MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Installing new full tonneau

Will you please give me some guidelines for installing a new Moss #243-890 Stayfast full tonneau cover on my TF? Ten LTDs held the previous tonneau. They are secure and appear to be in the right places.

Should I wet the tonneau and dry it to shrink before marking the locations to insert LTD snaps, or install it as it came out of the package? I want a nice snug fit, but don't want to risk pulling out a LTD if it shrinks and pulls too tightly on them. Nor do I want it to sag when wet.

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Stayfast is waterproof and will not shrink after being wet.
Starting from the middle in the rear, mark and place the LTDs. Then working alternately from side to side, pull the tonneau cover tight, mark and place the LTDs. Continue from side to side and work forward as you go, removing any pucker by tensioning the fabric.

It helps to have another person hold the fabric tight as you mark the positions of the LTD sockets. Don't tension the fabric too tightly, otherwise it may be difficult to pull the tonneau cover into position and fasten/unfasten the LTDs in actual use.
Lew3

I have never installed a tonneau on my TD, but did do one on my TR3. It was not a stayfast, but a vinyl. I was at a complete loss as how to do it, so I went to a good upholstery shop and talked to them. They told me to start with the two front ones on each side of the mirror, then go to the two back ones in the center. Once I had them in place to go to each side in the middle, then work alternately forward and backward. They also suggested pulling the tonneau snug and taping it in place to keep it centered. They told me that if you start in one place and work forward that you will end up with a buckle.
I'm not trying to contradict Lew's method, just telling you what I was told, and it worked pretty good for me.

Gary
g parker

Lew and Gary -

Thanks to both of you. I'll use suggestions from each of you. Looks like it's time to put out an SOS to some club members to help me.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Lonnie,
Are you sure that you want LTDsaround the back whete it attaches to the tub, IMHO, snaps look much better.
Steve
Steve Wincze

I guess the orig tonneau fasteners were LTDs on TFs,,

Steve




Steve Wincze

Steve -

I'm using the fasteners on the tub that a previous owner installed.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Did you read this? http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/241-220.pdf
I have a punch tool you can use if you want it. Totally idiotproof and quick way to punch the holes with perfect fit of the snaps. Let me know. George
George Butz

Thanks Grorge -

How did I miss the Moss document?? Thanks for pointing me toward it.

I agree with the importance of using a LTD punch. I used one when I inserted LTDs in my carpets as shown on Chris Couper's site.

I can borrow a punch from our favorite club member.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Lonnie: Do a archive search. I posted my experience here about 2 years ago. The big issue for me was not to measure but actually stretch the cover in place and work as you go adding snaps. It takes a lot longer this way but I think the job is better.

Also the big problem is that you need to insure you have taken as much tension out of the rear corners as you can. This means putting in the LTD snaps maybe 1/4" further in than you would if measured. That way it stretches the cover out to where the snaps are and the cover is then looser to the corners. This helps keep the cover from trying to be pulled off the corners.
Christopher Couper

I 've just installed a mohair Tonneau supplied by Don Trimming in Birmingham. No problem with the cover itself but the holes in the cowl were about 2-3 inches too far forward and I had to drill a new set. i 've still got to decide what to do with the old holes and putting in some filler etc is not high on the list as the car has just been resprayed and would need a clear lacquer coat over any new paint. Only thing I might have done differently is not to go for the very light tan colour which might mark easily

Eddie
E I Buckley

The big issue for me was not to measure but actually stretch the cover in place and work as you go adding snaps. It takes a lot longer this way but I think the job is better.


Lonnie, Maybe I didn't explain myself correctly, but when I did my TR cover, that is how I did it. Stretch, and mark, then put on snap, then put the tonneau back on, and move to the next opposite snap and repeat. Very time consuming, but worth the effort.

Gary

PS: It helps if you have a helper to hold the opposite side as you stretch and mark.
g parker

With the stretch & mark approach does this mean that the dash & sub dash should be out to do the best possible job? Reason I ask is that there seem to be two types of LTD posts, one has a metal thread that just screws into the scuttle & the other has a nut to secure it. It seems it would be impossible to fit the nut with the sub dash in place. I'm not too far away from running the piping around the dash to the rear & figured I'd need to fit these posts first. Maybe it isn't that critical with the scuttle posts? Just stick 'em wherever & then place the tonneau fixings to suit? I asked about this in an earlier thread but didn't get the answer, so I too can use this advice. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,

I don't believe it is necessary to set the LTDs after marking and setting the LTDs on the tonneau. As long as you fit the LTDs on the tonneau after you stretch and mark, the location of the posts is not critical. You could set the posts using the nutted variety on the scuttle and work from the front thence rearward. As long as you work from side to side starting in the middle, it makes no difference whether you start at the front or the rear.
Setting the posts at the front with nuts is an excellent idea.
Lew3

I have had a Moss full tonneau on my TD for about 6 years. When installed it was perfectly flat, with no sagging. However, over time, when folded in the half tonneau position, it has sagged in the middle along the edge of the seat back. I would imagine that the weight of the extra tonneau material folded and hanging below puts a great deal of weight (pull) on that area. Has anyone figured a solution, or am I the only one?
L Karpman

Thanks Lew. It would seem that starting from the rear is the best approach so that any fore/aft slack could be taken out at the front. This may not be possible if starting from the front? I know there were originally no LTD's at the scuttle but I would like some sort of figured/dimensioned plan of the most practical locations. Of course I can stick them wherever, but there must be some sort of consensus on the best locations based on experience? How many? How far in from the edge? How far along etc.? This also applies to the positions at the side & rear. I'd also heard that some sort of modification to the tonneau is necessary to prevent the paint on the scuttle being scratched from the end of the zipper. I'd appreciate any advice. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,

I've done it both ways: front to back and back to front. Either way has worked for me. But YMMV.
I have zippers on my TD tonneau cover in three locations, at each side right at the seat back and one up the middle. In all cases, there is a flap sewn on one side and under the zipper. This protects the paint from the ravages of the zipper. I have plenty of scratches and chips on my paint, but none from the zipper.
No matter how I have tried, I always seem to get the odd pucker, despite having done the job on 5 or six restorations. So maybe the best solution is to get a local trimmer to at least assist in the fitting.
Lew3

I always start from the rear. Get the two back snaps in place and then start to move forward. Stop at the back of the seats. Then move to the front starting at the center and work out each side. Lastly secure the flap over the doors with a snap/stud just rear of the doors back from the hinges. The flap will tell you exactly where to put the stud if you don't have one already.
Christopher Couper

Reactivated thread.
Someone did send me a marked up set of pics showing the locations with figured dimensions for the scuttle LTD's as well as the others for a full tonneau installation, but I can't seem to find them. I saved them where I wouldn't lose them, wherever that is. Can this person or anyone else please assist? I'm seeking the most practical locations on the scuttle as well as the originals for the 1/2 tonneau, which will be used for my full tonneau installation. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I got a professional upholsterer to do my last two (1970 and 1992). Worked fine.

David
DavePro

I still have the Moss full tonneau in it's plastic wrapper which I've had for quite some time so I'll be using it, unless I find that for some reason it doesn't fit. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

@Peter: The MOSS covers do fit nicely. Just make sure you start in the center rear and work outwards first. Also make sure you take up a bit of extra tension on the outside LtD studs so there is little stress on the corners. Then move to the center front and work your way outwards pulling it taught and lining up with the body edges. Lastly do the door flaps.
Christopher Couper

On the back ( rear ) end, place the studs below the snaps. If they are inline, then the top snaps will not be able to snap and lay flat.
As long as you start in the center ( front or rear ) Do both these so the zipper is straight and the sides will fall into place. Pull tight and it will work out fine.
M Grogan

Thanks guys but I'm still seeking the best possible scuttle layout. I need some dimensioned locations for the LTD's. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Just read your thread and thought I'd add my 2 cents to the conversation and show what is the best tonneau install I've seen. I will be doing mine soon with Moss tonneau and I hope I can do as good a job as this.
Mike

Mike I

My guideline is, get a professional to do it. Certainly it's worth getting all the information you can to ensure the fit is original, but don't leave yourself wincing every time you look at wrinkles and creases (on the tonneau).

Good luck, David
D A Provan

This thread was discussed between 13/08/2016 and 26/05/2017

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG TD TF 1500 BBS now