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MG TD TF 1500 - Engine leveler

In a previous link we talked about how to lift the engine safely (straps or a solid frame tool to bolt to the two oil cover studs). I built a tool to lift the engine. Then I had other work to do and was away from Tucson. I got back to Tucson on Wed and was pleased to find, and buy, a used HF 1 ton folding engine hoist today. Good deal!
Now I need to figure out the best way of angling the engine when fitting it back in. Bud kindly offered me the loan of his Oberg Tilt-Lift.
In the meantime however, I saw that I can buy from HF a device to angle the engine for $22.
Has anyone used one of these? For the cost of shipping Bud's tool, to and from Bud, I can probably just buy and use this instead. As I'm not expecting to use it again in my lifetime I would think the HF version should do me fine...
When I'm done with the engine hoist I'll probably sell it on craigslist, if anyone here is near Tucson and interested, let me know.
Just interested in what people think of the cheap HF version of this levelling tool...
Geoffrey M Baker

Here's alink to the tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html
$29
Geoffrey M Baker

I have one from HF, similar to the one shown and have used it many times including pulling out and replacing a 1560 lb tractor engine. It's good for 2200 lbs. PJ
Paul161

Mine looks like this, PJ



Paul161

Just set mine in place about an hour ago. I have a overhead trolley so I was able to do this alone. Two old nylon chokers wrapped around the motor.

It went very well.

Dan Nordstrom

Pulled my A engine yesterday. A leveler is a must IMHO.



MAndrus

Just dropped the engine in the TF last week. I also have a H F lift but used a 1/4 inch steel plate drilled to fit over the head bolt studs ( With head off and install the head with new studs after engine is in ). I made a corn field guess where the pickup point should be and drilled a hole 2/3's of the way back from the front of the plate for an eye bolt. With the transmission on the engine the angle was just right. It took less than five minutes to drop the engine and transmission in and an hour to get the nut on the rear mount.
F. Driver

The HF units work, they just take a lot more muscle to turn the crank than the higher quality units. The heavier the engine, the harder it gets. If you're only going to use it once, I see no need for anything better.
Steve Simmons

F. Driver, et al -

Can you attach the rear rubber mount and support bracket to the gearbox before installing the engine and gearbox into the car?

I installed the rear mount onto my gearbox before installing it. Simple to insert the two mounting bolts through the bracket into the cross member. The engine was in the car (supported by a jack) so I installed the gearbox through the cockpit. Don't know if it could be done from the engine bay with the gearbox connected to the engine.

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

Lonnie, the problem I ran into is either the original threaded rod of the rear mount was too short which I doubt or the rubber transmission mount parts were too thick. Just another problem solving adventure. The real problem with trying to keep these cars like the factory made them is we do not have the same parts.
F. Driver

Been discussed before -

Grind a chamfer on all corners of the rubber mounts where they meet the inside corners of the support bracket. I bought a rubber grommet for the threaded fork from Abingdon Spares because it is thinner than the one that comes with the Moss rubbers. Or grind the Moss grommet thinner.

I needed to compress the rubber fully into the support with some clamps to be able to thread the nut onto the fork.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

This thread was discussed on 21/09/2015

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