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MG MGF Technical - washing degreasing motor

Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the best way to degrease / wash or steam clean a MGF motor without wetting the electricals?

The motor is still in the car. I just want to remove some oil/dirt that has accumulated over the years to smick it up a bit.

Cheers from Oz..

Sue Wilson

I spray degreaser let it soak for an hour or so then hose it off. I have not found water on the electrics ( VVC ) to be a problem as everything seems to be out of the way.
Andrew Regens

Thanks Andrew,
I'll give it ago next time I change the oil. I was told by a MG dealer not to even attempt to clean it,"if it's going alright don't worry about it" and because of this I became cautious, but I like a clean motor and now I've got reassurance from someone who owns an MGF and has done the task, I thank you and now I can sleep at night...Cheers

PS I just recently drove the MGF down to Melbourne, excellent drive, 7 and half hours. The freeway is great, better than a few years ago, but then again I drove an MGF this time instead of a Commodore.

Sue Wilson

sue i wash the underside with a small waterblaster using karsher brand deturgent for aluminium boats it finishes pretty clean then i wipe it over with a rag soaked in inox a lanolin product. the engine itself i use the inox straight on a rag it finishes so fine the dust wont stick and lanolin is kind to electrics.also protects alum from corrosion
rb wadwsorth

RB - thanks and its great how a New Zealander always has to use some sort of sheep (ovine) product "lanolin" - fatty substance, extracted from wool, used in ointments. Makes sense why the dust dosn't stick. Excellent, I'll try the lanolin and I'll give it ago on the tinnie as well. Apart from no dust sticking to the MGF motor, it may even prevent it from getting wrinkles?
Sue Wilson

Sue,

Modern chemical degreasers should only be left on for no more than 5 minutes and don't let it dry up. They can damage the paintwork and some plastics if left on for too long.

Hard caked on grease will come off easier if you run the car for a few mins to warmup the motor,
then spray on the degreaser.

Rinse off after 5 mins with a fast waster jet and let the car drain for about 10 mins after that.

Then if you have a air hose, blow away any excess water from everywhere especially from any electrical wires and plugs etc.
Or if you are lucky enough to have a vacumn cleaner with a blow function, use that instead.

If you have trouble starting the engine after this, most likely condensation has formed in the distributor. I usually take the cap off and again, blow air to get rid of any moisture.

Start the engine and let it run for at least 5 mins to completly dry off any water.

Cheers,
Branko
Branko

sue. thanks for your comment.the lanolin i use is very thin called inox usually sold in fishing tackle shops for saltwater protection for fishing reels not to be confused with any product that has a thickener in it.that would tend to be greasy.i can send you some if you want. aluminium alloy has a self protector as it oxidises some products rip this layer off and the process has to start again, lanolin seals in this natural process.
rb wadwsorth

Thanks Branko,
My concern was the electricals. As with previous cars, moisture has got in and I have dried it with the air compressor. MGF's have a mind of their own and I wasn't going to go there until I was completely sure. I'll put together all options and go from there. Anyone have any suggestions on steam cleaning as my pressure washer is a truck pressure washer and it sort of blows things apart. I think I'll try the garden hose method as I don't want the MGF flying across the paddock...
sue99

RB - Thankyou, I'll give the local tackle shop a call and they maybe able to send some my way (my local tackle shop is over some 100km's away) If they don't have any, I may take up your offer. Much Appreciated Sue
Sue Wilson

This thread was discussed between 20/05/2006 and 22/05/2006

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