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MG MGF Technical - Tie bar poly bushes - how long will it take?

As the subject says... how long has it taken people to change their own tie bar bushes for poly ones? is this an evening job at all?

Chris
Chris Tromans

A couple of hours and scraped knuckles.

Be sure to tighten the tie bolts so the bushes squish to about half their thickness.

The toughest bolt is the one in the sub-frame (it has a captive nut so that helps a little) you may need to get at it from above.

And get the tracking done afterwards.


Tim
Tim

Ok,

I think I'll try and get it done tonight and also pick up a bus timetable on the way home for tomorrow morning just in case ;-)

Cheers

Chris

ps. got enough scraped knuckles from changing the shocks at the weekend so a few more won't matter...
Chris Tromans

oh bugger it...

Got the first side done in about 45 mins starting from about 6.15pm...

However, it is 00:21 and Velma is in the carport still on one axle stand :-( I gave up with the second side due to fading light (about 2 hours ago)... the new poly bushes went in fine, started tightening the main bolt (tie bar to lower arm) so the other bolt (tie bar to subframe) would slide through the holes - but couldn't for the life of me get it through into the thread the other side!!! it just wouldn't line up :-(

Now got a mate coming over in the morning to give me a hand... once that bolt is in, its a 10 minute job to finish up, torque up and get the wheel back on...

Had to also phone my boss saying I will be late in to work in the morning :-) Unfortunately he knew exactly what I was doing tonight... he still found it slightly amusing though.

I'll give an update in the morning once I'm in work... hopefully by car.. but it might be by train or a mate's lift...

Cheers

Chris

ps. I've taken lots of photos of the process and my handywork :-)
Chris Tromans

>but couldn't for the life of me get it through into the thread the other side!!! it just wouldn't line up :-(

That's exactly what Tim reffered to with *scraped knuckles*.
Me had this interference aswell on one side only :)
The other just slipped in.

Keep the big end at the wish bone loose and try lifting just the hub with help of a second car jack while the body remains on axle stands.
This may give the missing few degrees of _rotation_ for the rear tie bar _eye_.
Dieter

>This may give the missing few degrees of _rotation_ for the rear tie bar _eye_.

Apology, I mean ...
This may give the missing few degrees of _rotation_ for the small tie bar _eye_.
Dieter

Thanks Dieter,

We will give this a go in the morning and see what happens...

For reference to anyone reading this in the future - my "difficult" side is the drivers side - the one with the small pipe in the way as well down there...

Chris
Chris Tromans

Both sides are now done :-)

And the drive into work definately felt more positive under braking and cornering... I could brake quite hard with no snaking of the back end.... which makes a change...

In the end the easiest way to do it was to take the large 18mm bolt off completely then, as Dieter suggested, put a trolley jack under the hub with the handle of the jack pointing towards the front of the car (the direction is important!)... then jack up the hub slightly and you will notice it pushes the hub upwards and backwards which moves the other end of the tie bar so that it lines up better.. then, because the tie bar is completely loose its easier to move it around to get the bolt through.

Hope this helps anyone else.

Chris
Chris Tromans

A couple of pics...

The bushes in place:
http://pc14.hyperknowledge.com/velma/dscn2649.jpg


The new Gaz shocks in place as well:

http://pc14.hyperknowledge.com/velma/dscn2650.jpg


Cheers

Chris
Chris Tromans

Great work Chris - and nice pictures! :o)
Rob Bell

This thread was discussed between 12/07/2005 and 13/07/2005

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