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MG MGF Technical - Immobiliser Bypass (Blipper Not Working)

The remote fob for my 96F has stopped working, I've replaced the battery but it's still not doing anything.

After a bit of searching the net I've read <a href="http://www.autodiagnos.com/multitester/manuals/roveng.pdf" target="_new">here</a> how to bypass the immobiliser using an EKA. My car is an import and I didn't receive an EKA when I bought it used however I did find a 4-digit code printed inside the fob, when I follow the EKA directions using this number the car beeps (as if confirming everythings ok?) but the immobiliser is still active.

Does anyone have any experience doing this?

I've also read that the fobs can lose sync so I've tried resetting it as instructed (removing battery, discharging the capacitors, replacing battery, etc) but still no joy.

help. someone. anyone.
Ross

resyncing requires three presses of the button whilst in rance of the car. Not noticed this in the F, but in the 400 you cannot resync or de-imobalize with the key in the ignition.

Could you be near a sorce of radiation like a microwave oven or mobile phone tower? (if so try pushing the car up the road)

The ariel is in the centre console.

Have you checked all the fuses? it could just be that the alram ECU has no power!
Will Munns

The 4-digit code on early cars like ours is frequently wrong.

As Dr Dave posted a while back:

>>The fault was caused by a software error on the production line. The trick is to increase the 2nd and 4th digits of the code by a value of 1
EXAMPLE
1345 becomes 1446<<

Try this fix - it should hopefully sort you out.

Regarding the immobilisor fob itself - then Will is right - it may take a little while to synchronise, but it should sort itself out. Failing that, take your car to your local dealership for assistance in getting the fob to talk to your alarm!
Rob Bell

I moved house about 3 months ago and I've noticed that my blipper doesn't work to well in this area, although it's fine when I'm anywhere else.

Some mornings I've actually had to open the car using the key and then de-activate the immobiliser from inside the car using the blipper. I tried this today thinking it might be the same problem but even trying down by the passenger footwell it won't do anything.

I had assumed this was a result of local interference but can't see that it wouldn't work when it's so close. There's a supermarket and a cop shop practically on my doorstop and I'm blaming the rozzers.
Ross

After a bit more research I've found out that the code in the fob isnt the EKA (bit hopeful really) but a manufacturing date code. The car beeps to confirm an INCORRECT code has been entered.

I've also discovered that the immobiliser 'should' deactivate without pressing the button on the key fob simply by holding the key fob near the ignition switch. Can't say I've ever noticed/tried this before as I've always used the fob to unlock and deactivate everything.

I'm going to try moving the car later as the lucas 5as systems suffer badly from interference, if this fails then I'm thinking about taking the immobisliser ECU out and taking that down my local dealer. I hate to see my car being towed anywhere - it hurts my heart and my wallet.
Ross

Ross

1996 cars need buttons pressing.

2001MY cars (IIRC) only need proximity.

Go to an MGR dealer with RegNo and/or VINNo and their computer will(should) show the override code. NB Robs comments about errors in the computer records early on.

I got my code from dealer with no hassle.
John Ponting

Ross, because it's an early car you can get the immobalizer deactivated permently, this could well be an option if it's the police station causing you the trouble, but I'd want to get an aftermarket alarm fitted ASAP.
Will Munns

Ross
this happened to one of the guys on the Treffen. He took the fob apart and looked for a 'dry joint' . This cured the problem

David
david stonehouse

Will,

How do you get the immobilizer deactivated permantly?
Mine causes me so much trouble. I want to put my own CAT1 alarm in.

kind regards,

bryan
bryan

Well, car is now running. Paid a visit to caffyns (local dealer) earlier and managed to get EKA from the VIN. The funny thing is I phoned them yesterday and their advice was to get the car lifted to them, they didnt even mention the existence of the EKA, after reading Johns post and talking to a friend who did the same with his Rover I decided to walk down their with my log book and ask them straight out for it. (They even waived the £10 charge for looking it up. 2 mins work! - should f*&%ing hope so too the amount I've spent with them previously)

Anyway, got home with my newly aquired EKA and went through the sequence... only to have it rejected ny an audible "Beep" BIG THANKS now to Rob - I tried adding 1 to the 2nd and 4th digits of the code supplied by my dealer and it's worked a treat.

Points to note however:- I read that the system locks for 10mins after 3 unsuccesful entries of the EKA - mine seemed to lock after just 1 failed attempt. Also (Bryan) according to the chap at caffyns once I have used my EKA the immobiliser will remain innactive until reset using the blipper so if you want to deactivate yours (semi)permanently then you should just be able to enter your EKA then hide your blipper in the back of a drawer somewhere.
Ross

I'm starting to wish I hadn't been able to bypass the immobiliser... Lost control in some v.slippery wet weather last night on my way home, narrowly missed a parked car but ended up in some chaps front garden after taking down his 3ft brick wall.

Doh!
Ross

This thread was discussed between 24/09/2003 and 28/09/2003

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