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MG TD TF 1500 - Declan Rose-Joint Clutch System

It has taken a while, but I'm now pleasantly driving with a clutch linkage system containing Rose joints provided by Declan Burns. The reason that it took so long (about 2 months) was because of a damaged pedal box.
Some time in Lazarus' history someone apparently thought that the flat bottom of the pedal box would be a good place to place a jack. The bottom got pushed in about an 1/8 of an inch. Just enough to clear the clevis pin area of an OEM clutch rod, but just enough to contact the Rose joint.
Here's what the new linkage looks like at the sump end. Next image will show the typical bent rod that I replaced. The new system is amazingly smooth. Bud


Bud Krueger

What I replaced:


Bud Krueger

Here's what comes in the package.


Bud Krueger

I've had mine from Declan for over a year but unexpected distractions have prevented me from installing it. These two threads will be very helpful when that magical day finally happens.

Did you drill a new hole in the bell crank on the sump as is sometimes suggested?

Is that bell crank original? It looks like brass. Mine is the color of old oil and dirt so I don't know what it's made of.

Did you have to remove the excluder to install Declan's system?

Thanks.

Jud
'53 TD
J. K. Chapin

It's assumed that you have the O'Conner mod hole in the crank already. You just drill it out to 8mm.
See http://www.ttalk.info/ClutchLinkageFix.pdf

It's brass, as are all that I've ever seen.

No need to remove the excluder. An additional problem that I had was that Lazarus was built during the clutch cable days. The pedal box didn't have the large hole in the bottom until I put a 1 3/8" one into it.

I suggest beg, borrow or steal a lift to install the system. Lying on one's back under the car is a pain. But, it's worth it, IMHO. Declan provides a goodly amount of instructions. Bud
Bud Krueger

I'm most fortunate to have a two-post and access to a four post lift. Wouldn't attempt it otherwise. I put in a new bent rod (Moss shortly after I acquired the TD)and can't imagine doing it on the floor on a creeper.

I doubt that mine already has the O'Conner mod and I gather you recommend it.

Thanks.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

Jud,

The O'Connor mod is an absolute must, you will applaud the difference.

Jim
James Neel

I have the issue of being RHD the exhaust is in the mix.

May just try the O'Connor mod first, then see if I have room to get Declan's mos in there.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Peter, Declan has a specific set of components for RHD systems. Bud
Bud Krueger

To overcome the RHD problem and even to enhance the LHD installation I have designed a new lever. This lever is 8 mm thick, quite solid and pre-drilled for the O'Connor mod. It is welded, reamed, dressed and fitted with two sealed needle roller bearings and a 1/4" UNF grease nipple. The dimensions correspond to the original sump lever. The photo is the prototype I made up this week. I have another 20 awaiting finishing.
With a little ingenuity this lever could be used to replace the original sump lever but using an imperial rose joint and sleeving the upper hole to take the original upper rod.

Regards
Declan


Declan Burns

Declan, what is the time frame on the ability to ship this with the RHD kit?

Thanks.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Peter,
It will be about another two weeks before I make up another small batch of clutch linkages.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Hi Declan,
one for me please!
Klaus
Klaus Harthof

Declan, I will PM you to get a price/requirement when you have stock.

I am looking at RHD TF.

Thanks.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

This thread was discussed between 03/04/2018 and 08/04/2018

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