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MG TD TF 1500 - oil seal- crank front

I'm about to procure a new oil seal to grace the snout of our new billet steel crank. I measured the cam cover cavity (which wasn't really precision cut) and pulley, then decided the dimensions 36mm ID x 46mm OD x 7mm thickness would do just fine. I just ran across the seal that came out and it is 36 x 47 x 7. As they are urethane coated on the OD (metal clad oil seals) there is a tiny bit of tolerance, but the old seal is quite deformed, so I don't know if that occured when the pan was tightened up or during removal.

Anyone have a handle on those most appropriate dimensions?
JRN JIM

I used this one...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNJ35S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From Len's recommendation.

Blair
Blair Weiss

I can't help you with the dimensions as I had just fitted one. But unless you had a perfectly smooth crank pulley for the seal to ride on , I strongly recommend speedy sleeve. My first seal failed to seal on the rough pulley surface after the speedy sleeve, not a drop.
Cheers, Keith

K. McKenzie

Speedy sleeve fitted

K. McKenzie

With a new billet crank I had no problem with the seal, my crank was perfect when I got it and the seal has not leaked in the last 7 years.
T Maine

1988 volvo cam seal.
gates pn ks 13945.national # 1172, fel pro tcs45725. it fits better
than a moss seal, & has a double lip seal, not a single lip seal. No
machine work required.
Len Fanelli

Thanks guys,
Blair & Len- it appears those seals are 35mm x 37mm x 7mm. I have no doubt they fit and will work, but I ordered a National 710343 36x46x9 from Amazon and also a Chinese 36x46x7 from ebay, but the latter may not arrive before the engine gets buttoned up. I don't like how tight the 36x47x7 fit, but it never gave me a problem.

Keith & Tom,
My crank is brand new, but of course, the seal is to the pulley and not the crank. The pulley will either be the aluminum pulley for the existing blower (and it hasn't leaked at all), or it'll be a new pulley machined to speed up which ever blower goes on this 1466cc engine.
JRN JIM

For what it's worth, I ordered a 36x47x7 also. The cam cover opening measures 46mm across, but it didnt look right, and that's because it isn't a true semicircle. The measurement of 46mm is not the real inside diameter.

The pan and cover are not split on the centerline of the crank. The bottom of the block is a fraction of an inch below the centerline, so there's more than 180 degrees of an arc on the cover hole.

The OD measurements of the oil seals are a nominal figure, they're actually larger for a press fit, so the 46mm OD might be the best one anyway. Can't wait to see what fits best.

My ID calipers are at the shop so I'm just winging it with my vernier calipers in front of the TV at home.
JRN JIM

I bought a seal from a T series supplier but after fitting there was a serious leak. The supplier sent me a replacement but that was just as bad. I was so fed up with dropping the sump that I considered machining the timing chain cover and sump so I could tap in a new seal.I raised this on the forum and others had considered doing this. Finally I did what I should have done at the start and measured the stub on the pulley. I had polished this with very fine emery paper but not so much as to affect the diameter. I found the diameter to be between 35 and 36 m/m so purchased a 35 m/m one from BSL Brammer for £2.50 This has totally cured the leak. I would advise giving the pulley stub a polish and the carefully measuring the diameter before purchasing a "standard" seal.

Jan T
J Targosz

Jim you might search the archives. A few owners assembled the engine and used a cutter attached to the crank and cut a perfect circle into the mated timing cover and sump removing the outside cupped flange. Gave a sort of pressed in seal that was perfectly centered on the crank pulley.
MG LaVerne

I've run the Moss seal with good results. I don't think the quality of the seal is as important as locating it properly. The grooves are not designed to hold a modern type seal, and therefore are not perfectly round or centered. There was no reason for them to be. But with a modern rubber lip seal, you need to ensure that the seal sits perfectly centered and plumb over the crank pulley. It's a bit of patience, and a bit of luck.
Steve S

Ximena,

I have the cutter coming back to me...it rides on the crank and cuts a hole in the sump and timing chain that is perfectly centered around the crank. If interested send me an email.

Gene
Gene Gillam

Thanks for the input, one and all!

Gene,
Thanks flor the offer, but I'll pass. I stuck that 36x47x7 seal in 15 years ago, but it only saw a few years of running, and I don't recall leaks ever being an issue (just head gaskets leak). I believe that seal came from Moss back then. Another one like it will work, for all practical purposes- I just want to explore options ahead of time, rather than hold up assembly waiting for alternate seals to arrive in the mail. You know that feeling? I can always stuff some old graphite rope packing and bubble gum in if push comes to shove!
JRN JIM

This thread was discussed between 22/03/2015 and 24/03/2015

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