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MG TD TF 1500 - Front Shock absorbers

I am in the process of overhauling the TD front suspension and steering, all ok but the shockers seem quite stiff, when I checked the fluid it seemed quite thick but reading the MG workshop manual it stated that the oil used is should be thin. what do you think should be used, I have some Penrite shock absorber oil and that seems thick. Also does any one recommend anyone in the UK that overhauled these Girling shockers as there is a slight leak on one of them and some wear on the shaft that rotates on the top where the operating arms are fitted.
Thanks Adrian Wells
Thomas WELLS

Hi Adrian, the Penrite comes in 2 grades, No.1 and No.2.

I use No.1 in my TF and is the lighter of the two.

Regards, Don TF 4887
Don Walker

You can get them overhauled by Stevson Motors in Birmingham.
Dave H
Dave Hill

I use #20 Motorcycle fork oil in all my dampers, with good results. It should be available anywhere that motorcycle parts are sold. If you find it too thin , you can get a heavier oil no problem. A slight leak is not much of a problem. fill the Girling shock to within a 1/4" of the top, and cycle through full motion to purge any air.
... CR
C.R. Tyrell

Adrian,
What ever you do, do not send the damper to Peter Edney for repair. A nice guy on the phone but not reliable. I was quoted a 6 day repair service a few years back (2012) which turned out to be 6 weeks and I missed out on half the driving season. The nicest spray job I have ever seen on a damper-see photo. The only problem was it still leaked. I was so $$issed off that I bought another damper and sent it to Raj Patel from "Recon and Return" in Leicester. Raj did a good job and at a reasonable price and no leaks. I decided to repair the Edney repair. I now repair dampers myself as it is not that difficult if you have access to a hydraulic press. I use two rows of lip seals on each side of the housing instead of the primitive rubber rings in the originals. One of the main problems is pitting on the shaft. This can be repaired using an SKF Speedi-Sleeve but you have to ream the bore to match the sleeve.
I use SAE 30 oil (lawn mower oil) in the dampers and some people even go for SAE 40 (compressor oil)-not 10W40.
Regards
Declan

D Burns

thanks for your replies, it seems the Penrite I used is the thicker one. I will try some of the M/c fork oil as there is a work shop near me.
Regards Adrian.
Thomas WELLS

I second Stevson Motors. They repaired my front dampers three years ago and they were in pretty poor condition. Have been fine since with no sign of leakage. Matt
Matt Davis

OK thanks for that. My next query, I have found the oil seals are leaking, I have some seals but has anyone removed the arms from the shaft, if so how they seem very tight. I would like to replace seals myself if the removing the arms is possible.
Regards Adrian Wells.
Thomas WELLS

Adrian,
I posted this on the other site about how we repair dampers. It is not really that difficult but.....
http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?46,3110480,3110705#msg-3110705
You need access to a large hydraulic press.
This was based on Girling dampers and we fit two seals on each side. The sizes are also mentioned.

Regards
Declan
D Burns

If you are fitting modern lip seals (available from BSL Brammer) and the shafts are pitted (very possible) you can increase the depth of the recess in the shocker body slightly so the seal runs on an undamaged part of the shaft. There is no need for complicated machining. The cutters used for sunken kitchen cabinet hinges are of the same diameter as the recess and they pilot from the existing bore. They will cut aluminium easily.

Jan T
J Targosz

This thread was discussed between 24/11/2015 and 27/11/2015

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