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MG TD TF 1500 - Clutch Shaft TD 5/8 inch
I bought Moss 5/8 inch clutch shaft part number 190-320 and it's not drilled in the center for the clutch fork pin. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think for $89.95 it would be ready to install. The ends have been drilled, even the end that is not drilled, of course this is for right hand drive models. Thanks for any input. Rich ![]() |
rich40701 |
For what it's worth, here's what the Moss website info says about 3/4" cross shaft 190-330: "We make these shafts in our shop on a CNC machine. This is a faithful reproduction based on original factory blueprints and samples. In our experience, bellhousings have often been re-bushed (sometimes even cracked and welded), with the result that the shaft is positioned laterally in a slightly different position from original. For this reason, the hole for the locking pin (52) securing the clutch actuating fork (50) is not pre-drilled. This allows the installer to perfectly center the shaft (48) and the clutch actuating fork in the bellhousing." My guess is the same reasoning applies to the 5/8" shaft, but the info note is shown only for the 3/4" shaft online and is completely missing from the paper catalog. Joe |
Joe Olson |
Dan - Below is a series of pictures that I did up for fellow T register, John Brickel that pretty well describes how the fan and pulley are installed on the generator. I will also try to dig out information on how the generator is mounted with a spacer between the front flange of the generator and the front engine bearer plate. Cheers - Dave
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DW DuBois |
Joe is right on. Rich, if you are new T-series hobby, remember virtually all parts are reproduction and aftermarket. There is more often than not some degree of hand fitting/machining/modifying involved. BTW I think Dave posted in the wrong thread??George |
George Butz |
Thanks Joe, I looked for a note in the catalog and on their website for the 5/8 but hadn't thought about the 3/4. |
rich40701 |
Thanks George, I just read Joes comment. I have been slowly but surely trudging along with my rebuild for about 8 years now and restored a 67 Camaro before that so understand repo parts can be a challenge. Not sure if I go along with their reasoning on this but I will make it work. On a positive side we are lucky to have Moss and other like companies otherwise where would you go to buy a 51 MG TD clutch shaft, not Advance. Lol |
rich40701 |
I have installed new clutch shaft bushings, and test fit the shaft, clutch lever and circlip. I haven't drilled the shaft for the actuating fork yet because there is 1/16 inch side to side play in the shaft. Should I shim the shaft on the circlip side to eliminate the play? Another question, has anyone used cold rolled steel pins instead of the tapered pins? |
rich40701 |
Rich, The pin supplied by Hi Gear in their 5 speed conversion kit is a cold rolled steel pin. I used it and had no problem with it. Regards Declan |
D Burns |
The key takes all the load, the pin is only to stop sideways movement so a roll pin is OK. Ray TF 2884 |
Ray Lee |
Thanks guys, I think I will shim the circlip side to get rid of the end play and then center the clutch fork and drill for a roll pin. I also read that it is a good idea to drill a 7/32 hole about 1 1/4 inch deep in both ends of the shaft and then cross drill 3/23 at a point where grease will exit the shaft and lubricate the bushings but considering the TD shaft is croll drilled at the ends for the pins it probably wouldnt work with this application. |
rich40701 |
If your rear main leaks like mine, you won't need to worry about lubing the bushings. George |
George Butz |
Hi - you may want to consider the following. On the later 3/4 inch shaft bellhousing, the bosses are so long that I was able to fit, from the inside, an extra half bush, giving a much longer bearing surface. This may be possible with the 5/8 inch bellhousing. I preloaded all my bushes with hot semifluid grease, so wear is almost non-existent. However, would it be possible to fit grease nipples to the rear of the bellhousing bosses. If so, it might only be necessary to deal with the boss taking the operating arm thrust, with a small diameter drilling through the boss and bush, and a few small grooves on the inside of the bush to spread the grease. |
R A WILSON |
This thread was discussed between 31/10/2015 and 03/11/2015
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