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MG MGF Technical - Seized underfloor coolant pipes

Season's greeting, folks,

Mike Satur's coolant pipes have been sitting in the garage for far too long, so I started the prep work today, following Tony's excellent instructions.

One thing though, is there some knack, flair, skill or gift that I am otherwise lacking with regard to separating the rubber hoses from the (completely corroded) OEM pipes? How I wish to experience that exciting gush of coolant ;-) All I've done is strain every bone in my weary, cold and depressed body ;-(

Thanks and have a great holiday everyone,
Col
Colin McIlwaine

Colin,

You have my sympathy!

You may well have tried this by the sound of it, but
I assume that you have the car up on ramps/stands, which should allow you enough elbow room to get both hands on the the hoses at the same time.

Try, with both hands, to rotate the hose around the pipe, without bending it too much. Waddle it about from side to side - this may help to loosen up. As a last resort, try using the handle end of a desert spoon, providing that it is fairly rounded and has no sharp edges. Gently insert this into the end of the hose, and gently seperate the hose from the pipe. You may not have to work all the way around each joint, since loosening it in one area may allow you to be able to finally twist/rotate it off.

Try and avoid excessive stretching of the rubber - I know - easier said than done. :-)

If the pipes are corroded as much as you say, then the inside faces of the hoses may be poor, and not give the best seal on the new pipes, but I'd worry about that later, when you have the new pipes on.

Are you using the Mike Satur's stainless steel hose clips? These will give far better sealing effect than the old 'wire' type clips.

Assuming that none of the hoses split in getting them off, once you have the system refilled and running, careful check for leaks. Mine took several weeks to completely stop weeping, probably since the inside surfaces of the old hoses were not perfect. Make it a 'every journey' policy to check the expansion tank level and for leaks, until your convinced all is okay.

Good luck, and Merry Xmas.
Tony

Tony Thompson

Cheers Tony!

Yes, ramps all round, with as much access as you'd expent with a ton of British steel six inches above your nose!

Yep, tried wiggling and waddling with no apparent movement... maybe I was just too wary of getting a faceful of coolant? ;-)

I'll have a go this morning with the spoon suggestion. I'll let you know.

<< ... not give the best seal on the new pipes, but I'd worry about that later >>

Oh my, I won't ask ;-( There's never an easy job, is there?

By the way, not Mike's hose clips, extra large jubilees from the local factors.

Thanks again,
Col

PS *22* bolts? MGR taking no risks there...
Colin McIlwaine

Good luck with this if you get a result tell me.

On my N reg MGF couldn't separate the 10 year join from rubber !

Gave up in the end and purchased the rubber pipes as well. Ended up cutting through the existing unshiftable rubber pipes about half way down with a junior hacksaw. Then took the new purchased ones and cut at exactly the same place.

Took a piece of internal metal pipe about an inch long and inserted half inch into remaining cut rubber pipe,

Then joined the two rubber hoses backtogether with the hose type clips where you tighten with a screw.

So effectively jointed the rubber hoses, if you see what I mean ?

Brian
Brian

Rubber hoses deteriorate with age and since the MGF is so critical in the case of coolant loss, there is no way that I would suggest that you 'Patch Up and Make Do'.
I put my Budget towards 'Preventative Maintenance' in preference to 'Breakdown Warranties' etc.
Rubber Hoses.. If disturbed after 5 years old -Replace.
At 10 years old - Replace. Never refit a Wire Clamp. Only use Stainless Jubilee Clips.
Geoff F.
G. Farthing

Gentlemen,

Thanks to the spoon tip, Tony, the news is good, despite my aching arms ;-) Installing the MS pipes and refilling is a job for tomorrow, though. I managed not to skewer the rubber hoses with the cutlery and the internals of the ends seem to be in A1-ish condition (after a low pressure wash-out), so I guess refitting should be a breeze. Yeah, right.

@ Brian, don't think I wasn't tempted, LOL, but in the end, elbow grease did the trick! Damn hard work though.

@ Geoff, good advice, but I'll leave the 'full replacement' until such times I have the funds, time and inclination to rip out the coolant system. And, yes, SS jubilee clips, wire clamps in the metal recycler already.

@ Tony, any handy tips for getting the hoses *back* on? I presume using something of a lubricating nature might contaminate the cooling system?

By the way, I also took the time to inspect the rad - eight years old - but it *seems* in good nick... maybe if I ever get around to installing that expansion tank sensor yoke (and replacing the rubber hoses ;-), I'll do the works. One thing at a time.

Have a good break, everyone,
Col
Colin McIlwaine

Update: Tony, getting the hoses onto the new pipes was a cakewalk... however...

Okay, I take it back... front bumper and associated bits off and the rad is shot to heck. It'd be helpful to me if maybe someone could comment on the respective virtues of:

o An OEM F rad
o An OEM TF rad
o An 'extra large' rad from Mike S
o A 'stainless steel' rad from Mike S
o A second-hand rad from Victoria

The only thing that leaps out at me is that a TF rad is silly money at £190 from B&G. The other (new) rads are all in the £118-£137 range.

Thanks,
Col
Colin McIlwaine

I changed my radiator at the same time as the pipes. you can bet your life than the new coolant will kill the radiator sooner rather than later. Buy the larger one of Mike is my advice.
Lord Sward

Colin,

Good to hear you got the hoses back on!
I also went for the extra large MS radiator, though it's a tight fit - see www.apttony.co.uk

Tony
Tony Thompson

This thread was discussed between 22/12/2005 and 31/12/2005

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