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MG MGF Technical - Wheel Nut stuck!

Sorry if this sounds a bit basic - can anyone advise on how to remove a stuck wheel nut on my 98 VVC? I got the locking nut cover off and loosed that one no problem. but the other 3 nuts on the wheel (which seem to have some sort of thin metal cover on them) don't want to move. After gallons of WD40, brute foce only resulted in a sheered cover (hopefully not the nut itself). The wheel brace itself also seems to be less than useless. Have you got any tips to to save my personal credibility and self esteem? e.g Do you need to remove a cover off the non-locking nuts? Cheers. (also posted on "MGF General" in error)
John Baker

John

I've posted a response on the general board also in error, because that is where I go first.

Just consider it as part of the F experience. Strangely the cover on the nonlocking nut is not supposed to be removable.

Chris
Chris

John, you don't need to remove the cover normally, it's there to make the nut size bigger. However...
Happened to me once on my TF, had to rip/wrench/pull/ lever off the shiney cover to get to the nut underneath, be careful you don't damage your alloys! You'll need a smaller size socket to get the wheel nut off.
Replacements are available, make sure you dab a wee spot of anti-seize compound when you put them back on.
Hope this helps, but see if some more experienced F-ers have any ideas too.
Timmeh

Thanks guys

John
John Baker

Hi John,

For a modest sum, a set of solid (and very shiny) wheelnuts can make the prospect of changing a wheel on a rain-lashed hard shoulder a much less fraught prospect. I forget the name of the eBay seller that supplies them but he shouldn't be too hard to find.

An extending wheelbrace is also a worthy investment, agreed the OE item is hardly ideal for the job.
Mike Hankin

i know how you feel with those wheel nuts useless... i went to a scrapyard and got a spider wrench much better at a cost off 50 pence.. mcgard locking nuts are much better invest some off them if i where you you??? you can get them hulfords
cheers

darren
darren jeffery

John

Once you get those nuts off, which are covered in soft stainless steel, on a strong steel. An economic way of producing a strong externally corrosion resistant nut.

Trouble is the tyre fitters. They usually do not correctly torque up the nuts or ensure the threads are lubricated and uncorroded. I use Copperease and torque up to 70Nm - 90Nm. They then undo with no problems.

You may also find once you have removed your corroded/overtightened nuts, that the wheels are seized onto the hubs. You will need to carefully hit the inside of the tyre with a big mallet; rotating at 180 degrees and repeat as necessary. Try to get off without angling the wheel too much (prevents damaging wheel bore)

Once again ensure the wheel/hub mating surfaces are clean and "coppereased"

Hope this helps

Pete
Pete Tipping

This thread was discussed on 13/08/2006

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