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MG MGF Technical - New Rad and Coolant change - Scary...
| Guy's, my radiator's like a tea bag and needs replacing. Therefore, it seems prudent to replace the coolant too. I have made my car doctor aware of the imorance of doing this correctly, and am collating as much as I can from the archives to make sure the procedure is carried out correctly. He has just called asking how much coolant he should expect to use. I guess he need to know roughly in litres, so he can make up the mixture. Does anyone know this please ? (thanks Dieter) Cheers Kieren |
| Kieren Gibson |
Hi Kieren, the manual says 10,5 liters from dry so 5 liters of the correct anti-freeze and the rest pure water should be OK. If not all gets into the system due to not total draining - take the remaining with You for future bleeding / refill ...Do NOT replace the plastic cover where the heater bleeder nipple is located until several bleedings during prolonged drives ! Have You had a chance to see the rad. and where the corrosion is ? Probably at the lower part of the rad... There is something dodgy here. As I wrote some time ago there is probably ground currents in the chassie involwed in this fairly rapid demise of coolant pipes and rad. I will on my "F" move the ground cable for the battery and route a ground return back to the starter / generator for several reasons . One is the possibillitys of the above mentioned currents in the chassie. Probably others will respond with things I have forgotten to mention at the present, just be sure to bleed the system and top up when ever there is a chance for the first week or two. Regards , Carl. |
| Carl |
| Kieran, while changing the rad it is worthwhile changing it for a larger capacity one these are about the same price as a new rad anyway (120quid) and improve the cooling. The system requires 5.5 litres of AF. BTW we have had 4 cars in this last week all with this same problem of corroded cooling fins ,this will cause a loss of efficiency and overheating and possible HGF. Easy to check,run a finger along the fins if they crumble and turn to dust then replace the rad ASAP. Low mileage is not a safeguard as we had a car in with constant O/H problems with 20k on the clock, the rad was shot.HTH. Mike. |
| mike |
| Thanks for that guy's. The fins ARE all crumbling away. I hadn't thought about a larger capacity radiator, but if it's worth it I'll go for it. I was considering changing the coolant pipes at some stage this year anyway. Think I might check them and do that sooner rather than later. Cheers Kieren ps Any word on those Brake Calipers yet mike ? |
| Kieren Gibson |
| The lower left corner of my F's rad was holed because of corrosion - which incidently is the same area of oxidation that Carl noted on his summer-use only car. Is there any evidence of this on your rad Kieren? As cooling mods go, perhaps Carls remote thermostat mod might be a good idea for when you replace the under-body coolant pipes? More details on Dieter's web site: http://www.lame-delegation.de/mgf-net.de/thermostat/Water_System_Mods.htm This is something that I am seriously considering... |
| Rob Bell |
| My rad and water pump went at the beginning of the year ... again the rad had corroded fins. Gaz '96 VVC |
| Gaz |
This thread was discussed on 23/04/2002
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