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MG TD TF 1500 - Heater switch

Hi guys I've broken a black switch on my tf for the heater and I'm trying to find one without much success. It's a black round switch which turns to the right to turn on then left to be off it has the letter P on it. Not sure if it is original or heater has been added at a later date. Any ideas where I could find a replacement? Thanks Derek
D Barnett

Since there were a number of different type heaters fitted a picture of your broken switch would be useful. May interchange with some other British car, Morris Minor?
John Quilter (TD8986)

Sounds a bit like someone has used a parklight switch out of something
Does it just have that on-off function or can you pull it out like a headlight switch after it's turned on---
Which part is broken , the switch or the knob
If it's just a simple one position on-off switch it could be replaced with something that matches the other switches in the car
A pic of it, and what it has hooked up to it behind the panel might help identify it
willy
William Revit

You should be able to find one like this. Which is the same as in my TD. The rheostat is pretty expensive from the usual suppliers. Try Ebay.
Rod

Rod Jones

Appears the same as used on a Morris Minor. Available here:
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/cooling-system-heater-c52/radiator-cooling-heating-c53/heater-control-knob-long-type-for-rheostat-switch-round-heater-p1238288

Be aware however, there are two different types a long one and a short one. Explore the website before ordering.
John Quilter (TD8986)

I have never found the need for a rheostat switch on the heater. I use a “push on-push off” switch mounted behind the instrument panel on an “L” bracket.

Regards, Tom
tm peterson

Tom, re deletion of rheostat I've thought the same. Not on a TD, but in another Abingdon car of the same era with a Smiths heater, it's only ever remotely effective full on. I wonder how many volts are lost through the 70 year old rheostat.

I've already deleted the rheostat for the panel lights, on same principle as above. They now just come on with the lights. Redundant hole is used for electric cooling fan switch.
Peter Allen

Derek,

I went through the same search pattern for my heater without success. Low amp switches are available, high amp not so much. I eventually went for an under-dash on/off switch and it works fine.

Jim
J Barry

Jim, I would have thought that any heater, even one that didn't work, would be adequate in Hawaii.

Jud
J K Chapin

Jud,

My car is in California - "on the mainland" as we say here. I'll probably leave it there as we have very few good MG roads. Even California gets pretty darned cold sometimes.

Jim
J Barry

Yup. I was stationed in northern Main and then in Greenland but just about the coldest day I spent was in Half Moon Bay in May.
J K Chapin

Hi Derek,
I think I have what you describe. See picture. It is a LUCAS PS6
I could send it to you if it is not too expensive nor complicated from France.

If you want it new and a bit different, you can buy a 31356 :
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1098

Since it is not original any swicth would do it (mind the current of course).

Not sure the PS6 can withstand many amps.

Laurent.

LC Laurent31

Ahh yes, that is an old Lucas panel/park light switch from a Jaguar and others
As Laurent suggests, not an original heater switch if there ever was such a thing, and probably ok , the fan motor wouldn't draw all that much current--You could always drive it through a simple relay to reduce the load on the switch

IF it is this switch, there's one on UK ebay right now-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275028407247?hash=item4008f873cf:g:PckAAOSw5xphcfFO

A pic of your switch would help us help you

willy
William Revit

This thread was discussed between 20/11/2021 and 26/11/2021

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