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MG MGF Technical - Juddering -clutch deformed

All,
When starting the car from cold and pulling away in 1st I have recently started to get a very bad juddering (whole car job) which disappears once the clutch is fully engaged. Once the car has warmed up it goes away, also it dosen't do it in reverse even when cold.

Any ideas.


96 MPi 79,000 miles (yeah she's getting a little old now)
R Baker

Possibly either weak clutch springs or oil leak from gearbox or engine side. Checked gearbox oil-level recently? Any signs of leaks on driveway ?

BR,Carl.
Carl Blom

No and No!
Whats the best way to check the gearbox oil level, or should I rephrase that.


How do I check the gearbox oil level cos I know it isn't going to be easy!

Cheers
R Baker

Easy if you have a hydraulic lift - not so easy without... There is a plug on the side of the gearbox that the oil should be level with. Tim(W) has checked this in the past - so over to you Tim...
Rob Bell

Hello Richard, if you have lost transmission or engine oil onto the clutch it will also have found it's way out and the leak should be visible. Just examine the underside of engine/transmission - should be oil free.

You could try buffing up the clutch plate a bit by finding a quiet hill and half way up slipping the clutch and reving like hell, stop if you get a nasty burning smell!!

That should kill or cure it, but make sure you can have a lift home just in case you need it ;-)

It's also worth checking the engine mounting rubbers by trying to push/pull the engine fore/aft, it should be steady as a rock.

Good luck, jt
John Thomas

I have a 53 TF with just under 6,000 miles on the clock and I have also noticed this in the afternoons on my way home from work (probably not getting this in the morning as I reverse up my drive). Only seems to happen when I first pull away, I had originally put it down to not enough gas when pulling away. Should I be taking the car back to the garage?
J Ip

I have this on the Labrat

in my case it is definitley a knackered clutch
the thing wears a towbar and that is fatal!

but I will try the hill and rev - clutch idea... just for the hell of it really!!!!

MMmmmmmmmmmmmmm I love the smell of Clutches in the morning!!

Neil

I have just got my second hand VVC and i two have noticed this problem - i has noticed it before the post was created.

the car has just been in for a service (before i picked it up) and therefor it shouldnt be the gearbox oil, right?

i am reluctant about the hill reving idea, that surely wont be good for it will it???

John

This evening when i got back from work i sat in the car on the drive - didnt go anywhere in it to see if the juddering still occured.

it did.

i just think its the engine getting warmed up now as it stopped after a short period of time.
John

I recalled and earlier discussion on this topic and so took a look in the 'archive' and there it was - in 1999 Roger Parker advised:-

Lay odds that they will find the clutch driven plate slightly distorted. Many of the older Rover cars with the same series of gearbox have sufferred from very slight clutch drag which is usually overcome by the forward gears synchro, (wears it quicker though) yet the non synchronised reverse crunches.

A harsh trick I have used for very many years with continued success is to 'warm' the clutch. Handbrake fully on, engage 4th gear raise revs to around 2500 and start to engage the clutch, increase the throttle position to prevent stalling and induce some heat into the clutch. Two or three seconds at a time though so not to burn the clutch. Two or three applications to the point where you can start to smell the 'hot' clutch is all that is needed. Then go for a short drive of about 5 mins duration with frequent clutch operation to allow cooling. 9 times out of 10 the reverse engagement is much easier and so will first from stationary.

In some of the older 2 litre cars there was some slight oil bleed through the flywheel bolt threads which eventually found its way onto the driven plate. Whilst not enough to cause slip by lubrication, it did cause the lining to expand with the liquid, enough for the drag to occur. 'Burning in' the clutch provided a small degree of 'refacing' the driven plate linings. In the F I imaging that a similar situation is arising, be it oil or water. I have noted that it is the cars that are used gently that seem to suffer more!

Experience shows that this method provides from between 2 months and 2 years relief from the need to replace the clutch, which can be useful if there isn't a warranty to cover the costs.

Rog
John Thomas

What a memory John! I can rememember Rog's post now that I've re-read it, but to be able to recall it and find it in the archives ... phew! Well done :-)
Dave Livingstone

You know what they say about old timers - we can't remember what happened 5 minutes past but events 5 years ago are clear as a bell.

Is that snoring noise coming from Ted ;-)

jt

John Thomas

>>You know what they say about old timers - we can't remember what happened 5 minutes past but events 5 years ago are clear as a bell.

I just wish that were true for me - I seem to be forgetting both! Perhaps that was me snoring ...
Dave Livingstone

This thread was discussed between 25/03/2004 and 02/04/2004

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