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MG TD TF 1500 Door latch installation BBS discussion at MG-Cars.info
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MG TD TF 1500 - Door latch installation
| 1953 MG TD: The holes for the door latch (plate and wedge) are a mess. I'm going to drill them out and put hardwood dowels in their place. Does anyone know of a good procedure for correctly positioning the latch when the original holes are filled? I wonder if at the factory there was a template that allowed the installer to drill the holes in a general location that allowed the latch to be properly adjusted once installed. Thanks Tim TD12524 TD26711 |
| Timothy Burchfield |
| Tim you have mail. This will answer all of your questions. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Thanks Peter. Regards Tim |
| Timothy Burchfield |
| Peter I would like to know your answer as well Cheers Mate Bill Chasser TD-4834 |
| W A Chasser |
Instead of putting in dowel, use steel screw in inserts that have an internal machine screw thread and get rid of wood screws wherever you can. They are available at most big hardware stores. Charlie |
| c mac quarrie |
| Bill you have mail. If you have any queries on any of the suggested mods then email me offline. As advised the document is not for circulation. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Simon, you have mail. Completely agree Charlie. I used brass though, as I couldn't find stainless. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Hi Peter, If you can share what you have with me, I would greatly appreciate it. dirtydish AT comcast DOT net thanks, Frank TF1414 |
| Frank Cronin |
| Frank you have mail. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Tim, Plenty of information on T-Talk about setting up door latches. http://www.ttalk.info/Door_Catches.htm Blair |
| Blair Weiss |
| Some good suggestions there Blair. However I believe that if the locks are set up to wholly engage as they did when they left the factory the additional precautions involving safety locks are not necessary. Most of the horror stories of doors opening at 60 mph can be traced back to loose wood screws at both striker and lock which permits excessive movement of both striker and lock resulting in unexpected disengagement. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Peter Do you mind sending the information my way? jcosin01 at gmail dot com |
| J Cosin |
| Mr Cosin, you have mail. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Charlie's suggestion for the threaded steel inserts is the best fix. Be sure to use steel not the brass inserts. Brass is too soft to work in the ash. Stainless steel is best. |
| P. Hejmanowski |
| Peter, when possible I would like to receive your mail to. Greetings, John |
| John van den Boorn |
| I had no issues using brass PH. They worked just fine. I'd have preferred stainless but they weren't available. John I'll need your email address. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Peter, Please send me your door latch installation instructions as well. I greatly appreciate the effort that you put into this. Thanks, Kirk Trigg |
| Kirk Trigg |
| Charlie, can you give us a source for your steel inserts. Thanks Tim |
| Timothy Burchfield |
| Sure. John and Kirk please email me at pjbm at bigpond dot com. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Kirk you have mail. John van den Boorn if you would still like a copy I'll need your email address. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| http://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-150pcs-Plated-Threaded-Nutsert/dp/B01I3Y0ZHC/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1521988267&sr=1-2&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A5485702011 But you need the tool as well. Problem is you must install exactly where you want it. It will not be any good "just off a bit" on more than 1 installed unit. 
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| M Grogan TD23816 |
| Using a threaded insert in lieu of a screw doesn't solve the problem, as M Grogan so correctly points out. The approach I've used enables the use of captive nuts in concert with the insert. Inserts can be installed without the use of a special tool however, by using a perfectly fitting cabinet maker's screwdriver in the head of the insert or by using a 6 mm bolt and a couple of nuts. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| M Grogan, I don't see how those would work for the door striker plate. The swelling on the nutsert looks like it would split the latch pillar wood. Am I missing something? Tim |
| Timothy Burchfield |
| I was commenting on post from c mac quarrie above. This might work for other areas but not for the door latches. Too much movement. |
| M Grogan TD23816 |
| Thanks M Grogan, that clears it up. It would be helpful (to me at least) if people used their first names when signing posts. Saying thanks M. Grogan is a little awkward. lol Tim |
| Timothy Burchfield |
| OK is that better? All good. |
| Michael Grogan TD23816 |
| Peter, my e-mail is: quastje at hotmail dot com Thanks |
| John van den Boorn |
| John you have mail. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Peter, could you possibly forward this info to me also. Truly appreciated...with thanks Rich (eaglessoar45@hotmail.com) |
| R.M. gardner |
| could I have a copy too Many thanks Bob Thompson email rthompson@lincsat.com |
| R D Thompson |
| Peter, I'm about to do this work on a TD and would very much appreciate your information as well. Charlie charlieadamsmg@gmail.com |
| Charlie Adams |
| Hi Rich, Bob and Charlie. You have mail. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
| Thanks Michael. Regards Tim |
| Timothy Burchfield |
| Peter could you send the details to me as well? Thanks. John vabre@optusnet.com.au |
| J Walton |
| Hi John. You have mail. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
| P Hehir |
This thread was discussed between 18/03/2018 and 02/04/2018
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