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MG TD TF 1500 - Engine Side Plate

I have always had trouble sealing the engine side plate and am considering buying one of the updated gaskets. However some time ago I rubbed the face of the cover against a sheet of emery cloth on a glass surface. This showed the cover to be distorted at several points. I corrected this by tapping the cover against a flat surface and reassembled it with a new gasket. I have now removed the cover again and it distorted once more. The area around the bolt holes looks to be a little flattened and it is possible the bolts are causing distortion as they are tightened. I have been looking at aftermarket, aluminium covers but don't like the way they are scalloped out in the centre, similar to the original steel ones. Can I simply make a flat cover out of a piece of aluminium. I would of course engineer a suitable breather.

Cheers

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan, what kind of gasket are you using. Since I installed Tom's silicone(?) rubber gasket with my original, probably distorted, side plate, I haven't leaked a drip.

Jud

J. K. Chapin

Jan,
the gasket is held clear of the original plate and forms a baffle stopping oil carry over into the breather (there is an awful lot of oil sloshing around the tappet block). The main reason for leakage is overtightening.
Ray TT2884
Ray Lee

Jan,
I have a Wolseley 4/44 side plate which I don't need and it has an integrated flame trap which is ideal if you ever decide to fit a PCV valve. It needs blasting which I could do and I would also supply one of my rubber side cover seals. I also have the Wolseley side cover on my car with the PCV valve-see photo.
Regards
Declan

Declan Burns

I have always used gasket shellack on the engine side of the cork gasket and then put a light coating of oil on the cover prior to putting the bolts on. No issue with leaks.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce,
With my rubber seals, either for the side cover or the rocker cover, you don't need goo. It does no harm of course if you do use it.
Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Hi Jan, I use a different method of sealing the pesky side-plate. It works well, but it has its drawbacks. I really should just order Tom's gaskets because I have only heard good reports of them and that would be a much easier solution.

My method is to solder a shim over the breather outlet (top and bottom only) to simulate the "baffle" effect of the original gasket. Then I thoroughly clean the surfaces with paint thinner and use silicon sealant. I only tighten the three "nuts" lightly. It works really well, HOWEVER, it is tricky to get the silicon exactly where it is needed and not to wipe it off during fitting (unless the dizzy is out). The most annoying thing is that if it has to be removed, it takes ages to scrape the old silicon off without getting it where it shouldn't be. In my defence, I started using this method before the later options became available, and I am a creature of habit.

Tom, What is the thickness of your nitrile/silicone/neoprene side-plate gaskets? I am guessing they will compensate for slight plate distortion? What is the thickness of your rocker cover gaskets? I assume they cater for the heat around the centre head stud?

Bob Schapel
R L Schapel

Jan I am using a flat aluminium cover that might have been home made. I have never seen another like it. It came to me with the TD I had.

L E D LaVerne

Another pic

L E D LaVerne

I run a line through an oil separator catch can and it works for me.

L E D LaVerne

Bob,
I think you are getting the names mixed up. Tom Lange in USA supplies silicone seals. Mine are rubber. My side cover seals are purposely 3.25mm and the rocker cover seals are 4.2mm.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Interesting set-up LaVerne. You have no fume extraction or pcv, as such, just a vent with an oil trap.
Dave H
Dave Hill

This thread was discussed between 10/02/2019 and 11/02/2019

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