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MG TD TF 1500 - Bodywork Paint stripping

How have others stripped their cars of paint ready for respray? The car has been in dry store for many years but has suffered the ravages of time with panels showing "surface rust". The metal work is in my opinion sound and should hopefully not require any major repair. I've watched "The French Platting Company" summary of his renovation where although having a sand blaster stripped the bodywork using paint stripper and rust treatment. I've read of using soda, crushed walnut and other products. Trying to decide what success a novice would have buying a "blaster" and doing the work myself. If done professionally using sand from what I've read I've only about a 4 hour window to get a epoxy primer on before the clean metal could start deteriorating. Pratcical problems whereas stripping myself does mean I feel I can get that protective coating on in time. One panel at a time.
JK Mazgaj

Using sand can be a problem as it gets into EVERYTHING. Then when you paint, the sand will come out of hiding and stick to the wet paint.

Find a shop that can do plastic media blasting. Less headaches and will likely cost less than buying all the equipment to do a proper job.
Lew Palmer

The TD is an easy car to strip. When I originally restored my TD back in 1973, I dipped all the metal parts other than the tub. At that time, I had access to a caustic engine stripping tank that took all the paint off. I don't think those are still around.

For this restoration, I used these. https://www.ebay.com/p/21004056858?iid=192735622040

Poly strip disks that go on a mini grinder. I cleaned the paint down to bare metal on my tub in about 2 hours and used 2 pads. It really strips paint fast. It leaves the metal ready for primer.

I stripped off Imeron paint. That is a hard paint, and it had no issue taking it and the primer off.

I also used it on the fenders that had been coated with undercoating. It took a bit more work, but it cleaned off the undercoating.



Bruce Cunha

back in the 80's, when I stripped mine, on the late night commercials, there were these wire wheel "Thingies". About 1/16" diameter wires freely fastened to a hub so they rotate, and hardened. Each wheel had about 75 to 100 of these. They went on chuck, and were "Guaranteed for life". I (actually my son) went through about a dozen stripping much of the TD. They worked well, removing both original paint and rust.

I sent the worn out ones back, but never heard from the vendor. I guess they decided they were dead. (No Life.)

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Sandblasting also carries a not insignificant threat of overheating warping sheet metal..that combined with the above notes on cleanup, etc stay away from sand. Soda blasting will not remove rust. Great on paint and primer..longer window before you have to shoot paint too...but it cannot remove rust satisfactorily.

Regards, Tom
tm peterson

Something like these are great for removing paint and rust...

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/PAINT-RUST-REMOVER-GRINDER-WHEEL-DISC-FOR-115MM-4-1-2-ANGLE-GRINDERS/390954065758?hash=item5b06ad9f5e:g:GLUAAOSwsnpevSZO
D Moore

I used paint stripper, a scraper, and various semi abrasive discs as described above. There can be many layers depending on how many times its been repainted. The only paint stripper that is truly effective contain phenols and methylene dichloride (old fashioned Nitromors, but not the modern version) , however these require PPE and care in handling, hence not usually available via the DIY sheds these days, though you may be able to get it via trade suppliers or the internet.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Yes I just checked on ebay and it can still be obtained. Usually described as heavy duty industrial grade paint stripper. If it doesn't say it contains methylene dichloride / dichloromethane (same thing), don't risk it. If you do use it, take great care as it can damage skin and anything else permanently. Wear rubber gloves, protect arms and eyes, at least, and don't breathe the fumes. Wash off any spills immediately with copious water.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Thanks to all for the great advice.Looks like stripping and scrapping the way to go. Dave - would 5 litres likely do a TC please. Just the body.? Regards Jan
JK Mazgaj

I mostly used flat soft faced flap discs. They worked very well and come in different grits, just takes some elbow grease working the grinder, but the results were very favorable. PJ


PJ Jennings

I stripped all metal on mine using an angle grinder with a crimped bevel brush
Needed several brushes and did a good job ready to prime
Mel Pascoe

Yes, 5 litres at least.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Thanks Dave. There's a deal on for 10 litres so will do that to make sure.
JK Mazgaj

PO had had all panels disassembled and wet media blasted (no heat damage) then primed. 4 years later when I took over the project my paint supplier recommended removal of the primer as we didn’t know if it would be compatible with the finishes I was planning to use. The primer had done a good job in protecting the panels but it was quite soft and clogged abrasive strippers very quickly. When heated by the friction it tended to smear itself across the surface. Fortunately readily available chemical strippers were quite effective in softening it before scraping. Point I am trying to get to is that you need to have your paint system plan in place before getting down to bare metal.
Hope this helps,
Chris
C I Twidle

This thread was discussed between 14/06/2020 and 15/06/2020

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