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MG TD TF 1500 - bolts top tank straps

Does anybody know a source for the for bolts on top of the tank straps?
5/16 UNF with Philips head. Length minimal 2", better is 2.1/4 because there is also a luggage rack fitted.
John van den Boorn

John, I bought new ones about 5 years ago and if I remember correctly I bought them from someone making them in Australia. PJ
PJ Jennings

I am not sure we are talking about the same bolts, of if you have a TF and I have a TD, but, I believe, the bolts that hold both the straps and the tubing frame are 5/16 BSF, with dome nuts on the outside. The length is critical since there are only a few threads on the dome nuts.

AS has these in the correct length. The bolt in the upper right is a Longer UNC used only to pill the frame into place so a BSF bolt and matching Dome nut can be secured.

You can also see this on Dave Brauns page.

http://www.dbraun99.com/MGTD15470/Tub/Fuel%20tank%20and%20Spare%20Tire%20Carrier/slides/license%20plate%20lamp%20installed.html

http://www.dbraun99.com/MGTD15470/Interior%20%26%20Upholstery/Original%20Upholstery/slides/side%20curtain%20box%202.html

I had custom paint mixed to match the interior and coated the bolt heads and washers with it.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin

John van den Boorn: When you say luggage rack I am going to assume you mean the original one, but the principle could be the same for other racks that attach at the fuel tank straps.

I am not 100% sure what the original configuration was but here is how mine is attached:

First off when the rack is installed the luggage support brackets from the spare tire rack should be vertical and not slanted. If you do that you will probably find you need a bit of spacers between the top of the fuel tank strap and the bracket for the luggage rack. Then on the other side will be your acorn nuts. In my case I have chrome plated nuts providing that spacing.

I have seen others using chrome washers but I did not like that. I think my nuts may have been drilled out too so there were no threads but not 100% sure on that one.

I am not sure why, but I also have chrome plated nuts under the acorn nuts too. I suspect that the ideal length of bolts were not available so it was just easier to chrome plate another set of nuts.

There are not high resolution pictures of the original brochures or car pictures that show this level of detail so you are a bit on your own here.


Christopher Couper

see picture for the bracket from the luggage rack.

It is true that the length is critical since there are only a few threads on the dome nuts.

I am not sure if it was original BSF or UNF. On the TF both treads are used. I assume that it is UNF because the head is round and philips. Slotted heads are more common on BSF.
Also the domned nuts which I have are UNF.

My originals bolts where not usable again so no I used normal hexagon bolts, but I would love to have the philips round heads again.


John van den Boorn

OK. Now that we know you have a TF and an aftermarket luggage rack you just need to secure with longer bolts (philips head).

This is what Moss lists as the dimensions (note that it is not a hex head bolt)

HEX HEAD BOLT, 5/16-22 x 2", BSF

So you would need 2 1/4" pan headed Philips if you can find it.



Christopher Couper

You can get 5/16-18 by 2-1/2” (or 2”) Phillips dome head or perhaps even better, Truss head UNC from McMaster-Carr. Also Dome nuts.
To shorten, purchase a couple of standard nuts. Slot them with a hacksaw at a point on the hex.
When threaded on the bolt they will clamp on the bolt in a vise.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

The domestic bolts are not the same as the originals. Reason I bought them from someone re-manufacturing them on a limited bases in Australia. Most expensive bolts I ever bought! PJ
PJ Jennings

PJ: Are these they guys you bought your bolts from?

http://bsfbolts.net/
Christopher Couper

For some reason Chris, Rob Grantham keeps popping up in my mind as it was an individual I got them from not a company. I can't find any paperwork on them to help. Hell getting old and memory is even worse. PJ
PJ Jennings

I actually made my own four(4) bolts for the Phillips Head bolts that secure the petrol tank straps to the rear body tub panel/wood.

After turning the bolt up on a lathe to original pattern, I then heated the head with oxygen/acetylene. Secured the bolt in a vice and then 'whacked' the head with a Phillips Head screwdriver of appropriate size to match the original rusted sample I had in stock.

I could not find anything like the correct head diameter, head depth and shape anywhere over here. These bolts are quite visible on the inside of the car so it is therefore worth the effort to get them right.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"), TF9177("Athos").
Rob Grantham

Rob, Do I have a set of your bolts in my TF? For some reason I keep thinking it was you I got them from. I do remember that postage was quite expensive. They worked perfectly and look identical to the originals. PJ
PJ Jennings

PJ,

I doubt that the petrol tank strap bolts you have used are from me. If the Post was expensive, I suspect that they were not from my garage as over many years I have only charged a token postage amount for virtually anything I have passed on.(lol)

Cheers
Rob Grantham
Rob Grantham

That is a good idea Rob
John van den Boorn

This thread was discussed between 10/07/2020 and 15/07/2020

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