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MG TD TF 1500 - Finishing the Hood Frame
Now that the TF is at the paint shop (easily the most expense to date but the upholstery still has to be done!)I am completing a number of small jobs. One of these is to recondition the hood frame. It is nice and straight and all the pivots are tight. The only problem is dirty and chipped paint and rust. I will bead blast the thing to get it clean but what is the best finish. I like powder coating for pieces that will not be chipped and need touching up but am concerned that all the pivots will seize. What have others done? The two U shaped bars on the seat backs and the side screen frames will be coated though. Jan T |
J Targosz |
I used spray paint. Sure its rubbed away and got scratched in a couple of places, but I think its inevitable owing to the nature of it. I don't think you want a thick coat of anything or it would be difficult to fold and unfold owing to the proximity of the various bits of metalwork. Dave H |
Dave Hill |
Although I bought paint from Moss for mine, I have yet to do it as I have a broken rivet and haven't found a source yet. Powdercoating can be thick and you may be right to be a bit concerned. Certainly it is the most durable. Barring that however expoxy would be the next on the list for durability. IO would think a competent paint shop could custom mix a quart or pint to do the job |
W. A. Chasser Jr |
W.A. You could make a rivet using a bolt of the correct diameter. File the bolt head to match the other rivets and choose a bolt with enough plain diameter so there is no thread remaining. It is best to reduce the diameter of the rivet where it will protrude from the bows. When this reduced section is heated with oxy and hammered it flattens nicely without making the joint too tight. |
Max Irvine |
I have started to dismantle the frame and note it is in two halves, each fixed to the cross rails with countersunk screws. I though great I can fit the dismantled parts in the media blasting cabinet. But I now find the rails have been both screwed and tack welded together. Is this original or is it something a po has done? Jan T |
J Targosz |
Jan, it is indeed original screw and weld. We do not take the frame apart to blast. |
Rod Brayshaw |
My hood and side screen frames are painted the dark red body colour. However the front part of the hood frame, the bar that screws to the wood is a beige colour. The hood and sides screens that came with the car are black vinyl. I have seen TFs with beige, canvas hoods and the metal work does appear to be also beige. What is the correct combination? Were original hoods vinyl or canvas or were there options. The reason for my question is the powder coater doesn't have the correct red but does have beige. Jan T |
J Targosz |
The hoods and side curtains were a single layer tan canvass that had a pinkish hue that according to Moss. The mate redial has been long obsolete. The frames were the beige color that closely matched the material color. The Tan "Stayfast" will likely be the closest you'll find for a match in canvass. There may be others in mohair, etc. did not come as vinyl originally |
W. A. Chasser Jr |
Hood bows are tan in colour almost a pinkish hue. The late TF 1500's that came to New Zealand that I have seen had the Everflex soft top material like the MGA. I still have a front wooden bow with this tan everflex on it complete with the rubber that is underneath the material that sits on the windscreen frame. your advice to use tan Stayfast is the best option today or the tan Everflex maybe. It would be interesting to hear from others who have an original front wood bow still with its covering? |
Rod Brayshaw |
This thread was discussed between 04/04/2015 and 08/04/2015
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