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MG MGF Technical - Lowering Knuckles

Guys

Finally got around to thinking about some lowering knuckles, I'm sure I read somewhere that it is a DIY job that can be done without depressurising the Hydrogas system!!!

Had alook in the archives and cannot find the original thread so and advice or links would be welcome.

One thread that I have read stated that you jack the corner up, slide the knckle out and replace it with a new knuckle - is it really that simple??

Are the Knuckles the only parts I need and how much should I expect to pay for 4 whell alignment?

Thanks for any advice

Arron
A Burgess

Arron,

I hate to burst your bubble, but I don't think that it's that simple :-(
David Clelland

It can be done this way Arron - but I tried, and I confess that I gave up. Trying to pop out the original knuckles, when you've not done this job before, on the side of a busy street ain't the easiest job in the world :o(

Lowering knuckles cost about 100 quid (although you should think about getting them anodised to avoid electrolytic corrosion with the aluminium hydragas displacer), and the cost of re-tracking is 40 quid.
Rob Bell

Thanks guys, Mike sells the knuckles for £48.00 plus the VAT - are these the correct one's that I need!

Rob, you dont happen to have any instructions on the DIY job do you, I'd like to have a go myself, If (or when) I do get stumped theres always the my Dad who pretty handy around a cars mechanics and I know he'd LOVE to help.

Thanks again

Arron
Arron


When depressuring the hydragas system, the knuckles come off quite easily with a large flat screwdriver.

Without depressuring the hydragas, it could be possible, but with more fiddle and possibly the help of a second person.

Rob, the knuckles are made of steel, not aluminum... they could be sulphured (sp ??) but not anodised.
And now, Mike Satur sells the knuckles only (the "bolts", without the rest of the assembly), for about £60 iirc.
If the above DIY fitting is possible, that's a bargain @ 60 quid ;o)
Fabrice

Fabrice - yes, you are right - hence the electrolytic corrosion with the aluminium displacers. Sulphured? Hmm, I know what you mean - and persumably an engineering company should be able to help out here.

>>Mike sells the knuckles for £48.00 plus the VAT - are these the correct one's that I need!?<<

They're cheap! I think that these are the ones without the rubber 'boots'. You'll need to transfer the ones from your existing knuckles to the replacements Arron. Should be an easy enough job.

>>Rob, you dont happen to have any instructions on the DIY job do you<<

Er, sadly not, as I wasn't able to complete the job. I think that Fabrice's point is well made - far easier to do this with the aid of a hydragas pump (you can beg/borrow/steal one!)

See Dieter's instructions - http://www.mgfcar.de/lowering1/index.htm

And the very best of luck with it - and also with persuading your Dad to help out! LOL
Rob Bell

Guys

Thanks for the advice, I'll post with some results if and when I get it done!

Cheers

Arron
Arron

>sulphured

Nope, just *burned black* from surface hardening. Nothing with rust protection.

Though, there should be no rust problem between knuckle and ally piston if you apply enough grease as well to the spring inside of the piston.
A washer between knuckle and piston as supplied by factory is a must due to the bad counter sunk drill on the bottom of the ally piston. *to large drill!!) The knuckle will slip into the piston hole and stick with it at any time.
I still assume this happened to SF car in last year when the plastic part between knuckle and upper arm bearing got broken. At last it rusted away below.

Anyway, I'd go for the Satur *bolts only*. It's a a*se to lathe substitutes without *both sides* lathe machines. I think I should remove the mad drawing from the webside.

HTH
Dieter
PS. cut the ally piston by 7mm is another easy solution if you get the ally piston off from the displacer. (Impossible without hydragas pump)


Dieter K.

This thread was discussed on 01/07/2003

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