MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Handbrake Tunnel Fixing Stripped


I have finally made the effort to take the seats out, to see what I need to do to rectify this stripped captive nut cock-up by the DPO.

The captive nut for the handbrake fixing bolt/stud, is stripped and worse, the hole size is a 3/8" unknown thread, which in turn is stripped, so it looks like I need to remove that gearbox tunnel cover, and have a new 5/16" nut welded underneath.

Can some kind person show me an illustration/image of that tunnel cover, so I know where to start unbolting stuff? There are seat belt mountings on this cover so will I need to remove them as well?

I can look up the Moss catalogue but the images are too small to really see what is underneath the carpet etc.

Maurie P


R M Prior

Maurie

Open this link:

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-and-prewar-forum.46/td-trans-removal-and-floorboards.3379464/

If you dont want to dismantle your car to this level, I know you can through bolt the bracket with the correct size bolt, washers and nut. I think I did this prior to fitting the tail shaft, DOB might be confusing my logic, I also had a TC gearbox in my TF so gearbox mounts were not standard.

Also I suggest you take a look at David Dubois's web page, he totally documented his T series rebuild.

Graeme
G Evans

Maurice,

To remove the rear tunnel both floor boards have to come out.

First the gearboxcover, then the floorboards, then there are about 4 bolts to secure rear of tunnel to body at the rear.

I would drill the nut out, add a short bolt ensuring adequate clearance on tail shaft.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Just a suggestion.

I crawled part way under my TD. Those bolts are accessible from under the car.
You should be able to install a Helicoil, from under the car.

It may not be the "Correct" thread, if some PO drilled the nut out too much, but it will take care of the problem without a lot of work.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Jim B:

"You should be able to install a Helicoil, from under the car."

Why can you not install the Helicoil from the cab side?

And there are British Helicoils too, no?
Christopher Couper

https://mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/or17?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=2008102822415628341
You may have to copy/paste. The archive is a wonderful resource. George
George Butz III

Chris;

"Why can you not install the Helicoil from the cab side?"

You should be able to do it underneath without removing the floor boards or anything else, except the carpet to put in the new screw.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin


Thank you gents, as always, there is an answer, however, I also ask if you have any images from above the tunnel/shroud so that I will be able to see just what is needed to remove it.

I am going to take it completely out of the car, so that a correct 5/16" captive nut can be welded to the underside.

That is the only way, I would ever do a job, and unlike the arrogant cretin, who restored this car, I refuse to do second rate work.

Maurie P
R M Prior

But your correct Chris
If you just want new threads going from the top, if the carpet does not get in the way is just as easy.

Jim B
JA Benjamin

Maurie:

Not the order you want but you can kind of work your way backwards here:

https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_carpet.htm
Christopher Couper

To remove the tunnel it is simple, remove the seats and carpet.

Remove the front transmission cover.

Remove the floor boards.

Then you can see the tunnel.

Estimate, 6 to 10 hours, IF all the fasteners are stock.

Fix the issue, reverse the above.

Rear tunnel is UNDER the floor boards, the front tunnel is above the floor boards.

Winter is coming downunder, you have time.

Peter
P G Gilvarry


Following up earlier messages about this problem - I decided that it was too time consuming to remove everything to get at the underside of the tunnel, so I took an easy way out.

Because the previous owner/s had stripped the original 5/16" female thread part of the captive nut under the tunnel, they made it worse by attempting to force different bolts into the stripped nut, and had tried various other bolt thread patterns, with nothing but failure to show for it, so it was ignored and he hoped it would go away (like empty Coke cans out the window of a moving car)

So, I ran a 10mm metric tap into the nut, and managed to get a clean threaded section to take a 10 mm stud. Shock! Horreur! Merci! The purists will never forgive me, but until I get the chance to re-weld the correct 5/16" BSF captive nut under the tunnel, this temporary fix will at least give me my handbrake capability back!

Maurie Prior
R M Prior

Maurie: Sometimes good enough is good enough.
Christopher Couper

Hmmm...perhaps the thought process of the DPO years ago. Your car, do as you see fit. Regards, Tom
tm peterson

This thread was discussed between 27/04/2020 and 10/05/2020

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG TD TF 1500 BBS now