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MG TD TF 1500 - End to soldering woes

Like everyone else I've had my trouble with modern solders, with the removal of lead the stuff just didn't "flow" well. I found a solution however!
It's expensive, though. I spent yesterday doing a lot of soldering work (finishing up my heating system) and prior to getting started I went to the largest hardware store in town (it's an Ace hardware but it is about six times bigger than any other hardware store in town and filled with great stuff you can't get elsewhere) and went to the welding section.
I plunked down $23 for Alpha Fry silver bearing soldering flux and another $20 for Alpha Fry silver bearing solder. It's very pricey, but boy it worked. I had been using just cheap solder and flux, and I was amazed at the improvement. (Not only did it work beautifully, but it worked so well that I found I needed to use only very little of the flux and solder, so it might actually SAVE money!)

The silver bearing solder flux actually contains silver (at that price it had better!) so as you heat up the piece you can see the flux itself turn from gray color to silver and "suck" into the joint. I think a real expert might be able to make a waterproof join just using the flux, without any solder at all!
In my case, once I got the piece up to temperature, just wiping the join quickly with the solder and it instantly filled the join with a perfect bead...

Prior to doing the work, I religiously cleaned the pieces using wire brush, sandpaper and a final wipe with a rag with a drop of muriatic acid on it. The work looked absolutely spanking new and clean.

Between cleaning it perfectly, and using the very expensive solder AND flux, I was able to solder perfect watertight joints first and every time, no problems... just like being back in the good old days.

I was also able to easily solder stainless steel, which had completely resisted all attempts using regular solder.

Just a FYI for the others out there who like me have been frustrated by soldering since they removed the lead... it can be done.
Geoffrey M Baker

Does it flow at electric soldering iron temps Geoff?
JE Carroll

It's for plumbing, JE. I doubt that it would, but maybe...? I don't have much trouble soldering electrically I just use silver bearing electrical solder and a flux pen to wipe the work. My problem had been with plumbing solder, up till now.
Geoffrey M Baker

McMaster Carr still has the real stuff.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7659a5/=w6hcp8

Its not cheep either.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Be very careful using the solder bearing flux. The stuff I have, although it doesn't say it on the container, seems to have some acid in the flux. While it makes short work of soldering, it tends to leave a residue behind which will start to corrode things. It may only be the stuff I use, but you may want to check carefully or even do a test to check the corrosiveness.
LD Palmer

I had years of poor soldering until I met a Navy electronics specialist (my son-in-law) he saw me having problems and asked how old my flux was? I did not have a clue, bu looking at the tin, I would say old. He said flux should be thrown out if it is over a year old.

Bought new flux and the soldering improved immediatly
Bruce Cunha

I Use the silver bearing for HVAC work. Also different types available...some will bridge larger gaps. Normally takes a hotter iron/ touch to do the work. Also, as you know the special flux...regular zinc chloride flux will not work. For regular ( plumbing) soldering I have had tins of flux many years old and never had any issues at all.

Brian W.
ZBMan

Oops, also only Rosen core flux if using it for electric. Acid core for general work. This is of course if your using a generic core- type solder and not solid core, like a 50/50 led tin.
Brian W.
ZBMan

Brushing the muriatic acid on the seam you are trying to solder really makes it flow well.
P.W. Lester

I just got through soldering some brass compression nipples to steel brake line, using plain old Kester eutectic solder with a rosen core. The difference is that I wiped the some acid plumbing flux on the pieces and used a torch to bring things up to the temperature where the solder flowed into the interface of the two items. Worked very well - no drama whatsoever. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

This thread was discussed between 05/03/2015 and 15/03/2015

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