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MG MGF Technical - LOLARM coolant level sensor
Has anyone got any experience of this device? On the face of it it seems a neat and well thought out solution. Regards all. |
donald |
Not personally - I went down the B&G low-coolant sensor route. |
Rob Bell |
Rob, Is there any data/indication that the low-coolant sensors reduce the chances of hgf? Would it be wise to also fit a remote thermostat as per the Discovery? Ron |
Ron Bourne |
Ron, Data - no, indication - yes, and yes if expensive but worth considering I think! |
Charles |
I have the B&G low coolant sensor fitted. When it started to beep I waited till the car had cooled down filled up with water and drove to the workshop where the coolant was pouring out. Fearing the worst I was waiting for HGF when the phone rang BUT it was the waterpump that had given up. As the beeper sounded before the coolant loss became serious I am sure that an over heating situation was prevented which would have become a HGF. |
Andrew W Regens |
Rob, Where can you purchase the B&G low coolant sensor..and are they difficult to install. Cheers, Andrew |
A Hyatt |
Ron, as Charles says, no data. The low coolant level indicator can only really inform you of a low coolant level - if this is because of a leak somewhere other than a gasket, then yes, you'll save your headgasket by being able to act quickly to resolve the problem (pretty much as in Andrew's example above). In the worst case scenario, the low coolant sensor will tell you that the head gasket has already gone, you've lost your coolant, and you'd better stop ASAP! In this eventuality, you'll save the cylinder head; alloy heads HATE being over heated - and you can therefore save yourself an absolute packet of cash by not having to buy either a new head, or indeed a complete new engine!!! In so many ways, these gadgets are a good insurance that could potentially save £££s. And no, I don't have any connections whatsoever with either B&G or LoLarm... Andrew, fitting is pretty straightforward. The B&G kit comes with excellent instructions that are reasonably easy to follow. I complicated mine by chucking the nasty after market lamp in the bin, and used the catalyst over heat lamp (used only in Japanese spec cars) instead. Now everything looks absolutely standard and tidy. :o) |
Rob Bell |
Rob, What's your thoughts on the remote thermostat, where to get one and ease of fitting? Had my hgf at 24000 now on 36000 and getting nervous Ron |
Ron Bourne |
I couldn't find the lolarm on the Web, so I can't compare to the B&G type. The B&G version is quite expensive for what you get, (around £80), but fitting it is fool-proof. It has been custom-made for the F/TF, but I found stripping out the trim to fit the wiring was a bit tedious. The basic kit contains a standard loom, then there are 3 or 4 add-ons depending on which year your car isand whether the cigarette ligher feed is on at all times. I would endorse the view that if you prefer an unmodified look, simply don't install the led wiring. The sounder is so loud there is very little chance of you missing it. Chris |
Chris |
>>What's your thoughts on the remote thermostat, where to get one and ease of fitting? << The PRT is a great bit of kit - and there is data available that suggests that it has had a fantastic impact on the number of HGFs occuring. BUT... I had an interesting chat with Roy at Techspeed - my car's up there at the moment for a service, and a few other 'refinements' ;o) I had planned to have a PRT retrofitted, but Roy suggested that unless the PRT was fitted at the time of the gasket, then the damage (presumably thermal cycling) would already have been done, and a future HGF is not avertable. Looks on the face of it to be a pretty dire prognosis - but it does allow some refinement in the recommendation: PRTs are well worth fitting when done in the context of an HGF repair. I'll be keeping the standard thermostat for now. Took over 80k miles for mine to let go - hopefully I'll get at least this from the second. :o) |
Rob Bell |
Thats good thinking Rob, then I 'only' need to schedule in the SS pipes this year ........As far as I can tell the original thermostat, hoses and rad >11 years later. Bit of a weep from the A/C rad though :( |
C.R.B. Simeon |
Finally bought the LO-LARM low coolant sensor (£45.00 +£5.00 P&P) Super piece of kit with excellent instructions. Easy to fit with no draining down. Works a treat! |
Donald |
Hi I designed and now market Lolarm. I sell it for £49.50 including P & P. Phone (01582 832305) or email me (ongorg@tiscali.co.uk) for information or to order. Over 100 are now fitted to Fs and TFs. How it works: A sensor consisting of a brass float with enclosed magnet fits into the existing coolant tank and is secured by the original black coolant cap*. The sensor detects low coolant level and a control unit with flashing LED and audible alarm attaches to the consul under the dash with double-sided velcro. The system is initiated as the ignition is turned on. The kit can be installed in under 1/2 hour with no need to drain or drill holes. The kit also fits Lotus Elise and Rover 25, and most K-series engined cars. Andy C * The sensor will only fit original coolant tank caps and is not suitable for after-market caps (usually coloured yellow or blue). |
ANDY CAPY |
This thread was discussed between 27/03/2007 and 08/04/2007
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