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MG TD TF 1500 - Dashboard Chrome Bead

Hi, I'm about to install new dash/fascia chrome bead on my wife's car and have some questions and concerns about the process. And, I have spent days going over the archived posts looking for those answers. Couldn't find much detail about the actual bending process itself.

Bending around outside curves seem fairly straight forward. But, areas like the inner glovebox corners must be much more difficult to bend without kinking the bead (stay awake at night worried about it). :-(

Thanks for any suggestions and tips that might help. Especially, concerning bending the inner glovebox bead. Many of you have produced outstanding looking dashboards so I know it can be done.

Regards,

Bill
WHTroyer

I was able to straighten my original bead. I persevered with this because the Moss bead is significantly thicker & hence much more difficult to work with. Also it just looks wrong. When the two are placed side by side the difference is obvious. My fallback position was to have some brass sheet cut into strips & bent to create the profile, shaped then have it chrome plated. I agree that the thicker gauge will be problematic to work with especially the tight internal radius bends. Good luck. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I got my bead from the UK I had heard about the Moss Issue. Even the UK bead was just a tad wider. The NTG strip measures 9/16"

NTG Motor Services
282-284 Bramford Road
Ipswich
IP1 4AY UK
71 GBP
(2012)

I made a wooden form, I would call it an Inner form. Its too difficult to use the ID hole to Bend the trim around. It would have the same dimensions as the hole in the dash but be the hole that came out of it.
The Bead has holes. As
Also the bead compresses very easily. You need to put something in the bead before bending to keep it from collapsing.
I used a sheet of plastic, after the first corner collapsed.

Start from the middle and work to either sided.
Also make wooden corner forms. You need a lot of clamps. Use the corner forms and clamps to draw in the strip on the corner.

Forming The glove box was the hardest part of the dash.

The new strip does not have screw holes. You need to put them in FIRST. The strip is to thin to countersink. You need to FORM the countersink on the holes. I made a tool. I would drill an undersized hole where I wanted the screw to go.

I made a form tool with a pilot and bevel that fitted into a block with a matching hole and countersink. A blow with a plastic hammer made the necessary countersink in the strip.
Picture attached. ( I used the same, or a similar one for the door sills.

Now working with inside out form you will need to protect the formed countersinks. You want to use the holes to affix the strip to the forms as you work around the form.
Use some larger washers followed by a smaller washer and then fasten to the wooden form with a screw of some sort.

Start in the middle.
Work out. Fastening as you go.
The corners will be hard and want to buckle or bow.

I cant find pictures of my forming but I do think I took them


Jim B.

JA Benjamin

V notch the strip
TRM Maine

Thanks Peter. Unfortunately the chrome on our old trim is worn and scratched. Never going to look good unless re-chromed and that won't happen due to cost.

Jim, thanks. Lots of good ideas and wish you had pictures. I also thought about making a form that exactly fit the opening (with vinyl) and using that to make outer instead of inner bends. Not sure how to make them any other way. Do you have a recommendation for spacing the holes?

Thanks TRM. When notching, did you do it at even intervals? Could see that would help, but might also cause a kink at the notch unless all bends are outer.

Regards,

Bill
WHTroyer


Bill, if your going to buy raw new trim that's already expensive by itself, another option might be to call Craig Seabrook in Ohio and get a quote from him. I don't have personal experience, but all I hear from others is his work and products are the best available anywhere. I have his catalog and it lists dash trim installed for $333.00. Phone440-338-5950

I know he lists new dash plywood and restoration of the full dash so it might be worth your time to check it out.
Richard Cameron

Bill V notching wouldn't work, especially so for the glovebox trim. The trim needs to remain intact as it is on display when the glovebox door is opened. I would strongly recommend not adopting that approach. See pic. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Thanks Richard. Will look for his catalog and call using the information you provided. Have also heard his work is excellent if you have sufficient time (he is always busy).


Thanks Peter. Looking at my old pieces, only the top one partially hidden by the vinyl trim had a few "slits" to improve the bend/fit (probably a recover by PO). All other pieces were uncut.

Every time I see one of your dash pictures I am taken by the quality of your work and can not believe the chrome beading shown was restored original trim. Decided to send you all of my parts so you can put then together. No hurry, I don't need them until July 21. :-)

Regards,

Bill

WHTroyer

No worries Bill :-) Part of the reason for my modest success is that, unlike my name, I progress at the speed of a tortoise. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Quote;
Do you have a recommendation for spacing the holes?

End Quote

The holes are sort of evenly spaced along the sides.
You can see the vertical side in peters picture.
Stay away from the sharp corners.
I am attaching pictures of mine FWIW. Top left are the top and side holes.
Top right are the holes in the bottom between the hinges.
Bottom is outside.

If you have existing holes in the wood, it would be well to plug them first.
It is doubtful you can pick them up and you are likely to get a screw half into an existing hole.

I use hard wood dowels.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

Jim,

Thanks for pictures and recommendations.

I've seen posts you made of you dash in the archives and think it looks great. We get hung up with originality sometimes, but these cars were modified/personalized and enjoyed by their owners.

Regards,

Bill
WHTroyer

Thanks Bill.

Just to make this a post on your topic, I showed the front but forgot to mention that you need to be aware of the fit of the glove box cover into the opening.
You may need to trim the cover to get a constant gap and to have an acceptable fit.
On the Cover leave ends proud and trim into the hinge area after you get a good fit.

Now a bot of OT.

I have a belief, that the SS dash is what MG would have put in the car, if they could have, Resources and finances permitting.

There were serious metal shortages in the TC/TD/TF time frame. The headlights went from Chrome to Paint and back to Chrome.
The cloth covered dash was less expensive in a car aimed at the masses.

Earlier MG "Sports Cars" often hand engine turned dashes.
Attached is a PA and a J2 ( might be an L1). I have been trying to save pictures as I run across them.

I, or rather my wife, purchased my TD in 1966. I scoured the Moss catalog of the time and always wanted an Engine turned dash. I still have a catalog from the time with the dash in it.
When I started the body rebuild I ran across a used dash cover on eBay. I had to have it. Lucky I did, its the only one I have seen in 5 years.

I like wood dashes in a Salon. I think an open car deserves something more "Weather Proof"

If any other members have pictures of engine turned dashes from other MG's I would like to add them to my Library.

mgtd51-at-verizon-dot-net.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin

Thanks Jim. what goes around comes around.

I found information on the required glovebox clearance (with allowances for modern vinyl thickness) in the archive and saved the recommendations.

In fact, that is where I first saw and admired your dash. It is also where (when) I became worried after reading, "I have been struggling on the glove box for about a week now. Forming the chrome strip around the door was the most difficult task I have undertaken on the TD".

Somewhat scared, thought I'd better ask for help/pointers before starting.

Forgot who posted that comment. :-)

Regards,

Bill
WHTroyer

I'll second the plug for Craig Seabrook. The beading came pre bent for the glove box. The quality is excellent.

seabrook at en.com

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

Just a note for those considering plating their dash bead trim. Make sure you fit it first and put all the bends in it. You cannot safely bend it after it is plated.
Christopher Couper

Thanks Tim and Christopher.

Regards,

Bill
WHTroyer

This thread was discussed between 10/07/2016 and 13/07/2016

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