearing life isn't shortened I'll be amazed.
Ken Waring

I trust that you guys have sourced your replacement wheel bearings. Every hammer impact is a dent in the bearing track/s which will sooner or later result in bearing failure.
Geoff F
G. Farthing

Thanks Geoff ;-( that's a lot of dents then oh! the joys of owning an F :-)

DC Morris T6 DCM

Yup it's the only way to go

Bash and turn bash and turn

Neil

Thanks for all your help.

After an overnight soak with some penetrating oil and some progressive thumps with a lump hammer aiming between the calliper attachment lugs I sensed that the disks were comming away after the first few thumps, but as you said you need to keep rotating and thumping all the way as the engagement is for about 5mm. The interferance I believe was caused by frettage corrosion due to miniscule movements between the disk and hub spigot where the 'cocoa' dusk produced occupies five times the volume of the parent metal often leads to siezure of this kind.

The interfacing flanges of the disk and hub were completely free of corrossion - the car is a Y-reg.

By the way, the technical term for indenting the bearing races and rollers is called Brinelling and is a condition that can ensue when the bearing is static and endures impacting forces.
A J Duthie

There is 'Brinelling' and also 'Impact Damage' (Dents) due to physical mechanics (??) abuse (hitting with a lump hammer).
The better way of removing the discs is to either beg/borrow/steal an adequate hydraulic puller or pull the complete hub and take it to your local engine shop for them to remove it under a hydraulic press.
Removing the hub may be a bigger job however if you use 'the Agricultural Engineers Method ' then next week/month/year you will still need to remove the hub to replace the bearings.
If you are not suitably qualified and/or do not have adequate tools, then give the lob to someone else. It may cost more today but will be cheaper tomorrow.
Geoff F.
Geoff F.
G. Farthing

I am sure that beats tempting them off using a pair of Felicty Kendal's under garments Geoff... ;o)

But good point well made.
Rob Bell

<suitably qualified > 15 to 17 stone.
<adequate tools> a larger hammer.
Half the fun is DIY triumph the other half is complaining about it. Oh I forgot the fun driving the car.
Ken Waring

Ooh Lordy lordy I've got some of Felicity Kendal's underwear and it really needs a good wash!

It's a combination of subtlety and extreme violence!

Neil

>Anyway if the bearing life isn't shortened I'll be amazed.

Bearings live an incredibly long time if you don't drive the car cos the brakes don't work ;-).


I would be very suprised if any garage would use a press when they could use a hammer with all the work of stripping the hub off the car. Also they don't care if you need a new bearing in a year.
Will Munns

Will,
I would be very surprised if you or I used a garage that did not have an 'adequate hydraulic puller'.
Only DIY if it is 'Safe' and 'Cost Effecive'.
Damaging a Bearing which subsequently fails is neither.
Geoff F.
G. Farthing

This thread was discussed between 14/12/2005 and 15/12/2005

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