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MG MGF Technical - Is this the tool I need

Is this the cam locking tool I need to change the belt on a 2000 model MGF - it doesn't mention the MGF in the list. I assume it is the K16 series engine. Thanks.

http://www.draperproducts.co.uk/52306/Draper-52306-ROVER-GROUP-CAMSHAFT-LOCKING-TOOL.html

Also, is there a specific flywheel locking tool I need.
Damien Thorn

Is this the flywheel locking tool I need (with PG1 gearbox) ?

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?code=4410
Damien Thorn

Yes and yes for the other one!!
Jerry Herbert

The flywheel locking tool illustrated cannot be fitted with the engine in the car, it can only be fitted with the engine on the bench and when the bell housing is removed.

Dave
Dave Andrews

there is a tool that can be fitted just by pulling the starter motor out... but i made mine so i cant really help sourceing
Will Munns

If you have a manual transmission, many have locked the engine by putting in top gear and pulling the handbrake on-hard. Unfortunately I have a steptronic so cannot use this technique. What I do is to remove the pressed steel panel under the inlet manifold, then you can access the flywheel and use a large screwdriver to lock the flyweel, but you need a second person to hold it in place for you. Again like Will I have made a steel flat bladed device that interfers with the starter ring, but this time clamps to the engine to bellhousing fixing, this then makes it a one man job and keeps the enging locked in position while you are doing whatever. It is is a little easier than having to remove the starter motor. I think you will find the are are various techniques using some ingenuity. With the steptronic one can also access the flywheel though a cavity between the bellhousing and transmission right at the bottom underside, so this is a new project fo me to make a new tool to arrest the flywheel through this cavity which will then do away with removing the pressed steel panel.

Tony
A J Duthie

Whilst locking the flywheel is ideal, its a bit of a faff with the engine in the car. I use a windy gun for both removing and tightening the crank pulley bolt. Done in seconds and the crankshaft hardly moves at all.

There are 12V electric impact guns available for not a lot more than the cost of the locking fixture, claiming settable torque up to 350Nm. Whilst they may seem a bit Mickey Mouse at that price, I have heard good reports from those that have bought them.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-Impact-Wrench-Digital-Display-Torque-Config-GS-CE-/250690543044?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3a5e521dc4

Tim
Tim Guy

Oh no !!!

I thought if I removed the starter motor, I could use the flyweel locking tool. But you're saying the engine needs to be completely out for that to work ?

So all I need is the cam locking tool and a big flathead screw driver ?

Silly question - but why does the flywheel need to be locked - is it purely to freeze it to unwind the crank pulley bolt. If the flywheel moves, during cambelt installation, does it mess up any alignment or is keeping the cam aligned the important bit ?
Damien Thorn

Are they any pictures on the web showing the flathead screwdriver approach ?
Damien Thorn

You dont need to remove the pressed steel panel, you can gain acess to the flywheel ringgear adjacent to the offside driveshaft where it goes into the diff, there is a place there where you can insert a stout screwdriver and lock the flywheel, I have done this over 150 times and it is a faultless way of cracking the bolt.

Crack the crank bolt first and loosen off around half a turn until it has virtually no bite, *then* align the crank at 90BTDC. Then lock the cam pulleys with the locking tool and remove the crank bolt and crack/remove the cam oulley bolts.

Dave
Dave Andrews

As Dave says - stick a screw driver in it. Did this on the Shed's engine. I have a picture knocking about somewhere if you don't subscribe to either FTF or Safety Fast ;o)
Rob Bell

A picture would be great - I'm struggling to understand where to stick the scredriver !!!

Damien Thorn

Sorry about this - getting paranoid about the whole flywheel locking scenario !!!

Does the flywheel need to be locked throughout the cambelt change. Is there any chance of it moving if there is nothing locking it in place ?

I have a white marker pen which I intend to mark up everything when in the original position but I don't want anything moving whilst I'm changing the belt.

As it's my first time changing a cambelt on a MGF - do you think I'm best going the "flywheel locling tool" route (if it's possible with the engine in) - the manual seems to think so. Would putting it in gear lock the flywheel during cambelt installation ?
Damien Thorn

The service position for changing the cambelt is 90 deg from TDC, ie with all pistons mid stroke so it is quite safe to turn the crankshaft up to 45 deg either way.

As long as you mark its position and set it up exactly as it was, before putting the new belt on it will be fine.
Same applies to the camshaft pulleys - but don't spin them with abandon, a set mark isn't the full story because of the 2:1 pulley ratio between crank and cam.

If you have the head off, turning the crankshaft even one little bit is definitely not recommended unless you clamp the liners.
Tim Guy

I recently did a cam belt change on my daughter's Ford. The starter was all but inaccessible so I used an electric impact gun as described above with a strap wrench to hold the crank pulley from moving. The bolt was out in seconds with no movement.

Rich
Rich McKIe

This thread was discussed between 03/09/2010 and 30/09/2010

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