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MG TD TF 1500 - Another Moss Issue.

First I have not yet contacted Moss so dont yell at them too much.

Back at Christmas time I ordered a "Made In the UK", Mohair canvas, Tonneau from LBC. Delivery was quoted at 16 week.
It came early in the month.
Since there are 16 or so Lift-the-dot snaps I decided a Lift-the-dot tool was in order. I will still need it when I get a matching top.

There happened to be two on eBay at the time. I procrastinated and did not bid on the first one, which went for under $15.
I bid $20 on the second, using Auction Sniper, and lost out. There seemed to be some issue with my eBay account.

So I contemplated making my own. Moss wants $70 for the tool. Then I noticed it was on sale for $50 and $46.50 at LBC. So I bought one and it came Friday.

The tool has a round center hole punch and 4 knife like appendages that should add the slits for the teeth on the snaps.

It was made in China. Right away I was apprehensive. The tool was not particularly sharp. I sharpened up the 4 slitting blades. You could not get to the center punch with any tool I had. They were able to be sharpened with a file so they were not particularly hard.

I laid out the Tonneau and carefully marked out the rear snaps. One at a time.
I was using a soft pine board under the punch.
On the 4th snap two of the slitting blades broke off.

They were at diagonal corners so I could still engage the snap, and mark the position of the two other teeth and cut the required slits with an eXacto knife.
I switched over to using a 1/4" thick piece of expanded foamy soft Polyethylene under the punch, on top of the pine.



On the eight snap, (eight more to go) the remaining two slitting blades broke.

I do not see much use in sending it back since the replacement could be just as bad.
I have ordered some 5/32 Water hardening Drill rod. Which will be here Tuesday. The shanks are turned to 1/8.
I intend to drill out the broken shanks and make some new ones.
I may harden and draw them or just use them in the annealed stage. I will compare them to the old ones using the "Old File" test.

At least at this point I can sharpen the edge of the center punch.


If any of you are contemplating purchasing one of these from Moss I would suggest you look elsewhere. Perhaps directly from the Lift-the-dot manufacturer.

I will contact Moss tomorrow and let them know, their tool is less than satisfactory.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin

Really. A special part just for this?

Just use a pencil to spot the stud location (make sure you pull the cover to the right place under tension). Then get yourself a wheel punch ($9.99 at Target) and cut out the stud location. Then take the backing plate, position it over the stud hole in the alignment you want and use your pencil to mark the 4 slots.

Now using an Xacto knife just stab each of the marks all the way through. Don't let it get bigger than 1/4" wide. Now push the studded cover through the slots, slip over the backing plate and rest the cover on a firm surface on top of a towel. Use a small hammer to peen the tabs over. Repeat.
Christopher Couper

Yep, that's how I do it, too, Christopher. Simple job.
Kevin McLemore

I had done it that way on the carpet. That was only 3 or 4 snaps and I din not find it that easy.
with a top and Tonneau to install I thought the tool would be easier.


Wrong!

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I had the same problem. In fact I sent one tool back because one stud was broken in the package. Got about halfway through the job with the replacement when the studs started breaking. We finished using the x-acto method. Decided not to make a fuss, but the tool is definitely lacking.

Jim

J Barry

At least you got to use yours. I bought my tool almost a year agofrom Moss and went to use it for the first time several weeks ago. when I took it out of the box, the tool sealed in plastic already had to cutters knocked off of it. I haven't called them yet either
W. A. Chasser Jr

I'm installing a new full tonneau also. I tried the exacto knife approach but after reading a good article on an MGA site I learned you don't need to even do that! Just drill your center hole then place the piece with the tabs over the hole on top of a soft board. Then place a 1" dowel over the piece and give it a good smack with a hammer. All 4 tabs perforate the tonneau perfectly and are ready for folding over!
As for the hole, I got a revolving wheel thing but it does not make a large enough hole. Also tried a $2 buck paper punch. Forget that! I couldn't find an arbor punch where I live so I tried to sharpen the inside of an old 5/16" socket to make my own. It would have worked but I didn't have the right size grinding wheel to do it. So I got out my soldering iron, smacked a small hole in the tonneau, then carefully rounded it out with the soldering iron. It makes a perfect fit and "seals" the edges of the hole as well.
Ed

efh Haskell

The best way to make perfect holes in such materials is using a cork borer. Buy a complete set, you would be surprised at the uses you find for them.
Dave H
Dave Hill

I talked to Kelvin at Moss, explaining the situation to him. He said he will flag the part and look into it.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I bought tool from some boating supply company some years ago. It came with a hard plastic backer block and worked perfectly. I installed exactly one tonneau cover (Moss Stayfast) and it worked beautifully. Will look at it tonight for brand, etc. George
George Butz

This is the punch from the boat supply place.

George Butz

This looks like George's. Expensive, but I guess you pay for quality.

http://www.amazon.com/Lift-Hand-Punch-Hoover-Brand/dp/B00A43TBJO
David Littlefield

Actually, the Hover Brand is $60
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lift-The-Dot-Hand-Held-Punch-Hoover-Brand-Shipped-from-The-USA-/321686872649?hash=item4ae6082249&vxp=mtr

and the Moss, at full price is $70.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

This thread was discussed between 21/06/2015 and 23/06/2015

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