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MG MGF Technical Superlock BBS discussion at MG-Cars.info
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MG MGF Technical - Superlock
| Can anyone tell me why my superlock doesn't work. I only found out it had one last night and went out to experiment (sad or what) it doesn't seem to work. I tried pressing the key fast twic and then a bit slower but no lights flashed but then they only do when I unlock it. Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Press "lock" repeatedly, if that doesn't work then you have a wireing fault and the alarm thinks that a door/boot/bonnet is still open. |
| Will Munns |
| Dolly Sorry, I'm a bit busy here at work for a couple of hours but somewhere in the ARCHIVE there are instructions on testing the alarm and locking system. It's very easy and just involves sitting in the car pressing the buttons a number of times in a particular sequence. I think Bruce is the expert and will probably read this soon but do search the archive for suitable key words. The door lock is liable to failure (lots of archive hits) and is quick & easy to change if needed. Is the car under warranty? I know you haven't had it long. I'll check here again later today. |
| JohnP |
| Hows about this for service!!! Alarm system test The alarm system can be tested by following the procedure described below: 1. Ensure doors, bonnet and the boot lid are closed. 2. Sit in the driver’s seat and close the door. NOTE: The next three actions must be carried out within 2 seconds. 3. Depress the driver’s doorsill button. 4. Switch the ignition on, off and on again. 5. Raise the driver’s doorsill button. If the test mode has been entered correctly, the horns will give a short beep and the engine immobilisation buzzer will sound. Opening either door, the bonnet or the boot lid, or operating the driver’s doorsill button, will cause the alarm LED to illuminate for approximately one second. If the LED does not illuminate, there is a system fault. The volumetric sensor can also be tested while in test mode. To test the volumetric sensor, press the unlock button on the remote handset several times. The alarm LED will illuminate for approximately 1 second each time movement is detected in the vehicle. The test mode is cancelled by switching the ignition OFF. Bruce |
| Bruce Caldwell |
| bit slow this morning Bruce! |
| JohnP |
| Bruce you're a little star!! So when I've done these tests the car should be ok? I have visions of the alarm going beserk and not letting me back in again :-) Also as an aside my steering lock doesn't work unless you twist the wheel almost full circle (seems to strain the tyres alot) so I don't put it ob anymore! Any ideas? Unfortunately my F isn't under warranty as its a 97. Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Dolly, <<So when I've done these tests the car should be ok?>> No, but you might have an idea where the fault is located. If a door or boot or bonnet is left ajar (or the alarm control unit thinks it's ajar) then the superlock won't work. The indicator lights should flash once when you lock it normally and a further three times when you double blip to superlock. So if you double blip it when you close the door it should flash four times in all. From the experience of people on this BBS, the places to start looking for faults are the wiring around the boot hinge and corroded internals or connectors of the door locks. If you have no experience of doing jobs like this then take a print of the test instructions to your local garage/electrical emporium and get them to check it out. HTH Bruce ( on my way out for the rest o' the day) |
| Bruce Caldwell |
| Morning Bruce! Well I did the test last night. Sat in the car depressed the lock, ignition on off on and then unlocekd door and not a squeek! Nothing at all! Did it a few times just in case....what is that all about? Dolly :-( |
| Dolly D |
| Dolly Is your car a 're-import' from Japan? If so they had different locking specs to the 'home market' cars. Ted |
| Ted Newman |
| Ted I don't think so...if it is will this make any difference when selling it. Also where would it say it was an import? If its on the V5 then it says nothing about it. Cheers Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| If it superlocked before, and doesn't superlock now, there is either a wiring fault somewhere or one of the door catch mechanisms if fubar. I've had this happen to be on a 3 occasions - first was a wire chafing in the boot-lid - second was a wire chafing in the passenger-side centre-console - third time was a duff o/s door catch. Mike Satur sorted all 3 issues with no problem. - A http://www.xpower-mg.com/forum |
| A |
| Thanks A but I've only had the car a couple of weeks and the Superlock doesn't work. Not sure on the history of the car... Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Dolly There is a history of this which is why it was worth using Bruce's notes to test first. Boot wiring loom breaks: at the left side of the boot near to the hinge the wiring loom splits into a Y. It is quite common for one or more wire to break through age or movement at this point. Not instantly visible as yoy need to remove the loom wrapping until the Y is fully visible and then carefully check the wires. If there are breaks a piece of loom needs to be grafted in. When mine failed my dealer only had the car for 2 hours to do a very neat job. Door lock fails: another "popular" failure. The lock mechanism in the RH door gets damp and corrodes and fails to lock. Less than an hour to replace but £60-70 for a lock + labour. Do you know a window cleaner who is also good at auto electrics? Your problem will be easy to fix - just takes a while to sort out what the problem really is. Loads of hits in archive. Good luck. |
| JohnP |
| Dolly If you have only had the car two weeks the the dealer could be held responsible for fixing the fault. Ted |
| Ted Newman |
| Dolly, re the Japanese import question, if you look in the passengers foot well and see a small plastic clip attached to the side wall, then it will be an import. The Japanese must carry a flare in the front of the car in case of accidents (I guess). Imports into NZ usually still have the clips in place. |
| Neil Courtney |
| Ted the car is a 97 so I don't think the dealer will do anything for me :-( Neil I'll have a look tonight - thanks for that. Will it effect me selling the car? Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Dolly The year of the car is immaterial it is the fact that it has just been sold to you and those items that should work, SHOULD WORK! - All part of the sale of goods acts etc. Take the car back and ask for the faults to be rectified and mention Trading Standards Officers. Ted |
| Ted Newman |
| Have a look at: http://www.dti.gov.uk/ccp/topics1/facts/cars.htm http://www.dti.gov.uk/ccp/topics1/images/carwise.gif There's loads more info on the DTI site - get informed, then get it sorted! :-) - A http://www.xpower-mg.com/forum |
| A |
| A - do you think I would be able to complain to the garage I bought it from over the superlock? Its not excatly a safety feature - although the high level brake light, left brake light, left speaker and courtesy light don't work! Had the high level brake light repaired (wires in boot damaged) along with the speaker and replaced bulb for other brake light at approved rover/mg garage. Courtsey light needs new hinge in drivers door which they have ordered. I should have checked these I suppose... Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| If you've only owned the car for 2 weeks, then I believe they are obliged to make it of merchantable quality. As Ted quite rightly says, all those things should work (unless it was explained to you as part of the deal that they were not working). It is the responsibility of the seller to ensure these things are made right. |
| A |
| Agreed! Also the HL Light wires were damaged - this makes me think that there is other damage in the boot lid wiring AND this would certainly cause locking problems. Ted |
| Ted Newman |
| Thanks Guys! Oh I'm a bit miffed now. I've actually had the car a month today so the warranty (from garage) has just run out! Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Thanks Guys! Oh I'm a bit miffed now. I've actually had the car a month today so the warranty (from garage) has just run out! Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| <<I did the test last night. Sat in the car depressed the lock, ignition on off on and then unlocekd door and not a squeek! >> Dolly, During the test it's not supposed to squeek. It flashes the LED light on the dash to indicate correct function of the switch you are operating. (The switches are in each door, the bonnet and the boot). So if you set up the test you should see the LED flash when you open the driver's door. Get someone to watch the LED while you open the boot and the bonnet. Are you sure you enabled the test correctly? The horn should give a short beep when you've done it correctly. Perhaps that was what you meant by a squeek? If so then you may not be doing the sequence quickly enough. Of course this may be an indication that the switch in the driver's door is not operating and so you can't initiate the test. Bruce |
| Bruce Caldwell |
| Dolly, You mention the courtesy light doesn't work and it needs a new 'hinge' to fix it - sure I've read (in other threads on here) that the courtesy light is switched from the lock mechanism. As Bruce and JohnP mention, the failure of wiring to the door lock can affect the central locking - someone more knowledgable will be along soon to tell us if they could be related! Possible that replacing the drivers lock will cure both problems? Mark |
| Mark Roper |
| Does the 'lights on warning buzzer' work, if not then it drivers door lock all the way. |
| Will Munns |
The car is a 1997 model, superlocking didn't exist untill recently, around 2001, correct me if I'm wrong of course. |
| p |
| Superlocking was always a feature from the year 95. Mine's a 96 and has it on. Bruce |
| Bruce Caldwell |
| Hi Guys! Right it defo has superlock on I checked with my Dealer. As for for lights on warning buzzer Will I didn't even know it had one. I checked the other day and nope it doesn't work :-( Not having much luck am I. So it looks like it is the Driver door lock - what are the prices for this job then?! Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Door lock fails: another "popular" failure. The lock mechanism in the RH door gets damp and corrodes and fails to lock. Less than an hour to replace but £60-70 for a lock + labour. Do you know a window cleaner who is also good at auto electrics? Speak to Victoria for an up to date price 01902 403045 |
| JohnP |
| Thanks JohnP. Gosh this little F is trying my patience! Do you think this will then fix the lights and superlock?? Had to buy a new tyre yesterday too as I drove over a nail :-p oops! Dolly. |
| Dolly D |
| The nearest MGF specialist to you is Mike Satur who is based between Barnsley and Rotherham. If you've given up on the dealer you bought the car from, have a look at http://www.mikesatur.co.uk - his labour rates are significantly better than a dealer would charge. - A |
| A |
| To be honest Ted and A I haven't contacted the garage where I bought it from as I think they'll just say its my problem and that I bought it as seen.... Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Dolly, It's faulty, you paid a premium by buying from a dealer, you did this for the extra security a dealer gives you, and some of this security is that the product you brought works, it doesn't. |
| Will Munns |
| So I defo have a right to take it back then. OK I'll give him a call today.... he should do all the repairs - is that right? Dolly |
| Dolly D |
| Dolly YES, YES and YES again:-) Take it back and DEMAND he puts it right. Good luck Ted |
| Ted Newman |
| Thanks Ted! I am just in the middle of writing him an email to pre-warn him. The dealer is in Sheffield, so some 40 miles away from me. Its not as easy as just driving down and confronting him as its so far away. I'll keep you posted on what he has replied! I wont forget to mention the Trading Standards Office either :-/ Dolly |
| Dolly D |
This thread was discussed between 08/10/2003 and 13/10/2003
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