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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Driver (LHD) Side Door Lock

For the past three years I’ve opened the driver side door by reaching in and pulling back the lever because the handle on the outside just turns without doing anything. I figured the shaft had been worn round but No, the little squarish wheel that the shaft goes through has been worn round. I don’t see any way to fix it and Moss wants US$80 plus shipping for a repop that includes (I think) the inner cover that I don’t need although I fear that my cover might not fit the repop.
Anyway, the point of this is that I’m hoping that someone has a left hand door lock mechanism that they would be willing to part with at a reasonable price. If you’re that wonderful person, please contact me at jchapin3 at aol dot com. Thanks. Jud – ’53 TD 25009
J K Chapin

If you cannot get a part with the square intact from the USA I have some.
Rod Brayshaw

JB Weld?
D. Sander

As I remember, I had the worn corners filled with braising, then filed them square. That has worked fine since 1980. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

On both my locks the circular bush with the square hole through the centre had worn. However it wasn't the hole but the male square that the internal leaver fits over that was the problem. It is shallow and can become loose on the leaver and the corners round over. Unfortunately it is made from either poor quality aluminium or perhaps monkey metal and cannot be built up with brazing or welding. Chemical metal may be OK for the female hole but no way for the leaver square. I made up new parts from brass and I was able to turn up the necessary shoulders and then file the squares. If a lathe wasn't available it's literally a five minute job for a friendly machine shop.

Jan T
J Targosz

There was recently a thread that contained a door latch that looked similar to a TD/TF that was used on Cobra Plastic Kit Cars,,, I can't seem to find it,,, maybe they are less expensive?? Or parts are available???

SPW
Steve Wincze

Hi Jud, I may have a wheel in the attic I will look today and let you know.

Ed
ECS Stanfield

McMasters sells small square tubing,,, it might be a starting point for a repair,,,,

SPW
Steve Wincze

Mine were loose and I do believe that the wheel is only crimped in to the lock plate. It may be possible to either get a new wheel, from the offers above, or fix your current one. I would be tempted to crimp it back in and secure it with Locktite 244? The type that it used to secure bearings in their races. That should fix any future movement and keep the repair from wearing.

..CR
C.R. Tyrell

Here are some pics of the offending part. The first pic is the mechanism in situ. Three more pics follow. As you can see, the circular bushing with the square hole used to have square shoulders but they’ve been worn completely round. The square hole in the latching mechanism has been pretty well messed up also. I have two thoughts as alternatives to simple replacement: (1) {D. Sander, you and I came up with the same thought] JB Weld the now round bushing into the latching mechanism or (2) if there is enough metal in the latching mechanism, drill and tap two holes and insert grub screws to lock the round shouldered bushing in place. Jud

J K Chapin

The mechanism is stamped “Silenttravel.” I don’t know if it is original or a mid 70’s replacement. This image is the mechanism removed and on the bench. Jud

J K Chapin

This image shows the now round sholdered bushing removed. Jud

J K Chapin

Second image of the now round sholdered bushing removed. Thanks for your suggestions. Jud

J K Chapin

Here is the alternate source.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/door-latches-for-mk-1-2-3-or-4-roadsters/

From the looks of how your latches are bent where they fit over the fixed door recepticals, you should replace the assembly.



Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I had a similar problem with the locks on my TF 1500.

I solved it by drilling and tapping the 4 "corners" for 4-40 screws thus providing the means to keep the bushing from rotating in the lever AND keeping the lever from poping off the bushing which became my main problem with wear.

An easy fix, it has worked for 20 years now
Don Harmer

Those are original. I did the same as Don Harmer did years ago, before finding parts to replace at restoration (either club members or eBay). The looks sometimes pop up on eBay. Yours looks pretty worn out overall, no clue as to quality of repros these days. George
George Butz

Don and George are you talking about drilling into the center of the square shaft? That sounds feasible. I don't think JBWELD is going to work. Thanks. Jud
J K Chapin

The lock body is so badly worn at the dove tail part I would fit a new lock and striker plate.

I see this as a safety issue.
Rod Brayshaw

No, the four corners of the bushing, using real tiny screws. The square shaft seemed to be hardened, and I couldn't drill. That was many years ago and I don't remember the details.
George Butz

George and Don, are you saying drill and then tap about where these three arrows are (I can't make diagonal arrows but I'm guessing you mean drill at the four corners toward the center). Jud

J K Chapin

No.

Place the latch flat on its back on the drill press ( with some wood under it), Drill vertically downward wioth a 4-40 tap drill thru the "bushing" at the four corners ( see the picture) at the orange dots. Drill thre the bushing (not the lever) , tap 4-40 and insert appropriate length 4-40 screws with washers.

This not only keeps the lever from rotating in the bushing but keeps the lever from jumping off the bushing




Don Harmer

Correction:
Drill thru the bushing NOT Drill thre
Don Harmer

Got it Don. Looks like a winner. One of the angels from this bbs is sending me a new bushing that I hope will work but the used to be square hole in the lever part is so bu$$ered (someone said I should refrain from using the B work on a British site) up that I fear it will still not work. Should that be the case it's drill and tap 4 4-40 holes which, because that will hold the lever in place, seems like a good idea either way. Jud
J K Chapin

My advice is throw it away and buy a new lock. From the images posted the wear to all the other components indicate it is past its use by date. If the door flies open it will cost a lot more than the price of the lock to fix the potential damage
Max Irvine

Jud, I have a wheel if you want it. I sent you some pictures from my phone it shows a different way of repairing it using a 10/32 screw and flat washer. Let me know on my phone 803-360-8888 or e-mail. if you received them?

Ed
TD/20709
ECS Stanfield

Ed, I received your email and pictures and I like that solution. One of the other angels on this bbs has mailed me a new wheel (bushing) so I'll have the ability to try both your method and the Don/George method. Thanks to all. Jud

ps: Ed, I didn't want to publish your pictures without your permission but other members of this forum might be interested in seeing them. J
J K Chapin

I agree with Max, the last thing you need is a door flying open. I just purchased a new door lock from Moss and I am delighted with the quality. The chrome is excellent and the fit is perfect. Moss is regularly criticized but I have only been disappointed a few times over the many years as a customer. Thank goodness they have remained in the T-series business. John
JR Mahone

Nothing wrong with Moses door latches, other than, some have too much chrome inside the wedge hole not letting the bolt to drop fully in. I solved this with my new latch by enlarging the hole by 1/3nd of an inch. My latches engage fully now and the door is tight. PJ
Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 26/04/2015 and 29/04/2015

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