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MG MGF Technical - Upper ball joint replacement..DIY´able?

Hi all,

upon looking for the squeeking source in my front suspension, I found some vertical play in my UPPER ball joint. This gives a kind of repetitive "light" knocking feel when driving. I intend to replace it.

But...I checked my RAVE and noticed one needs to depressurise the hydragas system.

Now, even though I have my fellow -hydragas pump equiped- MGF´ers standing by my side, I still wondered for sake of the enthousiast DIY´ers amongst us, if there is no more straight forward solution for the removal/reinstall.

cheers,
david (broken shocker, soaked footwells, worn ball joint,...)
David Peters

Hi David

I have the same problem. In the handbook it says fit a wedge between the upper arm and the subframe when the suspension is jacked up. I tried this when replacing the lower ball joint and found it to be easier to just drain the system. For the upper ball joint I would also recommend draining the system to get enough play to the upper arm.

Other tough thing will be the removal of the upper ball joint from the hub. Its a 46mm or 1 13/16" socket or spanner you will need. In the manual it states use tool 18G 1341. With the ball joint rusted into place and a socket wich needs to be rather long to not get stopped at the ball joint thread I think this will be the real difficult part.

See http://www.sfforever.co.uk -> The Rebuild ->31 May Hub Assy (Part 1) center picture in bottom row.

The thing here is Andy had to remove only the remains of the ball joint without the actual bolt in it. So I wonder if the socket would be deep enough for this.

Anybody any comments?

C. A. Winkler

Hi C.A.! Thanks for confirming my greatest fears.
Getting the (rusted) ball joint out of there. Did you get the taper joint off easily (although the lower one doesn´t have this IMO)? As the manual states the use of yet another tool;-D


Anybody seen the 18G 1341 ball joint removal tool? There are some internet store that sell rover tools. I´ll have look. But it must be some sort of socket like you use for spark plugs, but then a hell of lot bigger.
David Peters

Hi David

I just had my MOT yetsterday and that's were the subject came up. So I havent started the repair.
I have changed the lower whishbones about a month ago, as they where badly corroded. The ball joints were actually still good but yes, getting those out was a pain too!
I also searched the BBS Archive yesterdy (if you register you can do so) and there is a lot of information on the upper ball joint and yes it seems to be a pig to remove. Contact me at cyril.winkler[at]bluewin.ch if you find a store that supplies the tool.

In the Archive people talk of of a 44mm socket, but I have been unable to find this, even from the large professional suppliers. it jumps from 41mm to 46mm and if you lok at Andys page the 1 13/16" is 46,0375mm.

The taper joint I don't see as a big problem, either with a spreader or with a universal ball joint splitter, this is rather common.

Keep me posted what you are up to!

Rgds
Cyril
Cyril

Hi cyril,

Maybe this can be of assistance:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-EXPERT-1-13-16-1-2dr-AF-BALL-JOINT-SOCKET-lowPP_W0QQitemZ220058310239QQihZ012QQcategoryZ30917QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

cheers,
david
David

David, Thanks!

Just bought the socket.
I did find a 46mm locally at about the same price, but it's a 3/8" and I prefer the 1/2".
Also ordered the the parts from Rimmer today.

I have a UK shipping address and will get all the parts around Christmas, so somewhen after I will try removing the ball joint... Guess I spray it daily with rust desolver from now on :-)


Cheers,
Cyril
C. A. Winkler

Hi,

I did mine. After removing the hub assembly I bolted it with the wheel nuts to the spare wheel and stood on it whilst using the big socket and a long lever bar to undo the top ball joint from the hub. When removing the hub, the trick of fitting a wedge didn't work for me, instead I just jacked the car up a bit more then placed a large screwdriver between the ground and the bolt that holds the shock absorber on, then lowered the car back onto the axle stand, forcing the top arm up. A sharp tap on the tapered mount of the top ball joint freed it from the top arm. I was then able to undo the 3 bolts fomrthe lower arm and free the hub.
Keith

Hi Keith

I have the hydra pump so not actually woried about that part... Was it easy to remove the lower bolts? I changed the Whishbone a month ago and it was a nightmare geting these bolts out.


Cyril

Hi - found this useful article for anyone wanting to attempt this.

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/mgfball.html

Anyone got a picture or link as to where to place the "wedge" in the absence of hydra pump?

thanks

Rob
R Walker

Take look here. I used a cold chisel as a wedge. Somewhat more reliable than wood and a perfect wedge profile for this job.

www.mynos.co.uk
Ken Waring

For the ball joint remover, is 19mm jaw spacing enough for the F or should I say Maestro *LOl*
David Peters

This thread was discussed between 12/12/2006 and 18/12/2006

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