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MG TD TF 1500 - 5 speed info

I am changing a friends TDC LHD to RHD and doing a 5 speed conversion.
I went on line to check which oil to use and got conflicting answers.
One school says ATF and the other 75/90 GL4 EP semi synthetic.
Any ideas from long term users.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Assuming its the Ford Type 9, not ATF. Many use Comma SX 75W-90 GL4 as am I.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Thanks Dave,
should have said T9 box. I am a bit frazzled, it is not a Hi-Gear conversion but a fabricated steel bell housing. It is slightly wider and requires the pedal box to be modified to clear the clutch lever.
I am getting too old for crawling under T Types but I still enjoy it. It also keeps me sane during the lockdown
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Ray, Dave, (although Dave might have already seen this),
short answer, whilst Comma Comma SX 75W-90 Semi-synthetic (GL4) is very often recommended a better oil, particularly in cold weather use, is Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90 Fully Synthetic MTF (also GL4).

I can give a longer explanation and even longer explanation but I've generally given up on going against embedded oil beliefs, and historical out of date myths are rumours.

https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/driveline-fluids/manual-transmission-fluids.html#tab_syntrans-multivehicle-75w-90
Nigel Atkins

Sounds good and I am sure is also very suitable.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,
did you not see all the blurb I put about Type 9 gear oil (on A, B and M&S), I can put it up or send it if you wanted.

I thought you were around - look over both shoulders - when I also put about the use of a modern GL5(!) oil in the T9.

I changed from 2 years of use Comma oil to Castrol and instantly noticed an improvement and that was with only a syphon not drain change and in April when the weather had warmed up.

I think I also put about improving the gear lever action and feel with a better saddle.
Nigel Atkins

Ray I'd be interested in the approximate cost of your conversion to 5 Speed. Although I've put one in my TF (including converting from LHD) and bought one to put into my TC which I'm in the process of restoring who knows what I'll be up to in the future.
JK Mazgaj

Sorry, One bellhousing was made originally as a 1 off but a few more made for customers but he stopped making them a couple of years ago.
Although cheaper than Hi-Gear they are a PIA to fit.
It is wider and needs a new cross shaft also the pedal box has to be butchered to clear and new floor supports made.
In my own case, my gearbox is sound so I just fitted a 3.9/1 CWP around 20 years ago. I have a good cam and I ported the head, it pulls well.
A 3.9/1 diff gives just under 20mph/1000 revs the same as a T9.
Ray TF 2884
PS this is not the one I am doing, my welding would be neater and no tie-wraps :-}


Ray Lee

Nigel. Your comments rang a bell, so I went back and looked at what I used before Comma. Would you believe it was Castrol Syntrax 75W - 90! I recall that I changed away from it because I didn't like the smell, I thought that I could clearly detect sulphur, which put me off. Just had a quick look at the MSDS and didn't see it there, but then they rarely list everything.
Dave H
Dave Hill

I must confess that I found Hi-Gears' modification ( the new one which means cutting a cross member not move the engine forward) well engineered and with easily followed instructions. Probably why it was a no boner when I decided to fit on in my TC.
JK Mazgaj

Dave,
the Castrol is a Ford (Type 9) specification approved gear oil. I have no proof but I'd guess it'll be a (minor) development of the original Ford gear oil which was just dyed red, possibly even made by Castrol and put in Ford labeled bottles to be sold at a price premium by Ford dealerships (though Ford don't seem to have it for sale at this time on their spares site).

Don't be fooled by the marketing the Syntrans seems to me like it might be a reasonably old fairly conservative blend, nothing modern (frightening).

Whilst oil companies are very guarded about what's in their products sulphur isn't exactly a specially highly developed secret ingredient so I'm sure if we asked Castrol they'd say if it was in their product.

We should all use whatever gearbox oil helps us sleep more soundly at night, the fact that you've actually changed your oil puts you ahead of many (most?) that have decades old mixture of oil, water, muck/crud, contaminants, in their gearboxes.

I'll do a thread with the Ford oil info as I didn't before on here. I used a modern GL5 oil! but of course I can't take the car anywhere near a G5 mast. :)
Nigel Atkins

You are probably right, the Comma oil does the job, even if it isn't perfect. It certainly doesn't have the same strong sulphur smell as the Castrol product does, presumably coming from the particular EP additive they use.
It was easy to change the oil because my gearbox is a rebuilt one with a drain plug. The problem at the moment is that I can't get the level plug out, and I have tried absolutely everything that can be done from underneath to the point of rounding the socket. Yes, I know the solution is to go from the top or remove the box altogether, but I just don't have the enthusiasm to do it at the moment, plus its darn cold in my garage. If and when I get around to fixing it, I'll replace the cast iron nonsense with a brass plug and make sure its easier to remove!
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,
Castrol might have added a sulfur smell to reassure some purchasers. :)

I've never had any trouble with the 10mm hex socket on my iron filler plug, good thing too as I have check the level and top up every 6 months thanks to ... well that's another story.

You give a perfect example of why I always suggest checking the filler plug comes out before draining, and (if the two plugs are the same) to use the plug in best condition in the drain hole as it's easier to replace the filler plug later (provided it's not in too tight).

I insisted on a hole and grommet in the passenger footwell so I could access the fill/level plug without going under the car.

Perhaps, if you've not already got one, putting in a side access point would give you more room, leverage and options of tools to get your plug out.

Clean round plug, soak plug in PlusGas and leaving at least overnight and then try tightening before loosening, if that doesn't work, repeat whole process including soaking overnight and try again.

It may be you have to sacrifice a tool (screwdriver, bar, socket) to firmly wedge and jam in the plug socket to get the plug removed. Willy recently suggested Torx but anything that jams in is fine (provided you get the plug out of course otherwise you've two items seized).
Nigel Atkins

This is what I use in my T-9: Genuine Ford Fluid XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart

Available on Amazon
Gene Gillam

The smell of sulphur makes me concerned about any yellow metal parts.
Making an access hole is certainly work considering. The gearbox cover is the plastic type provided by Hi- Gear Eng. I've a feeling that the plug pretty much lines up with the ply floor, so access will still not be easy, but at least I won't have to have my back on the concrete floor. I tried soaking in various penetrating fluids and used Eze-outs (cut down for access) but no good. I'll have to cut a slot in it and try to drive it round with a hammer and chisel edge. The irony is that the plug has been in and out a couple of times on initial filling with oil, then changing it, but stuck after that. Makes no sense, though I have heard that this problem is not unique to me.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,
you're mixing up GL4 and old GL5, but if you are concerned best you stick with what don't worry you.

I think if you are working from below and pulling down towards your body unless you are used to it because it's not a natural position you're not so used to the feel so are more likely to overtighten thinking you weren't able to put in the torque you actually can, well that's my excuse anyway.
Nigel Atkins

Thanks Gene, I've added more details to the other thread (altho' I can't bring myself nowadays to promoting Amazon).
Nigel Atkins

A converted BMW for XPAG
A small gearbox for 200 hp.

YS Strom

Improved hardwearing (red) heavy duty saddle that improves the changes and feel of changes over the genuine Ford and aftermarket (black) saddles, and the rattly harsh metal race spec version.

Red heavy duty saddle - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-Sierra-Type-9-Gearbox-Gearstick-Gear-lever-plastic-H-D-Saddle-clip/154209874148?hash=item23e79ff0e4:g:GEQAAOSwlxRfJRN4

Second photo includes a modified Ford T9 gear lever.








Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 24/11/2020 and 26/11/2020

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