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MG TD TF 1500 - Install Armstrong shocks 1950 TD

My winter project is to install 4 NOS Armstrong shocks & links on the 50 TD. I've been around old cars long enough to know that what looks easy and straight forward usually isn't. Especially on an LBC. Any tips would be appreciated. Also, what fluid do you recommend and what color should I paint them? (they are now bare metal).. Thank you.
Bruce Haynes

The rear ones bolt directly on, with of course the Armstrong links. The fronts are a problem. The fenders were changed at the intro of the Armstrongs with about a 2x2x1/2" raised area to clear the upper/inner edge of the shock body. You can make them work with some effort. Loosen the fender, splash apron and associated mounting bolts, and lift the fender up as high as possible (this will not be much movement, but will help) and tighten the bolts to keep it up as far as possible. There is a spot welded strap across the opening of the fender toward the engine bay. This will have to be bent upward and inward. You will need different length mounting bolts as well (I think shorter?), and a spacer or stack of washers to go under the right engine mount bracket. Those mods due to the thinner mounting flanges as compared to the Girlings. I ran my car for years this way with no problem. I think the shocks were mounted to the chassis when the whole think was painted black, but not sure about that. They are not particular pretty so I'm in favor of black anyway. George
George Butz III

My suggestion is to sell the Armstrong’s and buy a rebuilt set of Girlings from World Products. They will ship out a set and charge you a core fee. Once you change them out simply return the old cores back to World and they will credit your purchase.

Girlings are a better shock in my opinion and are the correct ones for your 1950. As stated above you must have wings with the blisters to clear Armstrong’s. You don’t really want to butcher early fenders to make this swap

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

You don't butcher anything- you gently tap or bend the spot welded on filler strip in a little. No metal is removed and it can be straightened later. I figured out how to do that in high school in fact and drove the car that way for many years! George
George Butz III

I agree with Bill.

Use Black paint. If you do change the fluid, leave an 1/4 inch space from the top for the fluid to move in. If you fill them to the top, you create pressure on the seals and can cause early failure.
Bruce Cunha

Unfortunately, NOS doesn't mean a part automatically works after all these years. Seals dry up, things get gummy, and I would still have them gone through by Peter Caldwell at World Wide.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Second Tom. To qualify my suggestion, it would be fine for a driver but not something restored to a high level. I did this likely in the mid-70s, and new Armstrongs were available, but no Girlings. There was no internet, no one to rebuild shocks, and that was what you had to do. George
George Butz III

This thread was discussed between 19/02/2018 and 21/02/2018

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