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MG TD TF 1500 - Frame finished

Phase one of y re restoration on my 1950 TD is done. Frame is finished and off the rotissary.

Next step, cleaning up the motor, changing the clutch and throw out and mounting it in the frame.

Bruce Cunha

To some who have never restored a car have no idea how this makes you feel. It's one of the many milestones you'll have along the way and usually the first is to finally get the chassis on it's own wheels after all the hard work. It is beginning to more look like a car again than a pile of parts.

Next is the engine and firing it up!

Looking great! Congrats Bruce!

Frank

TF1414
Frank Cronin

Looks very nice.
Christopher Couper

Congrats Bruce,

Will you please tell me the steps and products that you used on your frame?

I hope to start on my frame in a couple of months but haven’t decided how to proceed.

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Congratulations. Looks great. Lonnie I used a 2 pack epoxy paint on my MK2 Jag chassis. I could do that myself and it is tough stuff. The product came from Bilt Hamber.

The chassis on my NG TF was powder coated by the previous owner. I think that is probably too hard - gets brittle. I have had to patch in a few spots on the running gear with Hammerite. Works quite well to repair.

Cheers.
Dave.
D Moore

I media blasted the frame and then painted it with Black PPG DP 90 epoxy primer.

The frame was painted with PPG epoxy gloss black paint.

Suspension, differential, steering parts were done in a semi gloss SEM paint using SEM black primer.

I went with poly bushings, and spring parts. Interested to see how they do.
Bruce Cunha

Dave. I’m in the midst of restoring TD/c 8151 and as with TD-4834 I had both chassis’ powder coated. It is an epoxy based product and is quite durable. As a anecdote, on the current project I also powder coated all the sheet metal to be used as the base primer prior to application of the SSG color that will be applied as the finished color. While rebuilding the tub with all new timbers it was necessary to reform the sheet metal at the rear of the tub for a better fit. I used a four pound hammer to coax the upper corners into compliance. The powder coat did not chip after repeated blows. Although a bit more expensive to go this route initially I believe in the long run powder coating is likely to be the most durable way to go. Any way, that’s been my experience with the product

Cheers

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

Lonnie,

If you look in the archives under "Ideal Chassis Coating" in early 2016 you will find some quite detailed information (including product names) on this subject.

Getting the bare chassis on a reference slab and checking all of the dimensions back to the workshop manual is obviously a good starting point.

Regards,
Michael

M R Calvert

Michel -

Thanks, I found the thread and PDFd it for reference.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

This thread was discussed between 08/01/2019 and 10/01/2019

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