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MG TD TF 1500 - Lower Clutch Rod - revised

I've had a series of problems with an already-poorly-designed clutch linkage. Broken springs ... Three weeks ago, it was the upper strut separated from the rod and now the fine thread on the lower rod stripped when I tried to adjust it.

So as you can see, I cut off the spindly threaded portion and welded on a standard 5/16" threaded piece and added a little collar that fits nicely inside the flat portion of a drilled-out barrel pin.

Works great.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.

Gord Clark


Looks great and should last a long time. I'm sure your aware of the attached technical article on modifying the clutch linkage.
http://www.ttalk.info/ClutchLinkageFix.pdf
I had all kinds of problems with my clutch rods until I realized that my cars exhibited the problems high lighted by this article. After I modified my car, It sure improved my clutch operation and wear/ tear.
Richard Cameron

See also:
http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/Clutch_stop.htm
Insure that the clutch pedal stop before filing the webbing of the clutch lever as suggested in the Clutch Linkage Fix. there is no reason to do that if the clutch pedal stop bolt is in place. Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

Richard and others,

There have been a number of threads on clutch linkage. Below is a very sophisticated one using Rose joints by Declan Burns in Germany.

I have also made a set of drawings showing the use of Rose joints at both ends of both rods, but can't lay my hands on them right now.

In my opinion, the pedal arrangement, use of rod, and especially the dreaded pedal box, was a bad design. Anything else could have been better.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.

Gord Clark

Thanks Gord,
They are now actually rose jointed at both ends
Regards
Declan

Declan Burns

For anyone looking to make a clutch pedal stop...one easy way to use the center bolt for the rear springs. The round head is just the right size for the stop so all you need to do is cut the bolt down shorter and rethread. It saves time having to machine the stop and if you're rebuilding your springs, too, you're probably replacing the bolt so you can use one of the old ones.
J Cosin

... sequel to my rod issue.

It seems that when the original rod broke, and which I subsequently repaired, the sudden release put excessive stress on an already-old clutch (300,000+ miles), and it let go yesterday.

I have a spare clutch , and bought a friction disk and T/O bearing locally and I'm all set to make the change.

I'm 83 and am not looking forward to pulling the engine to change the clutch. Temperatures are forecast for the mid 30s - no, not looking forward to it all. But WTH, this is the time of year I most enjoy TF motoring. So I press on.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

J Cosin - with your permission, I would like to add your suggestion to the original write up of the clutch pedal article that I have. Please contact me at SUfuelpumps@donobi.net Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

Gord
300k miles was one heck of a clutch!!
Please take care of your back and get some help. Let us know how the clutch changes goes.

Best of luck

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Gord -

Congrats on 300,000 miles on your MG and on your clutch!!

You probably know ... You don't need to pull the engine to remove the gearbox.

Support the engine with a jack under the sump, then remove the gearbox through the cockpit.

If you install a new clutch cover / pressure plate, then check to see that it is assembled correctly. My new Moss pressure plate was not adjusted correctly so it caused my car to shake when the clutch engaged. Check the archives for a thread titled:
Clutch Judder Solved

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

This thread was discussed between 19/08/2016 and 27/08/2016

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