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MG TD TF 1500 - How to remove door panels?

How do I remove the interior door panels on my TF? I believe that it is a Moss interior kit. I'll reused them after I get the car painted, so I don't want to damage them.

I can find the tack heads in the hidem with a magnetic stud finder.

Thanks for your help,

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

These tools wont damage the paint or plywood. They are available from auto parts stores as well.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Capri-Tools-Nylon-Auto-Trim-Panel-Removal-Set-6-Piece-CP21076/207008220?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools%7c&gclid=CjwKEAiA_9nFBRCsurz7y_Px8xoSJAAUqvKCHScTP_UqYtp2qx-vO5gzmpjo0plGDuPvKSGCawrIkhoC9vbw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

I use a VERY thin prybar to get between the door and panel, and carefully lever out the nails that way - sort of like an asparagus fork. I had to grind mine thinner.

I start at the bottom, so gently spacing the door panel away from the bottom of the door as you get higher enables you to get at the nails easier, and cause less damage.

The hydem has a split down the middle, so the nail can be properly replaced.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

mine were put in using brass tacks, magnet did no good, used thin prybar Like tom.
TRM Maine

Well, I guess that I was over-thinking the process. I ended up using a rip claw hammer to pry the door cards away from the door frame. This is my first baby-step toward disassembling the car for paint and restoration with the goal of completing before GOF-South in March 2018.

Now I have a couple of more questions ...

1) Looks like the previous owner inserted carpet padding between the card and the door to reduce noise. Was similar padding used at the factory? Luckily, it looks like it didn't trap water and rust the doors.

2) There is a brace on the hinge side. It runs up the vertical frame and is bent over to extend onto the upper and lower frame. Is this original, or is it a fix to secure the frame and hinge? The door is solid, so even if it is a "fix", I'll keep it.

Thanks for your help,

Lonnie
TF7211



LM Cook

Lonnie the brace to the stile & rails is original, the padding not so. I suggest using small brass screws in the hidem on assembly. Obviously you will need to avoid the existing holes & the sheet metal of the door skin. It makes removal & refitting of the door card much easier. It may be a good time to consider installing the bracing with a turnbuckle, unless your doors don't gape either at the bottom or the top.. Mort has the best variation I've seen. Plenty in the archives on this. I also have a 'how to' on modifications to the the strikers, locks & door closer if you're interested. These are designed to eliminate the problematic wood screws & make subsequent adjustment of the lock/striker arrangement much simpler. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Lonnie: Where you live I would dump that carpet padding for sure. It's not going to do a bit of good for insulation or sound deadening and the potential for rust is great.
Christopher Couper

When refitting the panels if you warm a piece of thin plastic (I used a bondo spreader) and bend it into a sharp "V" you can use this to open up the hidem and insert thin screws. The plastic will protect the hidem whist you drill pilot holes and use a screwdriver.

Jan T
J Targosz

> Jan - Thanks for the tip. I'll use it. The previous owner did an excellent job of tacking the panels to the door frame. All were straight and true.

> Chris - You betcha! It's outta here.

This car has probably always been a Florida car. The last restoration was about 25 years ago. Florida rain and humidity should have destroyed the steel behind the foam.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

This thread was discussed between 01/03/2017 and 02/03/2017

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