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MG TD TF 1500 - Door latch fell off

Door latch plate has come off. This will become an urgent Spring project.

Looks like metal inserts in the bod wood is the easiest way out (although I admite there are better ways to do it, but I’m not up to it)

Can anybody with a similar experience, make some recommendations, especially with regards to the make and type of insert, and screw.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

I've replaced all wood screws in regard to latches with 10-32 metal threaded inserts and used 10-32 round head slotted machine screws that I loctited in place.
End of loose latches and striker plates.
Google " 10-32 inserts flanged 901032-20"
Charlie
c mac quarrie

easy method of repairing enlarged wood screw holes:
1. drill out existing hole with wood drill,
enlarging the hole
2. test depth of hole
3. cut hard wood dowel to length
4. coat dowel with glue
5. insert dowel
6. drill new pilot hole
R W Hinton

Like Charlie's idea the best as it introduces a metal solution.

Simple solution. Too bad the works didn't think of this 75 years ago; but hey, I don't think threaded inserts existed in those days.

Amazon offers several choices:- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=10-32+inserts+flanged+901032-20&crid=2O0ENQNU2UCYU&sprefix=10-32+inserts+flanged+901032-20%2Caps%2C393&ref=nb_sb_noss

Any preference, Charlie?

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Has anybody used the POWERTEC inserts? - see :-

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-QTN1107-Pronged-8-Inch-16-16-Inch/dp/B073XLG9FB/ref=sr_1_2?content-id=amzn1.sym.918a99dd-4826-4c0a-be33-a6705d69c4cf%3Aamzn1.sym.918a99dd-4826-4c0a-be33-a6705d69c4cf&crid=2O0ENQNU2UCYU&keywords=hardware%2Bnuts&pd_rd_r=2729018e-6460-44fb-8af4-b6e7f0879eb3&pd_rd_w=54SED&pd_rd_wg=GhfYB&pf_rd_p=918a99dd-4826-4c0a-be33-a6705d69c4cf&pf_rd_r=JQANTQCSPVA0XTNBC46K&pid=DqIowqJ&qid=1677796674&refinements=p_n_material_browse%3A17548982011&s=industrial&sprefix=10-32%2Binserts%2Bflanged%2B901032-20%2Caps%2C393&sr=1-2&th=1

They use a quite different principal to secure a new bolt.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

I've used quite a few of the metal inserts just like the Powertech in my TD. I just buy then at the local hardware/homecenter store. The brass ones are fairly soft and can be damaged if put in using a screwdriver and the slot so I just use the appropriate size machine screw and a nut and put them in with a wrench. Even though the woodscrew hole may be augered out pretty bad, the surrounding wood is still pretty hard so turning the insert with a screwdriver can fail.

I use the inserts for the rear bracket on the bonnet (hood in americanese) and for the frame for the hood (top in americanese). This allows for repeated easy removal and reinstallation. It's a lot easier to do maintainence on the motor with the bonnet removed. I have an electric winch suspended over my lift to remove the bonnet.

Jud


J K Chapin

Thank you all for your sage advice.

I'm inclined to think that there might be a remote chance the Powertec inserts might pull out, so I've ordered the inserts that Charlie MacQuarrie has suggested as they seem to have a lesser chance of puling out.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

They can be had here in steel, just type POWERTEC in the search engine, they come in 3 sizes with an optional insertion tool so as not to damage the wood with a screwdriver.
PJ Jennings

Wooden dowels don't work too well. For screws to grip they need to be inserted across the grain rather than with it. Plastic plugs used to screw shelves to a wall are a much better solution.

JanT
J Targosz

I was not happy with any wood dowels that I could find for the same reason Jan mentions. Dowels all appear to be cut with the grain. My solution was to find ash lumber and drill my own ash dowels across the grain.
worked like a charm.

However, I like the Threaded Inserts idea for areas that need to be removed. I am not to the permanent Hood and Bonnet attachment yet, but that is what I plan to do.

Jim
JV Smith TD17744

Well, I got my EZLOCs. Now I need some guidance installing them.

I assume that the door lock plate is removed, and now the striker assembly is now fastened directly to the wood, using the EZ Locs, and that the door lock plate is no longer used.

Am I correct?

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

The modifications to my door latch are now complete, and I must say I am surprised at how sturdy it is, and I would certainly recommend it. I'll be at Stowe Sept 15/16 if anyone wants to see it.

I have a few of the EZ-Lock inserts left and will be happy to send some to the first folks that ask - no charge. You will have to provide the 10-
32 screw. Each latch requires 4 inserts.

I’ll mail them in a jet-pak to any location in the US or Canada.

Please e-mail me at gordclark3@gmail.com as I am presently having some problems with my regular provider.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Gord. You did not mention if this was the wood screws or the machine screws. I had an issue with the T nut on the back of the door wood stripping out. I went with steel wood inserts, that I also used a bit of glu on. Like yours, it worked very well.
Bruce Cunha

Thanks for the reminder, Bruce.

These EZ-Lock inserts are threaded only for machine screws, and because the holes on the latch-plate are depressed, I had to use 10-32 flat head machine screws. Of course, being Canadian, I used Robertson socket screws.

I used carpenters glue to set the EX-Lock inserts.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, QWué.
Gord Clark

Metal inserts seem the best, but whatever method you choose NEVER use a dowel method of repair for enlarged holes in wood. The screw would then run parallel to the grain in the dowel. A much more effective wood repair is the use of wood plugs. Drill the hole and use wood plugs cut from your desired wood and glue those in place, drill to proper size for the screws that attach the latches. The screw in the new hole will be perpendicular to the wood grain as it was in the Virgin wood.

Regards, Tom
tm peterson

I might try a plug cutter. This would create the plug with grain in the best direction.

Peter Dahlquist

There are few different types on the market, that is one type that will work. Link to image of another type is included.
Regards, Tom

tm peterson

I can't see how a wooden dowel can be stronger than the EZ lock insert. Believe me, it's rigid and well-set.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Gord, a dowel DEFINITELY is not.

Regards, Tom
tm peterson

What might be helpful is a luthiers trick. Plug the hole, drill and cut a thread. Saturate the threads with thin Cyanoacrylate glue.
Peter Dahlquist

Don't know if your suggestion is as good as what I have done. These EZLock inserts seem absolutely rigid and would recommend them to anyone.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, QUé.
Gord Clark

This thread was discussed between 22/02/2023 and 07/10/2023

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