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MG MGF Technical - Rattle from engine bay

Hi All,

Im a bit worried about my F, it started making some rattling/rubbing noises from the engine bay today. Its a 96 1.8 (non-vvc) thats done <80k miles. I had a HGF about 4 years ago (repaired by MGR under warranty) but recently had problems with the water pump that needed replacing - about 5 months ago.

Since the replacement water pump its been using more water than it should, having to be topped up every few weeks...nothing major though.

Apart from that ts been fine. I noticed today a strange noise coming from the engine bay, pretty sure it wasn't there yesterday. The noise isn't alarmingly loud and cannot be heard if you take the revs above ~3.5k due to the usual engine/exhaust sounds. Coolant and oil levels seem fine. The sound can be heard when the car's idle and in motion but disappears if i dip the clutch.

Hopefully getting her into a garage early next week and I'm not driving her until its been looked at but does anyone has any ideas what it could be?

Thanks
Jeff
J Sault 1

hi jeff,
have similar noise on my 96f.also had the same thing on an orion(noise dissapeared when the clutch was depressed).checked with my local garage who diagnosed worn lay shaft/idler gear bearing.
they also said it could last the life of the car without any problems or fail tomorrow.for your own peace of mind let a garage have a look(mine never charges to have a look at potential problems).

chris
chris

As Chris says, the PG1 gearbox can be quite rattly even on low mileage cars, but rarely develops into a failure. Worth checking the gearbox oil level, this is often found to be well below optimum. IIRC Dieter's site has instructions for this.

For as long as the noise goes when the clutch is depressed, I don't think you need to worry. Maybe a sports exhaust is the solution ;o)

HTH
Mike Hankin

Did some more tests when I got home from work today. It *doesnt* disappear when the clutch is pressed -- must have been my imagination. Before that I was thinking it could be the thrust bearing.

I started it this afternoon and the noise had gone, it only came back after a little revving. I had a better listen to it today and is sounds more of a rubbing than a rattling.

A family member had a quick listen and he thinks it might be the alternator. Does that make sense to everyone?

thanks again
Jeff
J Sault 1

hi jeff,

just read your first message again.re:water loss-i wouldn't expect to need to top up coolant every few week's,might be worth checking under body coolant pipe's for leak's if they havn't been replaced yet.just had mine done at the same age/milage as your f(cooling system need's to be 100% on these).

as for the thrust bearing from memory if it's wearing it appear's as a rattle WHEN clutch is depressed.

you mention having a new water pump fitted,assume you had a new timing belt fitted at the same time.if so could it be a tight timing belt causing pressure on the timing belt tensioner causing noise?one way to check is to place one end of a piece rubber pipe onto the tensioner and stick the other end in your ear(not very graceful but in my opinion one of the best way's of pinpointing noise).take extra care though to avoid contact with the timing belt.

one way of ruling out a possiable alternator fault is to remove the belt but leave all electric's alone and try running the engine to see if noise is still there.one more thing(sorry to rattle on)does noise get louder/quieter with engine rev's,is it audible when engine is hot or cold.

chris
chris

Thanks Chris,

Yes, I did have the timing belt replaced at the same time as the water pump. Fortunatley it's being looked at by the mechanic tomorrow so hopefully, not long from being fixed.

Its odd, the noise remains the same at all rev levels. Ive not had chance to see if it remains once the engine's warmed up since I havent used it for a few days.

Just hoping it's not gonna cost be an arm and a leg to get it fixed. I'll post again tomorrow with what the mechanic found.

Fingers and toes firmly crossed.
Jeff
J Sault 1

Bit of an update, the garage just called. Its one of the pullies on the cam...BUT they the bolt that they need to unscrew is rounded off! They're now trying to drill it off but Ive been warned that they may need to cut a hole in the inner skin, behind the wheel, to get the drill in. If that doesnt work then they will need to take the engine off, remove the head and then get the bolt out.

This is gonna cost me :(

<cries in the corner>
J Sault 1

all back on the road now, they managed to drill the bolt off without cutting lumps out of the bodywork :)

£400 (£60 parts, rest was labour).
:(
J Sault 1

hi jeff

glad to see you are back on the road,what was the problem with the pully?was it age related or mechanical failure?

chris

chris

Hi Chris,

They didnt say unfortunately...i suspect its age since the car's a 1996 model. Thats assuming the pullys aren't changed when the belt is replaced.

Jeff
J Sault 1

jeff, the bolt holding the cam wheel on doesn't have to be removed to change the pump or belt , if they thought it prudent to remove it cause it needed replacing and it had rounded off(why?)it is only a couple of hours to take the cam cover off and remove cam/gear to remove the bolt and replace it. The head certainly doesn't need to be removed.£340 labour!! wish you were one of my customers;-))
mike

Mike (Is that MS?)is right ,pullies don't normally give problems, and why was the nut rounded? They don't need to be touched for a cam belt change, except for locking to prevent movement. You can lock the pullies with a proper tool, or various "bodges" which could damage a pully. If the belt was replaced recently, why was the "pully" not spotted then?
Call me a cynic, but I would query that charge, clarify why the pulley in question had to be replaced.
Perhaps too late now?
Jerry Herbert

Probably a bit late to question it now. As you probably guessed I've never even seen the cam belt on mine.

From what I remember the mechanic saying, it was a bolt that had to be removed in order to fix the squeaky pully. Not sure *where* the bolt was but it must had been on the engine - he mentioned that he had to remove the head to get it out if it couldnt be drilled.

What bolts fit that description and are behind the rear wheel?

Think I might start looking for a new garage. This was just a small local one on an industrial estate. Theres a MGR dealer a few miles down the road (Newtown Motors, Cwmbran) and although their labour rates are higher I expect they have the expertise to fix this sort of thing a bit quicker.

Live and learn I suppose. She's back on the road - that's the main thing ;)

Jeff
J Sault 1

They prolly mean the cam belt tensioner, this has a bolt in the centre (hex key) and one in the arm (10mm). Surprising if either of these are rounded, specially due to them hardly ever being touched (every cam belt change)
Will Munns

This thread was discussed between 16/09/2005 and 26/09/2005

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