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MG TD TF 1500 - Lifting tub off frame

I have all the pieces off the body and am ready to lift the tub off the frame. Last time, I took the firewall off first.

From the factory pictures it looks like they set the tub and firewall on as one piece. Anyone lifted it off this way? Factory had a special body lift. I have a lift that I can put above the tub and lift it off, just thinking on how best to support the tub.

Bruce Cunha

I have lifted one body (53 TD) with firewall attached on and off with my son-in-law. The first time I lifted the body (51 TD) off and on it was my with the son-in-law and my two sons. With two people it's heavy but doable if you have plenty of room around the car to maneuver.

Tim
TD12524
TD26711
Tim Burchfield

Bruce, I did my TF in one but make sure you brace the tub well. I braced from the front pillar to the rear pillar then across from rear pillar to rear pillar.
Don TF 4887.
Donald J Walker

Bruce not a problem. You and your brother should be able to handle it. Put the car back on the ground though. You’ll need it so you can get the tub over the hoop.
W A Chasser

I used steel perforated angle irons bolted from a hole in the wheel arch to somewhere on the scuttle- maybe the windscreen holes or under dash to keep from folding it. Engine hoist and ropes to lift. George
George Butz III

I used angle iron in the same positions, but I managed to lift it on my own (couldn’t do it now), so would be easy for two.
Dave H
Dave Hill

As said, before you take the tub off the chassis, make sure it's braced. Here's how I braced mine and it never flexed. It was this way during painting and the braces remained until it was bolted back on the chassis. PJ

PS, I used an engine crane to lift it.


PJ Jennings

Painting tub, PJ


PJ Jennings

I wouldn't worry about a little flexing. The body will need shimming when it is reinstalled. It is not a precision fit on the frame. Adding bracing to the inside of the tub is either overkill or I'm too lazy to do it. You can probably guess which one. lol.

Tim

Tim Burchfield

If the wood is in poor or unknown condition, then bracing is a must.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Before I had the lift, it was really a 3 person job. Two people lift the tub (with the bulk head attached) and a third person rolls the chassis out. It's rather akward to walk it off and leave the chassis is place. This one would not have had that option.

L E D LaVerne

I wasn't planning on removing the one on this TF but it was clear it was needed for the work to be done.

L E D LaVerne

I didn't install the lift until midway through my TD so it came off by hand.

L E D LaVerne

But it got used a lot after it did. Unlike an MGB roadster I never saw a need to brace the tub. Leaving the firewall attached until after you remove it makes it a little more rigid.

L E D LaVerne

Install everything you can before you put it back on the frame other wise it becomes a lot more of a two man operation.

L E D LaVerne

Sorry to deviate off topic but...I saw somewhere a restoration shop that installed the interior panels prior to putting the tub back on. Anyone else had any success with that? It seems it would be easier than maneuvering between the frame rails. I did install the wiring harness and firewall equipment before putting the tub back on. Made the process much easier.

Tim
Tim Burchfield

Bruce I have never worried about bracing to lift off or place a tub. They are designed to flex. Just have the doors latched and you’ll be fine. Leave the firewall in place but pull the windshield. It’s extra weight you don’t need to dead lift. You’ll need to unbolt the toe board and drop the steering column, light wiring and fuel line. The existing tub irons are sufficient even when the main frames are rotted away.

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

Thanks all. We have a lift and will be able to put 3" lift straps under the tub. Wood on the car looks good.

Because the lift straps could put some pressure on the upper edge of the tub, I am going to put in some bracing.

LaVern, you are really leaning me to look as a short car hoise. That has got to make things a lot easier.
Bruce Cunha

Getcha one like this Bruce...makes life a whole lot easier.

L E D LaVerne

PJ Jennings, love the color of your car. What color is it and is a base clear or single stage and who is the MFG. Thanks Mike
MJH Mike

PJ Jennings, love the color of your car. What color is it and is a base clear or single stage and who is the MFG. Thanks Mike


The color is 1968 Jaguar Regency Red. Saw a restored XKE in the color and fell in love with it. A local custom body shop mixed it up for me. I think it's made up with 5 colors and added pearl. I forgot the brand name of the paint, but I do remember it cost me $900.00 per gallon! How crazy is that. PJ

PJ Jennings

I'll add my 2 cents in here too. I took off the body with the firewall attached. Note that the firewall and body were painted assembled so definitely put it back that way. The "goop" that was applied on the firewall before being bolted to the body bucket was painted, so it's a good idea to get all of that put together and let it cure a bit before painting the assembly.



Christopher Couper

Removing the tub to rebuild it the tub MUST be braced. I had a TC tub fold and collapse in on itself while removing with a sling and an overhead crane. When installing, a two post lift is ideal, absent a lift a few people can carefully lift it in to place.


D. Sander

Chris. What do you recommend as the goop for the firewall to wood?

Figured bracing was no big deal, so I added it. The pipe in the picture goes under lifting straps that are at the front of the tub and under the wheel arches.

It will set on the forks of my lift device.

Bruce Cunha

It was a tar based compound FWIR. I would think any of the putty like caulk that you get in rolls from trailer supply places or maybe even the big box stores might work. I have not looked into this for decades.

It needs to be sort of putty like but then harden after a while so it does not distort when pressed. And of course paintable. Some of it will naturally squeeze out a bit but you should probably expect about 1/8" thickness when put together. Don't squeeze it all out.

Others probably have more recent experience with current products.
Christopher Couper

Here's what I used. Worked well. I just placed it near the outer edge a scrapped off the part that oozed out. Very easy to work with.

Tim

BTW, it didn't cause eye or skin irritation.
Timothy Burchfield

This is what I used. Easy to apply and should last years (according to 3M).

"Permanently pliable material is ready to use for seams, joints and gaps. Won’t shrink or become brittle, ensuring seals and greatly reducing rework.
Fast, no-mess application - thumbs into place and smooths with a finger. Can be painted immediately, maximizing shop time. High temperature resistance for a broader variety of uses"

Tim



Timothy Burchfield

Bruce I bought body caulk at Jerry’s that loads into a household caulking gun. It is silicone based and once it sets up you can simply pull the excess off or trim it with a exacting knife. Much easier to use and clean up than the old oilbase goop from the dark ages. I may even have enough in a partial tube that hasn’t set up yet after doing my firewall. Your welcome to use it as it will only go bad otherwise

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

This thread was discussed between 10/02/2018 and 16/02/2018

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