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MG TD TF 1500 - MG TD 53 Starter

Would anyone have an extra end plate for a TD Starter Motor?
I took this off my car 30 ears ago and decided to refurbish it as a spare. Can't remember why I replaced it - till I got to this bit.

Seems the end plate is split.
The numbers on the body are
Lucas - ?25022M 4 54
M35G 1 L31 12V

If there is a good one out there, I would be interested in obtaining it.

Thanks

Rod

Rod Jones

http://abingdonspares.com/product/commutator-end-plate-td-tf-2/
George Butz III

Thanks for that George.
Everywhere I looked for it it said NA.
Guess I did not look at Abingdon Dur.... :)

Rod
Rod Jones

OK
Need a heads up on what is going on?
I have removed the starter business end to enable me to replace the bushing in the end plate.
However the starter dog does not slid off the shaft.
I have removed H,J,L,M,N and P also the keyed thrust plate [not mentioned] the last thing on the end of the spring.
At this point the starter dog should slide off.
If I understand it right.
However it seems there is a spreading of the shaft where the keyed thrust plate contacts the step in the shaft. This is large enough to prevent the dog from sliding off.
So do I take a small file and remove this ridge to allow the dog to come off. It is not a clip or a purpose retainer that I can see.
So before I do this. - just wanted to know if anyone else had found this and what is the correct corrective action.

Thanks

Rod


Rod Jones

I have taken several off Rod...I only remove H, J, K and the lock washer behind them which isn't lettered. Then with some working back and forth as well as twisting the dog assembly usually comes right off.
L E D LaVerne

Strange to say Laverne, the keyed plate at the back of this apparatus can rotate and then the splines don't line up and it wont come off. Add to that even with all this out of the way. There seems to be a large burr on the end of the shaft where this keyed plate site and the dog will not go past it. It make a pretty slid clunk when it hits it. My only thought was to take a file at it and remove the burr so it can come off. Without that, I cannot get the front plate off to replace the worn bushing. Tough to photo but this is the problem

I think I can remove it with a file if carful and the dog should just slid off. Just need to know if there is another way I am missing?
Rod


Rod Jones

Problem solved.
As no better guidance was forth coming - I took a file and carefully removed the burr that had formed on the shaft and prevented the starter dog from being removed.
This solved the issue and I can now remove the end plate and change the bushing.
In 54 years of owning a TD this is the first time I have had to dissasemble a starter motor. Good learning curve.

Next will be the spare Dynamo.

Rod


Rod Jones

If you come up empty, I may have one here. Yours for shipping assuming I can find it.
Steve Simmons

hanks Steve for the kind offer I have one on the way form Abingdon Spares.

Rod
Rod Jones

Well this turned out to be a longer job then I anticipated.
Following the discovery of the broken brush end plate, I sourced one from Abingdon Spares {thanks George} however when it came I noted the static brushes were in the wrong holders. This is a problem, as the field winding brushed are on different length insulated wires and therefor won't reach the empty holders as is. Changing the static holders would require un-riveting all the holders on the plate and moving them back 90 degrees. As I do not have the tools to do that elected to unsolder the field wires and re solder 180 degrees round, to get the lead lengths correct for the end plate.

Painted the body and end plates and reassembled.

Tested on jumper cables and find the darn thing now run backwards. Another lesson learned. Not all parts are equal new or not. Moss Site Says they are N/A. To re rivet the Abingdon Spares one would possibly be the answer to get this to work. Did not think it would be an issue. Thankfully LaVerne has said he will send me a correct end plate so wont have to investigate the rivet solution.

I only post this incase anyone wants to renovate their Started and to save some heartache when finding parts.

Brush holder orientation matters.

Rod.


Rod Jones

This shows the problem

Rod Jones

Well thanks to LaVerne - who sent me a correctly orientated end plate. I now have a starter that runs the right way round. The dog spins into the started ring just fine. I had to reverse the field windings I had previously moved and it all went together correctly. New shaft bushes as well.
I will buy some steel hollow end rivets and fix the Abingdon Spares one. As it is all correct except for the brush orientation. Should not be that difficult. The point to note is, the two field brush holders need to be insulated from the frame.

Rod.


Rod Jones

This thread was discussed between 30/04/2018 and 21/05/2018

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