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MG TD TF 1500 - Hot tank vs engine # tag

On an MGB engine the engine number tag could be destroyed by hot tanking the engine. Is that the case with the XPAG engine? Is it possible to remove the engine # tag?
TW Burchfield

Yes, it can and should be removed. There is a central rivet that can be punched outward.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Thank you Tom. When you say punched outward do you mean the rivet can be accessed from inside the engine block? Sorry to be so clueless, this is my first experience with XPAG engines.
TW Burchfield

Usually, on an MGB B Series I slip a thin blade under the two rivets and gently lift. They spiral in like the single one on the XPAG.
Dave Braun

TW - "When you say punched outward do you mean the rivet can be accessed from inside the engine block?"
Yes, the rivet can be accessed from inside the crankcase with a drift punch and driven out. Cheers - Dave
D.W. DuBois

Tom, I have tried to knock out the rivet on mine from the backside using various size punches including one that I ground smaller but still no luck. I even tried heating the block to expand the hole but It will not budge. I am sure if I try to pry it from the front the tag will get mutilated, any suggestions?
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor


If these are the type of drive pins with threads on them, they come out more easily if they are unscrewed.

I have used a pair of flush end nippers with carbide jaws, used to trim (nibble) ceramic tile. The pins are hardened and normal tools may just slip off.
I have been able to grab the pin and unscrew it just enough to get under the head and then finish unscrewing them.

I have also heard of using a Dremmel tool to grind a slot and then use a screw driver to unscrew them.

Drive pins shown are NOT MG.

1960 South Bend Drill press.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

I assumed your rivet had been replaced with the hollow type, which is driven out from inside the engine with a punch. You may have the original spiral thread type; see above.

I usually centerpunch, then drill off the head, then remove the stub with pliers.

Don't destroy your tag; it cannot be nicely replaced...

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Dremel tool and making a slot has always worked or me. The aluminum tags on BMC A-series and B-series engines are nailed on with these same rivets and I've pulled off loads of them. On stubborn ones I use a left-handed drill bit... it will also pull them out.
kmclemore

Does the hot tank interfere with copper based metals? I know it destroy's aluminum and magnesium.
Christopher Couper

Christopher, please see Tom's comment, the second one in the thread... he says that the copper tags are affected by the tanking process.
kmclemore

I ask the same question as Chris. I had all the pitch pine doors in our house stripped of paint by a firm using hot caustic soda. They also did all the brass handles and hinges and whilst slightly stained (copper coloured streaks) they hadn't been attacked.

Jan T
J Targosz

Like Tom said, on the original TD tag there is a central hollow rivet that holds the brass tag. I use a 5/64" straight pin punch (McMaster- Carr)that fits inside the hollow rivet and can punch it out from inside the block. I know it works because I have done 5 engines like this without destroying the plate or rivet.
Richard Cameron

To the best of my knowledge radiator tanking uses the same process and chemicals as block hot tanking. We know what radiators are made of.

Anyway a quick Google search for me did not come away with any evidence that brass was effected and there were layman evidence/comments it did not. My own experience is that it does not either.

But to be on the safe side, it might be best to take it off. I don't need the reputation of ruining someones brass ID plate.
Christopher Couper

This thread was discussed between 08/05/2015 and 09/05/2015

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