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MG MGF Technical - HGF DIY

I guess this may have been covered many times in the past but I will ask again. I think I have the dreaded HGF although I do not belive any damage has been done as I caught it very early. I have a water leak which appears to be coming from around the block just around the distributor.I am assuming that the leak is coming from the gasket. Is it possible to replace the gasket for the DIY type guy ? Is there a list of step by step instructions on what to do in sequence and what part you need to have to complate the job ? Any help would be much appriciated.
David Law

http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/misc/Elise%20Service%20Manual%20-%20indexed.pdf

Has a k-series engine manual included, note this is not specific to the F, just the engine.
Will Munns

Kieren Gibson has just done this, there is a current thread on this board titled "HGF - the costs" or something along these lines.

SF
Scarlet Fever

As have I (actually I had to do a complete strip down to get the crank out), but as Kieren, I did it on a 1.6 rover 400.
Will Munns

Thanks guys. Do you believe that the work can be done without removing the engine from the car ?
David Law

I honestly don't know, but there is very little 'special' about this engine, whip off the engine inspection panel and have a look, the head bolts(10) need to be done up with a torque wrench then breaker bar (1 1/2 foot will do), 40Nm +180 +180 (3 steps) make sure you can reach all bolts (remove the cam cover to see the bolts)

You also need to get at all the bolts on the inlet manifold (7?) and exaust manifold (5) as well as removing the top cam cover (needs access thru the wheelarch) in order to reach the tensioner.

According to the manual you will have to rotate the cams to get at the centre bolts, I didn't need to. You will need a cam locking tool, this is moulded plastic, dont try to make one up youself (like I did) or you will end up swearing a lot when it lets go.

If you want to change the timing belt at the same time (advisable) then you will need to remove the alternator belt and pully (210Nm!) and will need some way of stoping the crank rotating (like someone selecting 1st and pushing hard on the brake)
Will Munns

The job can be done with the engine in situ. A workshop manual is essential (bootleg versions on CD exist...). A cam locking tool is handy but not really neccessary (the cams have a hexagonal portion that fits an open-ended spanner).
Just be careful and patient and go by the book - and bleed the cooling system carefully afterwards!
Jon

Yep, I concurr. It can be done, and an open ended spanner will work just as well as a cam lock tool.
When we changed the timing belt, we stopped the crank rotating by selting first applying hand brake, and using big flat screwdriver into the gearbox.
It can be done and it's trickier on the 'F' 'cos os access - But it's very satisfying. And if you strip the head and sort out the followers and valves, it will improve the performance bigtime - 'specially if you've got some big miles on the clock.

Cheers

Kieren (who finally after losing the 'F' is starting to get an idea of what he's actually talking about)
Kieren Gibson

"using big flat screwdriver into the gearbox" hmm, sounds brutal...

Into the flywheel starter ring gear, I think?

A valve job including new stem seal also camshaft seals is of course a wise move while the heas is stripped anyway.

One thing I think is very important is to clean the surfaces where the new gasket fits in order to make it "grip" optimally. Methylated spririts is what I use.
Jon

Ivor Searle recommend skmming the head as a way of cleaning the face, or WetnDry around a flat block.
Will Munns

This thread was discussed between 09/09/2003 and 10/09/2003

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