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MG TD TF 1500 - Girling PR6 Dampers

Am going to attempt the replacement of the seal (using the suggested method of using two) on the lever arm of the PR6 dampers on my TC. Reading through the various online sources I note that pulling the lever arm of f is the recommended method supposedly using the notches on the lever arm -shaft end. Am I to assume that the lever arm and shaft come out in one piece as although I've filed away the the edges of the shaft which would obviously prevent the lever coming off the shaft, the notches are not adequate -or appear to be, to allow a Snap On puller to get the arm off the shaft. Even with a bit of heat. Or have I to just persevere. Hope someone can help. Trying to press the shaft out from under the "core plug" end will be difficult because of the position of the lever. Well certainly in my press.
JK Mazgaj

Successfully pressed shaft out having removed the steel plug. Just needed a bit more pressure than I first tried.
JK Mazgaj

Point to note that there is a "tunnel" from the reservoir to the seal location which in my case on the one I've started on was blocked Cleared using a fine drill bit. It is my belief that maintenance of this avenue for seal lubrication can lead to early deterioration of the lever seal

JK Mazgaj

JK,
I have never repaired a TC damper but have done TD and Morris Minor. The important thing is the condition of the shaft where the seal sits. If it is pitted or rusted you will never get it to seal. On the TD rear Girlings I use two lip seals 17 x 29 x 5mm to replace the original rubber seal. You may need to skim the seals to fit.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Thanks Declan. Shaft on the one I did was good. However I am now considering having the other three shafts skimmed/polished to a modern seal size making them more servicable in future.
JK Mazgaj

I am certainly not an expert in this field, but have repaired a few TC dampers. When I fitted lip seals, they still seemed to weep a bit of fluid. Perhaps I did not check that the surfaces were perfectly free of blemishes? The most successful method I have used has been fitting two "O" rings to the shaft. I could not buy suitable 1/4" O rings but found out that they can be made using 1/4" round section and "super-gluing" the ends together! I couldn't believe that this would work until I tried it myself. (Special super-glue sold by bearing companies for that purpose.) Two O-rings fit pretty well in the space originally filled with the rectangular section rubber seal.

I am only hypothesizing, but believe that the original seals were not meant to constantly slide on the shaft (like a lip seal). Perhaps they were meant to be static on the surfaces and flex in the middle of the material. The only sliding might be done on the rare occasion when there was a big deflection due to a very big bump in the road.

Bob



R L Schapel

Bob. Makes sense. Also adds to my point about the "tunnel" between the reservoir and the seal which I interpret as providing lubrication. However it may also mean that as it's under pressure it may be the cause of additional potential leaks via the shaft.
JK Mazgaj

This thread was discussed between 27/11/2020 and 02/12/2020

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