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MG TD TF 1500 - Main Bearing Caps

A couple of pics of the centre and front main bearing caps in place prior to removal for the chemical clean. I wanted to ensure that they went back in the correct place as they appeared to be very similar. The numerals 5 and 6 are clearly marked. 22716 is the front bearing cap. Cheers
Peter TD 5801




P Hehir

Peter

Always good to place indexing marks with a good centre pop prior to removing any of these components. Just got to be confident someone has not been there previously and not been as diligent in maintaining the original assembly format.

Ring me when you get the opportunity and I will communicate another issue that comes into play when you assemble your engine.

Graeme
G Evans

Thanks Graeme. Here is a shot of the rear Welch plug location at the end of the cam. I noticed you mentioned this on another thread. I'll call you when I have a moment later this evening. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

the caps are machined slightly off centre, put it in place minus the shell and if you feel any overlap at the joint it is wrong. Fit the correct way, check and then centre pop.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Ray would not the numbers indicate the correct placement of the centre and front bearing caps? Or is it that the numbers should read correctly when viewed from the front or viewed from the rear? If so wouldn't this be a simple test to ensure both correct orientation and location? Obviously this would only work if it could be guaranteed that the caps had never been separated from their housings or had not been substituted from another engine. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

The centre cap is different from the front and is machined for the thrust bearing. It is possible to fit it the wrong way round with disastrous effect as a friend found out.I do not trust other peoples stamp markings and always do a finger nail check. You cannot trust the original casting numbers as the parts would have been handled by people not machines as now.
Also remember that the thrust bearing has to be fitted to the crank. In my spare engine some idiot ground the crank to fit the bearing.Luckily modern bearings have a bit more meat than originals.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

I reckon your caps are around the wrong way
NORMALLY-
22715-front
22716-centre
both with the numbers to the front
Unless the tunnel's been done sometime in the past with them mixed up
Your engine man will measure them up and match it all up for you when it's pre assembly checking time
I'd take them bearings out and just sit the caps back on and leave the nuts well loose and get them all tubbed with the block
Don't go centre popping stuff, it's-------tacky
Can't wait to hear what Graeme's secret assembly tip is, don't forget to pass that on

willy
William Revit

Great info from Willy and Ray. Redi-Strip don't want the caps though, just the nude block, no caps, nuts or bolts anywhere. Still have the front and rear oil gallery slot heads to remove. Interesting that the rear one is made of brass. Why I wonder? So I'll do as the man asks. Your advice Willy to let the engine guy sort it out is what I'd planned. I'd thought I'd put the caps back on after the strip exactly where and in the orientation that they were, but you both make great sense in relation to who knows who has done what whenever. No need to centre pop anything that way. Graeme's suggestion has to do with fitting the pistons but I'll let him post the info should he choose to. I'll let the guy who installs the crankshaft, cam, rings and pistons do it his way. I'll supply all of the necessary components. I have a set of standard bearings in the hope that the guy who measured the crank is correct about the journals and that there is no sign of ovality. I just need the brass Welch plugs now which I'll also get the guy to fit using Stag. I'm also using the Fogarty mod on the rear main cap which should prevent oil leaks from the rear. It does on his blown YT. This is just a $60 fix. Thanks again Willy and Ray. Your posts are really appreciated. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

If you are doing the cam Welch plug, make sure the oil drain hole is clear. A blockage will let oil pressure build up and possibly blow the plug out. It is drain that is sometimes missed.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Yep Ray. The shot of the Welch plug housing is shown above. The block undergoes a series of cleaning processes that all up means he has the block for 2 weeks. All of the galleries will be cleaned, both oil and water. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

This thread was discussed on 13/05/2020

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