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MG TD TF 1500 - dampers

Has anyone had dealings with Stevson motors repairing dampers? I sent mine for reconditioning, they repaired one shaft replaced with lips seals to both and cleaned them out. They could not remove end caps so I don't know how they cleaned them. When I got them back, a very fast turnaround, no play in the worn shaft and seals replaced but still a lot of fine black sediment in the repaired one, Filler cap seals were not replaced and were leaking, uneven damping, and not repainted total price including mail charge, 250 I then had to flush the sediment out, make new seals for the filler caps. when I eventually managed to contact the owner four days later, he could not at first remember the work he carried out. he did say the unevenness would correct it's self. I thought you would have to remove the end caps to work on the inside, clean them out and check the valves. It will be interesting to hear if anyone else have similar experience. He did end the conversation by saying if I'm not happy with them send them back.
Thomas WELLS

Hi Thomas
Stevson renovated my front dampers (Armstrong type) and supplied replacement rear dampers (the originals were too far gone) just over two years ago. All seals appear to have been replaced and the units were repainted. They have been working fine now for two years with no leaks. I would send them back if they are not satisfactory. Matt.
Matt Davis

Thomas,
I would recommend you replace the filler cap seals with solid ones as shown in the photo below. Make them 3mm thick and they will seal properly and not distort. Do not overtighten the caps. They should have removed the end caps to clean them out properly. The price was in my opinion a total rip-off. Replacing damper seals is not really that much work if you have a hydraulic press and you know the procedure on how to do it.

Regards
Declan

D Burns

End cap removal

D Burns

Thomas
I had both of my rear dampers serviced by Stevson a couple of years ago. Two years later, the lower link on one had nearly separated from the rubber bush (currently fixed using a washer and split pin to retain in place) and the other is leaking slightly - I don't know yet if it's the end cap or filler.
Stetson haven't responded to my email query and I notice that part of their website seems inactive.
I'll probably look elsewhere to fix the leak.
Let us know how you get on.
Tim
Tim Wilkinson

The main wear point on leaver arm shock absorbers is the main shaft, under the seals. The way to repair this is to replace the shaft, or to machine the bore and drop the seal or build up the shaft with weld and remachine. I don't know what reconditioned do but if they put a lipseal onto a worn shaft it will soon leak. I think I recall Declan saying he had rebuilt his shock absorbers and I did mine. New seals from Brammer were very cheap and I machined the seal housing using one of the end mills sold by B&Q to bore housings for kitchen cabinet hinges.

Happy Christmas to all

Jan T
J Targosz

The drawing below explains the situation. This is an Austin Healey 3000 shaft. The shaft is pitted exactly where the seal sits. It can be repaired by using the SKF Speedi sleeves which are quite expensive and requires reaming the bore or sinking both bores using Jan's method so the seal seats on the healthy area of the shaft. I don't have a drawing for the TD/TF shaft but I do have the Girling seal sizes.
TD/TF Front 2 of 19x30x6mm and 2 of 17x30x6mm
TD/TF Rear 2 of 17x29x5mm

Regards
Declan

Declan Burns

Thanks for the replies, I have re-installed the dampers so will see if they work ok. when back on the road. I do feel I have been ripped off though and would not recommend Stevson motors.
Regards to all, Adrian Wells
Thomas WELLS

Hi Declan,

Speedy slaves would certainly sort the scoring but they are very expensive and since two sizes are needed you couldn't simply cut one in half to do both sides. I suspect they will be too expensive for all but the best repair shops. I think the best advice to any owner contemplating getting their shockers reconditioned is to ask the rebuilder how he will repair a scored shaft.

All the rest for Christmas

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan,
They are expensive-about 20 each in that size. You need two different sizes as I have shown on the Healey drawing above. One size for the large diameter and another size for the smaller diameter. Cutting them is not on. The next time I repair a TD damper I will make a drawing and list the Speedi sleeve sizes required.
Before I learned how to repair such dampers I used a small company in Leicester called "Recon and return" which is run by Raj Patel. He is nice to deal with. I don't know his repair method but he did mention to me that approx. 50% of the dampers he gets in are not fit for repair.

Regards
Declan

Happy Christmas to you too!
Declan Burns

This thread was discussed between 20/12/2015 and 23/12/2015

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