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MG MGF Technical - switch it off

On all my cars I useally fit an aftermarker Hella masterswitch to cut off the battery from the car. Anybody fitted one to an F already ? What is the best, most economical place to place a msterswitch without too much hassle or dismantling ?

Thanks for your idea's

Bas

VA 0251
TD 23222
F MY2000
Bas

Not too sure, but make sure you know the radio security code,
Rich
Richard P

Aha Bas,

As my *F* is a weekend car, I too suffer dead batteries. Quite frustrating that a brand new battery is dead only after a few weeks (3). I´m begining to wonder if the light on the boot really stays on,

david.
David Peters

In my case it isn't the light in the boot. Took the wiring off that !!
Bas

Check all wires to the alternator joints and starter joints. They are prone to getting corroded.

Just my few pence.
Dieter K.

Thanks for the advice Dieter. I will have a look but can not image that is the case. My MY 2000 only has only travelled 4300 km and always parked in a dry garage.
I really want to fit a Hella battery cut off switch somewhere on the front bulkhead. Al I want to know what is the best place without dismantling too much so the Hella switch has its connections in the front luggage space with the connections facing the battery and the switch sticking out in the cabin near the driver.
Can you help ?
Bas

Sounds dry then. What about loose connections ?

> best place without dismantling too much ..
I'm sorry, no idea currently.
Dieter K.

Bas - are there any pictures of the Hella switch and its components on the web? I'm not familiar with it, but I could be interested in this too (albeit for a Triumph Spitfire!)
Rob Bell

Sorry for the stupid question. Should the battery switch cut off the ground or the 12V side of the battery? I assume the ground side would be better.

Regards
Beat
Beat Fischer

Rob, its a straightforward battery cut off switch with a removable hand operated red turn button. Nothing special really. I useally fit one to all my cars. Used to have flat batteries in the past but that is history now (apart from the F that is!) Can''t find a picture yet but I will look.

Cheers, Bas
Bas

Bas, it sounds a little like the battery master kill switch used on competition cars - like this one from the Demon Tweeks Catalogue: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/detail/LEMMW003.jpg

I've seen some MGFs fitted with these with a key on the inside of the cabin - protuding through the coin tray under the heater controls. Shouldn't be too hard to do this on a Mk1 car. Unfortuntely, this convenient location isn't really available on MY2000 fascias...

Beat - cut offs usually terminate the battery/ground connection.
Rob Bell

Rob, finally somebody who understands my thoughts!!! The switch shown by you is exactly what I useally use. We have a commen problem. My F is a MY 2000 as well. We should keep in touch about a possible solution!!
Thanks so far.
Bas

For race you should really cut both +ve and -ve isolating the (engine and car) from (battery and alternator) or the car will continue to run after the kill switch has been pulled.

For killing all power you should be thinking about cutting the ground to the battery only, that way if it goes pete tong then its only the ground rubbing against the chassis and the worst that will happen is a few arcs and the switch won't kill properly (vs a big flash as the cable welds itself to the chassis and the battery/alternator both overheat killing the battery and spilling acid all over the front end and cooking the diodes in the alternator)

Some of the kill switchs have a small fused bypass which alows a small amount of current to flow and feed clocks and radios, but if you got as far as turning the ignition - pop and it all goes dead.
Will Munns

Bas, do you think that having that battery cut off installed in place of the cigarette lighter might be an option?

>>Some of the kill switchs have a small fused bypass which alows a small amount of current to flow and feed clocks and radios, but if you got as far as turning the ignition - pop and it all goes dead. <<

I know the ones you mean - I have one of these for my old Mini. Not much use though if faced with a low-grade current draw that's flattening your battery, as in Bas' case - but perfect if you don't want to loose your radio codes if erradicating all current drain is not your objective.
Rob Bell

Rob, I don't have a radio. I useally enjoy the singinging of the engine. Not bothered with anti theft devices either. Won't be easy to steal anyhow with the masterswitch off. Cicarette lighte not a bad place but long way away from the batteries, not only lots of work but also long cables giving much resistance. Best place would be near the steercolumn or something but I do not want to dismantle that much.
Is that black plastic bit in the middle of the bulkhead covering the washer fluid in the front boot a hassle to take off ? Does it bring me to the bulkhead ?

Bas
Bas

Nope, but be careful putting the fixings back on as they are all moulded nylon. and yes, but you really want to share a grommet with other items (like the EPAS) - just be careful to use lots of tape to seal it back up - or you'll get (more) water in the cabin
Will Munns

Bas, the black plastic shroud in the engine bay is a doddle to remove - you can see the process as part of the instructions here for lowering/raising hydragas suspension: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/howto_lower.htm#with

But it isn't particularly rigid, and not particularly suitable a location IMO :o( Not sure where would be best?

I had an idea of actually mounting one of these switches in the cowl that completes the trim under the windscreen - then you can readily immobilise the car when stationary - but perhaps a bright red key in this location is far from ideal for a road car? ;o)
Rob Bell

Thanks for the clear pictures of shroud removing.

Maybe it is not a good place at all, but I will investigate further and keep you posted.

Bas
Bas

Hi Bas
Wouldn't it be easier to have the switch located under the bonnet? I agree it's a little bit more hassle to switch it on/off but I guess You will not switch it every day.

I bought a switch yesterday which on one side directly attaches to the ground contact of the battery, has a turning knob (looks almost like a water tap) in the middle to switch on/off and on the other side there is a connector for the cable originally attached to the battery contact. Advantage towards other switches: No need to build a bracket for it. Was 26.- CHF. I will install it next week.

Regards
Beat
Beat Fischer

Found a link on the web which shows above product:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/email/default.asp?T1=25053&SRCCODE=1CJBAN8
Beat Fischer

Beat - that's what I use on my Mini too :o) It's also got the ancillary wire so you can use the radio even if the connector 'knob' is removed...
Rob Bell

Rob - I think I don't need the ancillary wire because I only want to protect the battery from being flattened by this small consumers (alarm, clock, evt. bootlights, etc.) while the car is standing in the garage for several weeks or months during wintertime.

So I will have to adjust the clock and set the stations on the radio but don't need a spanner anymore to awake the car from it's sleep.

By the way: Good example for swiss prices: 9.9 USD = 15.- CHF. Payd 26.- CHF at the local dealers. grrrrrrrrrr
Beat Fischer

Beat, thanks for the research. Looks like an easy and acceptable solution for our "long term no use problem".
Be carefull slamming the lid down first time as the switch looks to be slightly higher then a normal terminal. We do not want a bulge on the ouside!!

Bas
Bas

Agreed Beat - and the one you've got should be exactly what Bas is after...

Height wise - hmm, you could be right there Bas... :o(
Rob Bell

Bas, thank You for the original idea regarding a battery switch.
I will be extra careful with that lid. Maybe i will place a peak of my little boy's plastiline (the stuff he can shape little animals etc. with) on top of knob to check the distance remaining between the button and the lid.
Beat Fischer

Beat, have you alredy installed the switch on the battery ? Curious about the space.
Bas

Bas, no. I will probably do it this saturday. The car is standing in a garage away from my home because I have already puted it into "wintersleep". Unless the streets are wet I will take it back to my place on saturday because I will fit a new sports exhaust next week.

Regarding space: I guess it could also depend on the exact type of battery installed in the car. So I'm not sure wheter it will be possible to transfer my experience to other individual cars.
Beat Fischer

Huh? Battery cut-off switch? Car in wintersleep?

Why don't you just DRIVE the car?
Bram

Why wintersleep?

1. Because there are piles of salt on our roads in winter which will hurt this mild british steel ;-)

2. Because I dont't need to buy winter-tyres for the F

3. I kept my "normal" Ford Escort when I bought the F. Easy and cheap in CH because you can run two cars on the same insurance and set of plates.
Beat Fischer

Because I have to give a change to my other MG's to be driven as well the F is less in rotation, hence the master switch.
Beat them them tomorrow Beat.
Bas

Hi Bas

Installed the battery switch on my F yesterday. No problem closing the bonnet. There is at least 2cm space left. As I said: Be careful because my findings depend on the height of the battery, which may be different from yours.

Regards
Beat
Beat Fischer

Congratulations Beat!! Could you give me (us) the height of your battery casing excl poles please.

Thanks, Bas
Bas

Hi Bas
The height of my battery casing (without poles) is 17 cm.

Bye and merry X-mas
Beat Fischer

Bas, may be a bit late now but if you are still looking for the race style kill switches, I have found a very nice one here >> http://cars.potn.com/product_info.php/cPath/2913_3185/products_id/1812019?PHPSESSID=c560cd302c595370159218efafb86a92

Phil Brindley (Work)

Thanks Beat and all other contributors,

Also best wishes for the festive season.

Bas
Bas

This thread was discussed between 12/12/2003 and 24/12/2003

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