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MG TD TF 1500 - Chromed Trim around Instrument Panel TF
| I am interested in removing and re-chroming the metal trim surrounding the whole instrument cluster on my TF? New ones seem to be either unavailable or cost a fortune as no one seems to make these any more. Is there a way to do this without removing the entire panel from its wiring harness and with that, also removing all the gauges and their connections? Merv |
| M Hyde |
#13 above
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| M Hyde |
| Even if you get it off I do not think you could chrome it. It is fragile and it would not survive polishing. Ray TF 2884 |
| Ray Lee |
| Hi…. I’m in the same predicament only I have my car disassembled for restoration. I’ve been on You Tube looking at chrome paint and my plan is to clean and polish the trim piece by hand and then use chrome paint. There’s some really good paints available that look very much like plating. I will probably do the trim rings around the instruments as well. If it doesn’t work I’ll strip it and see if I can find a plater to refinish the pieces. I’ll post pictures but it’s going to be awhile before I get to that stage of the restoration.
Jim |
| J David |
| Hi…. I forgot to add the paints I’m looking at are not spray bombs but small volume bottled paints that will work with an air brush. Jim |
| J David |
| Chrome paint will not get anywhere close to real chrome, but it could look nice nonetheless. Having a consistent finish is what is probably most important.
As I said in the thread on MG Exp, I would probably try polishing the chrome edging while still attached to the facia for support. Then removing it for the actual plating process. Not sure how to deal with the fragility of the three octagons though. The break their tabs just by staring at them. If they did not break in removing them, certainly they would polishing them. Perhaps you could have them stripped of the chrome, then hand polish them with a rag and then have them plated. |
| Christopher Couper |
| Hi…. My piece also has some pitting problems and I’m not sure it would stand up to filling and polishing with brass in the plating process. I’m going to try priming and filling with a good glazing putty to address the pitting. Hopefully it works out. Jim |
| J David |
Thanks gents. David I am doing the same. The trim I have I was able to obtain about 2 years ago. New ones if available were up to $600. I carefully stripped the flaking chrome off and gently polished the brass underneath. Then I gave it a coat of brass sealing clear. It actually looks pretty good! I am tempted to leave it just like that. I
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| M Hyde |
| Merv: It looks like you could easily have it rechromed at this stage. You have done all the serious and risky work it appears. Remove it, strip the clear coating and hand it to the platers to be dipped in nickel and chrome and it should look spectacular. |
| Christopher Couper |
| Thanks Chris. I got it off rather easily this morning by loosening several of the small bolts at the rear of the instrument panel and with a few plastic wedges behind the panel, I was able to remove the trim piece. Finding decent chromers here (and anywhere) is a real problem. Merv |
| M Hyde |
| What California does seems to spread to the rest of the world someday. We of course have been cracking down on plating for decades. Much of it was needed for pollution reasons, but I think we have tipped the scales big time at this point.
We have one real good plater in my area but they are extremely expensive. Not sure how they stay in business but they are always backed up. Good luck trying to find someone willing to work with you on this. Another thorne in antique car restoration game and another stake in the heart for old cars I am afraid. |
| Christopher Couper |
| True Chris. We could make a list of the tasks where the expertise has also gone. For example rebuilding original 4 speed gearboxes. Merv |
| M Hyde |
My trim was in pretty bad shape. It was not only bent and twisted, but it was also broken at the bottom joint. My chromer straightened it, welded the broken joint, polished and re-chromed it. Here's a photo, seeing is believing. Cost, very expensive for such a small piece, but labor was very time-consuming. PJ
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| PJ Jennings |
| Wow Paul. Could you post the name and contact of your Chromer? I will add it to my list. Finding people like that these days is almost impossible. |
| Christopher Couper |
| Merv and others: My wife and I recently spent 4 months pottering about in the UK. Went to Beaulieu and lots of other car shows plus museums. Everywhere I went, people said that in the UK at least, while there are certainly less chrome plating businesses these days, there are still a number of good ones left. One I rang said she was sorry but the waiting list was out to 3 weeks. I nearly fell over. Be interesting to hear from our UK friends. John. |
| J P Hall |
| Chris, it's been approximately 10 years since it was done, and sorry to say that the chromer who did my chroming back then is no longer in business. Now that the EPA regs have made it so expensive to dispose of the chemicals used, the profit margin is lost. PJ |
| PJ Jennings |
| Totally understand Paul. I thought you had done it recently and was looking for the lone nugget in the world that did this sort of thing. I am afraid in general that these type of people are lost forever. Not just for T-Series MGs, but antique cars in general. All the great cars will end up in private collections or museums and will basically never see the road again. The other cars will run until they don't and then get recycled. That is the way things work I guess. |
| Christopher Couper |
| We still have a chrome Plating place near us but I was not happy with their service last time . We have a new player on the block however. Chrome spraying?? https://www.doublejacksgarage.com.au/page/cosmichrome/ |
| M Hyde |
| You might check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRWAFkpKLaM It includes images of a fully "chrome" plated TD and a fully "chrome" plated three-wheel Morgan. Jud |
| J K Chapin |
| Just so nobody dies of a cardiac arrest watching the Chrome TD in the video, I am pretty sure that is a kit car. The front splash does not look right to me. Its only in the video for a few frames so its hard to tell for sure. |
| Christopher Couper |
| I think you're right Chris. The sides of the bonnet appear to be fixed in the fashion of a TF but the fenders and lights are TDish. Thanks for relieving the stress. Jud |
| J K Chapin |
| If owners do decide to have their car's Instrument Trim re chrome plated, it may to do the preparation yourself.
A reputable Plater needs to remove the original plating in order for one to then start working on the Trim. I have used various fine grades of Wet/Dry Abrasive Paper initially to then move to lightly buffing the Trim. However it is vital that owners pin the Trim piece to a stiff backboard before attempting any buffing procedures. Using tacks placed on alternate sides of the Trim perimeter(spaced about 3 inches apart) allows for controlled use of a buffing wheel. The tacks can be changed in positions to allow all trim surfaces to be eventually buffed. Both front and back sides of the Trim may be prepared in this way. Of course Safety Glasses should be worn throughout all buffing procedures. I have seen a few TF Trim pieces wound up like a cork screw around an Operators fingers as a backboard was not in use! Rob Grantham |
| Rob Grantham |
| It is a shame that no one can afford to make these at a reasonable price any longer. Merv |
| M Hyde |
| Merv, your trim matches the beige colour of the dashboard very well. Mine is red, so that won't be the case. Rob, thank you for your description of how to hold the trim while sanding. Thierry |
| t Thierry |
| Thanks Thierry. I am happy that I was able to find one in decent condition! Merv |
| M Hyde |
This thread was discussed between 01/01/2026 and 08/03/2026
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