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MG MGF Technical - Head Gasket Replacement - On a budget

Morning all.

Finally getting round to having a go at the head gasket replacement on my VVC and am ordering some bits up. From a previous post I've came up with a shopping list :

New HG - 25
Cam belts
10 new bolts - 26
Cam belt tensioner
Water Pump - 20
oil - 17
coolant - 12

Belt kit with tensioner - 62

I did consider the MLS gasket, but considering the original lasted 13years I figure the original maybe wasn't that bad after all.

First off, have I missed out any essential bits or tools? I have a jack and axle stands, torque wrenches and a decent 1/2 inch socket set.
Leigh Reid

I found "hex "sockets and a set of ratchet spanners very useful also the cam and flywheel locks. Plus I would certainly go for the MLS gasket.
jb kaye

You will find 1/4 and 3/8 in drive 12 point sockets more useful than 1/2 in the confined space.
If the car is pre March 2001 and the gasket has not been changed before then replace the plastic dowels with steel.
Geoff F.
Geoff Farthing

Thanks guys,

Someone else mentioned ratchet spanners, I'll pick up a set, and a 1/4 set. I have a 3/8 already, and a set of hex / security type sockets.

Car is 98 and AFAIK 1st HGF so will get the steel dowels.

Thanks!
Leigh Reid

Go on yer'sel Leigh!
Sam Murray

Hey Leigh!

If you get your motor running soon, why not come up to the Aberdeen MGOC event at Drum Castle on Sunday the 11th August?

It would be great to catch up with you.

Sam
Sam Murray

Sam, is that in 2014?!!
Leigh Reid

Now now.
Sam Murray

I found a set (1/4,3/8,1/2) of wobble extension bars very useful under the inlet manifold. Set 9 on ebay, top quality A1 Plant sales. Flywheel locking tool, home made cheap and easy. Didn't remove the starter just the cover plate. Big braker bar or impact wrench.
That coolant price is cheap, what is it? Best I could find was GM OAT 5 liters £18.
Ken Waring

It's blue stuff!
Leigh Reid

Leigh - make sure get the correct OAT coolant, otherwise there WILL be tears.
Sam Murray

Sam, do you mean that some OAT can attack the elastomer in the original head gasket.
Ken Waring

Over the past ten years, my MG and Rover mad son and I have replaced the CHG on about ten K-Series cars, including three VVCs. Mostly family cars but a few cars owned by friends and relatives.

In each case we have used the MLS ( Multi-Later-Steel ) gasket and it's head saver shim. It is very similar in construction to the "Klinger" MLS gaskets used by Rover on their turbocharged T-Series engines as fitted to the Rover 620ti.

With one exception, no new through bolts were used. Just the originals as fitted by the factory on the engine production line provided they look in good condition, and the engine did not severely overheat when the gasket was damaged.

Touch wood, every Cylinder Head Gasket we have repaired has continued to give good reliable service and the coolant levels hardly move at all except by normal expansion and contraction.

My son runs a Lotus Elise S2 with the 1.8 K-Series. Has a similar engine configuration layout to the MGF/TFs. In the three years and over 20,000 miles he's had it, the coolant level has not moved.

The most important thing we believe is identifying and rectifying the cause of the cylinder head gasket being damaged. Also, checking and the cleaning up preparation of the block-head interface is very important of course.

In most cases it was a worn water pump allowing coolant to escape and in one instance, poor pro-servicing fitting an exhaust manifold gasket incorrectly which did not allow the coolant elbow to seat and seal properly so coolant escaped that way. Fortunately the owner spotted it in good time and stopped using the car before more serious overheating damage.

Two K-Series cars bought new in the family, one Rover Metro in 1993 and the other an MG ZS 120+ in 2003, still no sign of CHG so called 'failure'. The Water Pumps have been renewed.

When renewing the CHGs on the K-Series, ALWAYS renew the Water Pump. In my limited experience, worn water pumps are a prime cause of coolant loss leading to so called CHG "failure" damage.

After close on fifty years of rover and MG Motoring, I have again sampled 2-Seater motoring after over forty years when i sold my MGB back in 1970. Bought this little beauty with a long list of 'fails' on the MoT failure sheet. Been enjoying lots of top-down motoring in the superb recent sunny weather. Here's the MGF and my MGB from the 1960s. Close on fifty years of MG Motoring ... can't be bad ... ;).





MGJohn

and the current MG 2-seater :~

MGJohn

MG John obviously knows what he is talking about, I have two K series engined cars, owned for 15 and 13 years respectively. Only trouble I had with the 1400 K Supersport Caterham was early in the piece when I did my own coolant change befor I knew how to bleed the system properly,
. Get someone who knows what they are doing to service the engine and the K series is very reliable, pictures attached, Alan

/Users/avmackew/Desktop/06 IMG_6116.JPG/Users/avmackew/Desktop/12 DSC_7988-A_D7000.jpg
a mackew

> Also, checking and the cleaning up preparation of the block-head interface is very important of course

From what I've read (elsewhere!) when using an MLS gasket the head needs to be perfectly flat or it's doomed to failure, when using the elastomer type the allowance is 1 - 2 thou.

> Leigh - make sure get the correct OAT coolant, otherwise there WILL be tears.

I think this is the reason for the original gasket failure (despite Jon bon Jovi's efforts). Car was fine, moved up and down the driveway in Dec, added new antifreeze, checked car again in Feb (moved up and down driveway again) and gasket gone.
Leigh Reid

Hi all,

Specialist coolant? I have always just put wtaer in - no need for antifreeze here in southern Italy. Should I be adding something else? The thought of a HGF terrifies me!

Thanks & Ciao

Elona
E J Davies

The OAT coolant has an anti-rust corrosion agent in it, which protects the plumbing.

For piece of mind, you should consider fitting a low coolant alarm, which will give you fighting chance of turning the engine off before any damage is done.
Sam Murray

Thank you. I remain confused after looking at many threads on many forums. Pink, yellow, green OAT non OAT, summer coolant mix etc etc. It may be just me but it is confusing.

I will be living in Southern Italy for the next 2 years - so no need for anti-freeze. So my question is what should be in my car? (MGF 1996). I am back in UK for a couple of weeks in September so can pick it up, I also have access to the US base here in naples which has a very comprehensive auto shop.

Of note, I am unsure what is in the system at present looks faintly yellow/green in colour.

Please a simple "put this in" answer please, including any parts to water mixing ratios etc.

As ever many thanks

Elona
E J Davies

Sorry Elona, no such thing as simple answer when it comes to MG's.

I suspect your car will fall into the 2Early vehicle" category.....

Early vehicles up to VIN No: 512771 use UNIPART Superplus 3 Anti-freeze and Summer Coolant GEC1020 - 20 litre and GEC 1002 2 litre to protect the cooling system. The coolant is yellow/green in colour.
CAUTION: No other ’universal’ or Organic Acid Technology (OAT) anti-freeze should be used with UNIPART Superplus 3 Anti-freeze and Summer Coolant. If UNIPART Superplus 3 Anti-freeze and Summer Coolant is not available, use an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze containing no methanol with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors which meet specifications BS6580 and BS5117 suitable for use in mixed metal engines. To ensure the protection of the cooling system against corrosion, these anti-freezes must be renewed every 12 months.

Vehicles from VIN No: 512772 to Vin No: 520012 use
UNIPART AFC Longlife Anti-freeze and Summer Coolant AFC GEC6025(25 litres) to protect the cooling system. The coolant is blue in colour. CAUTION: No other ’universal’ or Organic Acid Technology (OAT) anti-freeze should be used with UNIPART AFC Longlife Anti-freeze and Summer Coolant. If UNIPART AFC Longlife Anti-freeze and Summer Coolant is not available, use an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze containing no methanol with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors which meet specifications BS6580 and BS5117 suitable for use in mixed metal engines. To ensure the protection of the cooling system against corrosion, these anti-freezes must be renewed every 12 months.
Sam Murray

Elona,
The simple 'put this in' advice would be Superplus again; it contains the same corrosion inhibitors that the internal surfaces have got used to.
My local MGR dealer (when there was one) also advised me to not use the 50% recommended-from-new dilution rate but to go for 33%(3 times 1 litre bottle)even in the UK for my then ten year old cars.
Although the coolant service life at the start of the car's life was listed as 12 months the bleed process is very critical and I would look to do it as seldom as possible. When I used Superplus I went for 24 months.
I changed to modern OAT at the scheduled waterpump and cambelt services. The service life of OAT is about the same as the waterpump and cambelt which is easy to remember!
Charless

Guys,

As ever many thanks, and as ever another question? all copied - so where do I get it? I'm in Italy - can it be mailed? Anyone know the American equivalent? as I have access to US base.

Back in UK first week of September so can pick up in person - who stocks it?

Apologies for all of the follow up questions!

Cheers

Elona
E J Davies

If you have to get it in the UK, then UNIPART is the place to go.

They have outlets almost everywhere.

http://www.unipart.co.uk/
Sam Murray

This thread was discussed between 28/07/2013 and 16/08/2013

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