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MG TD TF 1500 - Body to chassis rubber

Reading the archives it appears solid Neoprene Rubber Strip between the body and tub is the way to go. However what thickness is recommended please.
JK Mazgaj

Are you talking about the area between the firewall and body bucket all those bolts go through?

I am not sure that the consensus is a rubber strip. Everyone I know is still using the caulk strips like are found on motor home windows etc. This usually dries over time and is painted as one unit.

If you do decide to use a rubber strip here I would not paint it because the paint will just flake off over time. The thickness should be about 1/8".
Christopher Couper

For the firewall to tub, I used 3M 08578 Strip-calk Black.

I place one of the strips on either side of the bolt holes and then tightened the bolts. A small amount may squeeze out over a day or so, I just used a razor knife to trim it back to the edge of the firewall.

If you are talking about from the tub to the frame, they are about 1/8 inch, but you typically need to adjust the thickness to keep the doors in alignment.





Bruce Cunha

Sorry meant between the tub and chassis. Originally I believe felt was used but as stated in the archives this seems to have been substituted with rubber due to not absorbing moisture. I'll review the 3M caulk
JK Mazgaj

JK,

I use a tough nylon type product fitted between the
body tub frame and the chassis mounting points.

This product does not absorb moisture, compress or
split.

Rubber tends to compress over time which may change
the door fits etc.

Both the TF 1250 and the TF1500 have this material
in position with no door position changes. The TF
1250 total restoration was completed 16 years ago.

With regard to the pack piece thickness, each car will vary ranging from one-eighth inch even up to a quarter inch for the different contact points - tub to chassis. The different sizes can influence the door fit and lock position to a surprising extent.

Rob Grantham
Rob Grantham

From the tub to the chassis mounting points originally a heavy fiber like product in 2" pads were used. As was pointed out these were often stacked or came in different thicknesses that allowed the shop to open or close the door openings.

As was pointed out above, whatever material you choose needs to be firm, not change over time and ideally not absorb moisture. Rubber is not a good candidate. Some of the plastic like material that is non compressible is suitable.
Christopher Couper

As a follow up to this question although to most the answer may be obvious I will ask what is the purpose for this "packing", Logically it is two fold. One "anti squeak" and secondly to allow adjustment. As capillary action may/will lead to deterioration possibly due to the action of a ridged and therefore wearing packing. I seem to have more questions in my head than answers.
JK Mazgaj

'Logically it is two fold. One "anti squeak" and secondly to allow adjustment.'

You have got it.
Christopher Couper

This thread caught my attention as I'm making two sets of floorboards, one for our old "preservation" and the other for our basket case we bought 20 years ago. Today, I ripped the old floorboards out of the running TD and I keep eyeballing the basket case rough tin components and the rolling chassis TRYING to recall all the details of fitting everything together.

It reminded me, too, I just ran across my old black strip caulk from a couple decades ago. I believe it is too old and brittle but maybe a bit of heat will rejuvenate it.

I really wanted to share a couple of stories on "precision fitment."

My good friend & neighbor was working for Ford Research. They gave a new-hire a stack of shims to insert between the front fender and the chassis. Here comes a new 1950 Ford down the assembly line with the fender sticking out 8 inches.

I was assigned to run over to the Detroit Edison Monroe Plant to examine a beam that was cracked on the main coal conveyor. You don't hear that everyday. As the structure ascended higher, the size of the steel beams reduced. The iron workers were given a stack of shims and were instructed to install them in the gap between the two dissimilar sized members when bolting them together. They got a porta power out to spread the steel apart to get them all in and fractured a flange.
JIM N

This thread was discussed between 20/11/2021 and 25/11/2021

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